After a long hiatus, I’m back on my superhero game project. I’ve downloaded and printed Power Legion and will make up some character cards this week. In the meantime, I have been doing some odds and sods modelling tasks.I broke out my dremel for the fi…
Posts Tagged ‘28mm’
After accidentally buying lots of Wild West figures, terrain and buildings for Malifaux, the inevitable has happened and I have expanded into the Dead Man’s Hand Wild West game.I know it’s been out for several years already, but this is my first game o…
1. Forces. Siły.
2. The game. Gra.
3. Summary. Podsumowanie.
4. Links. Linki.
The Eureka tachanka itself (the wagon, that is) comes together fairly easily with a bit of patience and some test fitting. The main body is a single piece, which I had to bend very slightly to straighten as the back end had been pushed very slightly downward during shipping. The rear springs and axle are … Continue reading Eureka’s Tachanka, Part Two →
1. Forces. Siły.
2. Orders. Rozkazy.
3. The game. Gra.
4. Summary. Podsumowanie.
5. Links. Linki.
This Thursday’s game night saw me blooding my 8th Army Perry Miniatures Brits against Ed Leland’s Warlord Japanese in a no holds barred bungle in the jungle cage fight using Too Fat Lardie’s Chain of Command rules. Sure, I painted my figures for desert, but not unlike their real-life counterparts, the exigencies of the conflict mandated their fighting in an entirely different theatre of war! This was also Ed’s first use of the Japanese so this was a debut for both sides.
We opted to play a patrol scenario and my additional forces amounted to an adjutant to keep forces moving onto the board and a medium machine-gun for some extra destructive effect. Ed chose “ruse” to allow him to deploy farther from his jump-off markers. In the Patrol Phase, my thought was to pin down his patrol markers as quickly as possible given his ability to deploy a greater distance away and to hopefully limit his flexibility a bit. As it turned out, we essentially ended up having the trail running through the area as the boundary separating the two forces.
The completed 8 point army.When I got back into SAGA late last year (or rather go into it in the first place) I, obviously, needed some miniatures. Initially, I just used what I had available, which was quite a bit actually. The core of my …
UMPIRING/PROWADZENIE GRY:Bill Gilchrist
1. Forces. Siły.
2. The Game. Gra.
3. Summary. Podsumowanie.
4. Links. Linki.
About ten days ago I made an order to Eureka USA for a few things, most importantly their Russian three horse Tachanka/crew in cap. What the heck, you ask, is a tachanka (also found spelled “tchanka”)? It’s a Russian vehicle developed during the Great War and used, in various forms, right through the Second World … Continue reading Eureka’s Tachanka, Part One →
Much of the book is written in an abbreviated third person style, with references to “the father” and “the son” or to “the man” and “the boy.”
The father struggles to protect his son from the constant threats of attack, exposure, and starvation. In the face of these obstacles, the man repeatedly reassures the boy that they are “the good guys” who are “carrying the fire”. On their journey, the pair scrounge for food, evade roving bands, and contend with many horrors. An old man they discover on the road acts as seer for them and says that the boy has a glow about him – inferring that he is blessed. As the story moves forward the father feels he has to do things that are insensitive if not inhumane in order to keep his son safe. This progresses to the point where the reader is left with the impression that The Father is perhaps no longer ‘carrying the fire’. But one can only sympathize with his situation and we are forced to ask ourselves, ‘If the world ran down, and chaos reigned, how far would we go to keep the ones we love safe?’
It seems I’m on a bit of a Pulp Adventure kick lately. No idea why. I’m just going to settle in and roll with it.This is ‘Johnny Turquoise’, a Cuban-born hitman from Florida. Johnny fancies himself quite a snappy dresser and an even bette…
Last Sunday (15 March) got us another bash at using Chain of Command/Mud & Blood (I’ve taken to calling it “Chain of Mud”) for Russian Civil War adventures. I umpired the game for Mike, who has played RCW previously a number of times and once with the current Chain of Mud rules, and his brother … Continue reading The Assault on St. Vodkanovich Monastery →
I ran a Strange Aeons scenario for some of the Conscript lads last week. I based the game on a seemingly derelict whaling ship. The title of the adventure was: ‘The Mysterious Occurrences & Strange Events on the Whaling Ship Pequodrangle’ T…
Another lot of my excellent WW2 28mm German SS from pre warlord era Bolt Action Miniatures. This lot contains a Command section with LMG team, radio man, 2 medics and officer, 8 miniatures plus an OOP all metal 250/3 Nue Command Halftr…
Another lot of my excellent WW2 28mm German SS from pre warlord era Bolt Action Miniatures. This lot contains a rifle section with LMG team , 5 miniatures plus an OOP German 234 Puma, resin and metal model.$70 for the lot plus $15 S & H in t…
Another lot of my excellent WW2 28mm German SS from pre warlord era Bolt Action Miniatures. This lot contains a rifle section with LMG team and panzerfaust, 5 miniatures plus an OOP and awesome on awesome 233 armored car with crew.Price is $70 pl…
You can find plish version here
Please notice that this is not a guide for professionals who make outstanding scenic bases. It’s rather for wargamers who are looking for some tips and inspirations to make good looking simple bases for their vast armies. I hope that at least some of you will find that article to be interesting and useful.
According to the story we designed for Knights of Drakenborg army their seat is located on the broad highlands so I tried to represent that theme on the army’s bases. My first principle was to make something different from usual simple grey stones but still cohesive and fitting the theme of the army. On the second hand I knew that I need to make at least 60 bases and I cannot spend much time on every single one of them.
- 20 mm bases and masking tape (1)
- dried broccoli (2)
- fine-grained stones (3)
- epoxy putty: green stuff or miliput (4)
- bark (5)
- cyanoacrylate glue
- PVA glue
- acrylic paints (Games Workshop, Privateer, Vallejo)
- pigments in 3 different colors
- scissors, modeling knife, brushes
2. Next stage is more complicated. Use aforementioned materials and try to make something on the bases. It should be more interesting than “glue some sand on the base” but also you need to remember that you should not overdo it. It’s the miniature itself which is the main actor on the table and you have at least 20 miniatures and bases to make. Take a look at the photos. I present some obvious applications and techniques like imitating stone with bark or using epoxy putty to make simple tile patterns (use a stone to make some texture in that case). I really like to use dried broccoli as it really good imitates old, knock down trees. It takes about 2-3 weeks to prepare a broccoli but the effect is worth it.
3. I cover everything with black primer. Next I drybrushed light grey on every base to make some preshading.
5. I make shading using separate layers of different diluted washes: brown, red and purple (Seraphim Sephia, Ogryn Flesh, Leviathan Purple). In the crevices I apply mix of aforementioned washes and black paint.
7. The final highlight is a pure white paint drybrushed very lightly on the stones.
8. You can achieve interesting effect by glazing cold tones (blue for example) to the stones/tiles.
9. Optionally you can also paint some cracks on the larger stones or tiles.
In my opinion stones are properly painted after finishing this stage. There is always a place for improvements but remember that we have at least 20 bases to paint. In that case I had about 50. I will use dry pigments in next stages so my precious paintjob would not be cost-effective in the end.
Optionally you can add more different shades to the soil. I prefer to use thin layers of dark green, in that case – Castellan Green.
12. At that moment I usually attach painted miniatures to the bases. In case of plastic models I simply use cyanoacrylate glue. It’s not uncommon for me to pin every model to make the connection more durable. In case of metal model pining is a must.
There is often a problem with excess of the glue which make shiny spots on the finished base. Use matt varnish to get rid of it. You can also glue some static grass or tuft in that spots.
I use two methods of applying pigments. In case of making bases for gaming I apply the pigments mixed with water and then after they dry I use small drops of isopropanol or white spirit to harden everything. After the isopropanol is fully evaporated I paint the sides of the bases in black and then using airbrush I cover everything with varnish.
Another technique is to apply the pigments directly from the jar. Once again I use several different colors but I don’t use anything to harden the pigment. That technique makes the models look more natural but it is obvious that its rather for those miniatures that are place in the cabinet.
We are also there. If you like this tutorial share it with your friends.
Till the next time.
Gotowe podstawki mają imitować łąki pokrywające wyżynne tereny otaczające zamek Drakenborg. Kolorystyka podstawek miała z założenia odbiegać od standardowej szarości kamieni, a jednocześnie być dość jednolita. Drugim założeniem była masowość produkcji. Chciałem w prosty i szybki sposób uzyskać dużą ilość podstawek o zbliżonym wyglądzie wiedząc, że będę musiał go skopiować ok. 100 razy – tak na dobry początek.
Zacznijmy od listy materiałów, które wykorzystałem w tym projekcie:
- podstawki o bokach 20mm oraz taśma malarska (1)
- wysuszone łodygi brokuła (2)
- drobne kamyki (3)
- sprasowana, wyschnięta i połamana masa samoutwardzalna (4)
- kora drzewa (5)
- klej do drewna
- klej cyjanoakrylowy
- farby akrylowe (Games Workshop, Privateer, Vallejo)
- pigmenty w 3 kolorach
- nożyk i pędzle
10. Części podstawki imitujące ziemię pomalowałem za pomocą ciemnego brązu, rozjaśniłem brązem ziemistym (Terra Earth – Vallejo) oraz kolorem żółto-brązowym (Balor Brown). Jeżeli posiadacie i w następnych krokach zamierzacie użyć pigmentów to można “przesadzić” z ostatnim rozjaśnieniem i użyć do niego koloru “kościanego” (Ushabti Bone lub Ivory od P3 etc).
Opcjonalnie ziemię można barwić na inne kolory. Ja osobiście lubię nadać jej zielonego odcieniu za pomocą rozcieńczonej farby Castellan Green.
11. Ostatnim elementem do pomalowania jest drewno. Maluję je również brązami, z tym że bazę stanowi inny odcień niż użyty do ziemi. Tutaj również jest wiele miejsca do wykazania się, ale tak jak napisałem wcześniej pigment oraz liczba podstawek ukryje niedoskonałości pod warstwą iluzji wysokiego poziomu.
Używam dwóch metod aplikacji pigmentów i w zależności od oczekiwanego efektu wykorzystuje je naprzemiennie.
Pierwsza z nich polega na nałożeniu pigmentu w postaci płynnej, wymieszanego z wodą. Po wyschnięciu utwardzam pigment izopropanolem aplikowanym za pomocą pipety. Zwykle używam tej techniki, gdy muszę wykończyć wiele podstawek na figurki, które posłużą do grania tak jak w tym przypadku. Po nałożeniu pigmentów maluję ranty podstawek na czarno i za pomocą aerografu pokrywam figurki lakierem.
Opcjonalna druga metoda to wcieranie suchych pigmentów bez ich mieszania z wodą. W tym przypadku również można pigment utwardzić lecz dla figurek, które będą stały na półce lepiej jest tego nie robić. Nieutwardzony pigment wygląda wg mnie zdecydowanie lepiej, tj. bardziej naturalnie.
Do tego projektu użyłem dwóch trawek elektrostatycznych różniących się barwą i długością oraz rozdrobnionej gąbki. Miejscami doklejałem nasiona brzozy oraz suszone oregano. Z pewnością można by to zrobić ładniej/bardziej naturalnie, lecz końcowy efekt jest wystarczający.
Jak zawsze dobrym rozwiązaniem jest bazowanie na zdjęciach natury. Polecam też zapoznanie się z galerią modelarza Honour Guard, który wg mnie najlepiej ze znanych mi artystów figurkowych oddaje roślinność na podstawkach. Możecie zobaczyć jego galerię na “jedynym słusznym” portalu społecznościowym.
After many months I have finally finished off these WW1 British troops from Wargames Foundry. They sat undercoated for a long time waiting for that next stage in life. After they were painted they then had to wait again, this time for the bas…
This entry is both my entry for the Anti-Hero round and my Curtgeld. I did quite a bit of research on this one. First off was just making sure I had a good definition for anti-hero. Once I had that it was a matter of researching the available mod…
UMPIRING/PROWADZENIE GRY: Paul O’Sullivan
1. Forces. Siły.
2 x Landskhnecht Pike
2 x Arquebusiers
2 x Medium Artillery
2 x French Pike
3 x Arquebusiers
2 x Medium Artillery
2. The game. Gra.
3. Links. Linki.
Michael’s relation on his blog:
Relacja Michaela na jego blogu:
Last night’s game session pitted the fanatical H+ Trans-human Revolutionary Front against New Hong Kong’s finest. The main Objective was Radio Free Babylon’s broadcast tower, (“All the righteous Dubs and Dangerous Data they don’t want you to hear.”) with H+ attempting to physically hack the transmitter and broadcast their “Quantum Leap” manifesto. The NKPD – … Continue reading →
These four figures are to bolster our ‘Strange Aeons’ and pulp adventure games. I thought it would be good to get some more ‘common men’ done up to help to flesh-out the ranks. Three of these are from Footsore Miniatures’ Irish War of Independenc…
While I may be back Gaming the painting is running at full tilt at Brigantes with lots of items that are needed for Salute by various Manufacturers.So I have today updated the Brigantes Studio Blog with my latest workso if Steampunk – sci fi is yo…