Posts Tagged ‘Painting’

Poltava part 2 – the wargame

Posted on November 18th, 2017 under , , , , , . Posted by

A late ‘battle shot’ with the Swedes through the redoubt lineJon is very experienced at running large games as he owned and managed a wargaming centre on Crete for several years.The Swedes columns lined up to storm the redoubt line before the battle co…

CONVERSION CHART: CITADEL TO APPLE BARREL

Posted on November 17th, 2017 under , , . Posted by

Paint Conversion Chart

On the Painting Desk 21

Posted on November 17th, 2017 under . Posted by

The newest friday video of the stuff currently on my workbench.The secret project has been finished, so expect that one probably tuesday or wednesday to appear.Other things that will be finished hopefully this week are the Romans, and I`m going to tack…

League of Augsburg game Crisis 2017

Posted on November 16th, 2017 under , , , , . Posted by

We had decided well in advance that our Crisis game for 2017 would be modest in size but pretty. There was no need to try and take a massive game by car to Antwerp as we already knew that Jon Sutherland would be running his monster Poltava game adjacen…

Painted – Undead Zombie Regiment

Posted on November 15th, 2017 under , , , , , . Posted by

​This Zombie Regiment is composed of 20 plastic Mantic Zombies for my Undead Army. The unit is magnetized with 1/8″ x 1/32″ magnets that I […]

The post Painted – Undead Zombie Regiment appeared first on Lost Dice.

Shadow War Campaign – The Tau and the Orks

Posted on November 15th, 2017 under , , , , , . Posted by

What with birthdays and trips to Nottingham it’s been a while since I last posted an update on my Shadow War project, sorry about that. But I haven’t been idle and have finished my last two Kill-Teams.

The Tau are a bit of a cheat. When I started this project, the plan was not to buy any new models as I had plenty of old ones that deserved painting. I do actually have a Tau Fire Warrior squad but, not knowing much about Tau, I hadn’t realised that the Tau in Shadow War are actually Pathfinders not Fire Warriors. I could have used my Fire Warriors to put together a team, as they do have the option for Pulse Carbines which Pathfinders use, but I wouldn’t have had any of the right Special Weapons or Drones. Then, at small local Wargames show Valhalla, I stumbled across a box of Pathfinders for only £16 which seemed like a bargain, so I snapped them up.

The Pathfinders feature the full range of shooting options, including an Ion Rifle and a Rail Rifle and are accompanied by both a Recon Drone and a Pulse Accelerator drone. I even made use of my Fire Warrior box by pinching a hand with a pulse pistol for my Shas’ui. I reasoned that being the only member of the squad even approaching competent in close combat, it made sense to give him a bit of an edge and he didn’t sacrifice much range to do it.

The Tau were spray undercoated with Army Painter Wolf Grey and highlighted in Vallejo Wolf Grey (clearly they have much lighter coloured wolves in Vallejo’s part of the world). The highlights actually came out much stronger than I intended, but I like the effect. I think it gives them a cartoonish feel, which suits their slightly Anime inspired design. The black areas were Vallejo German Grey, highlighted with Dark Grey while the skin of the Shas’ui was Vallejo neutral grey higlighted with light grey. Given they amount of blue I was using I didn’t want to give them blue skin and I saw no reason why Tau shouldn’t have varied skin colours like humans.

I rather like how these have come out and it has me tempted to put together a larger Tau force for Warhammer 40,000. The start collecting box seems like pretty good value.

Anyway, now we turn to almost the principal reason for this project, the Orks.

I have been a 40K Ork collector longer than anything else and what really got me into them were Kev Adams incredibly characterful sculpts from Warhammer 40,000 1st and early 2nd edition. Back then, Ork background was based around the six major Ork clans. Space Marines had their chapters, Eldar their Craftworlds, Imperial Guard their regiments and Orks their clans. Virtually all the models were clan specific and had huge amounts of personality. The Orks were also much lighter in tone than the rest of the 40K Universe, with lots of daft humour that was well captured in the models.

I collected Orks through late 1st and early 2nd edition by which time Kev Adams had left Games Workshop. GW initially got other sculptors, mostly Alan and Michael Perry and Gary Morley, to imitate Kev Adams style, with varying degrees of success, until Brian Nelson came along and pretty much redefined the look of GW Orks, making them bigger, meaner and more bestial. I actually like Brian Nelson’s style, but they never had the same level of personality as the Kev Adams sculpts. Plus, in 3rd edition 40K GW all but dropped the clan concept and my interest in Orks waned.

Recently, the clan concept has been sneaking its way back in and found it’s way into Shadow War by defining the Skills that Ork Kill-Teams can take, in much the same way as the Space Marine chapters and the Imperial Guard regiments. This seemed like the perfect time to dig out my old models and give them the attention they so richly deserved.

For my clan choice I went with Blood Axes, sneaky gits who copy humans and even wear camouflage (though they don’t really know what it’s for and like to use bright colours). I picked them mostly because I had some models I wanted to use but their sneaky approach to warfare perfectly suits Shadow War.

These three Youths are a mix of metal and plastic. Back in the early 90s, Games Workshop were really into using seperate plastic arms on their metal models to give you more posing options. The two Orks on the left are of this type, metal models with plastic arms and weapons. The one on the left is an offical Blood Axe Ork boy, while the one in the centre is, technically a mad boy, though I thought his little shorts and tongue hanging out gave him a sort of boyish enthusiasm appropriate for a Yoof. The Ork on the right is entirely plastic, from the Space Orks boxed set, one of several multi-part plastic sets from the early 1990s which, in retrospect, feel somewhat ahead of their time. It was only after I got them altogether that I realised they were wearing matching hats.

For the black areas I stuck with my German Grey/Dark Grey combination. For the Green uniforms I used Vallejo Yellow Olive Highlighted with Russian Uniform WW2. The camouflage areas are old GW bubonic brown with Prussian blue stripes. The Ork skin is Vallejo Goblin Green with a GW Thraka Green wash and highlighted in Vallejo Golden Olive. Initially thought this would be too light, but I actually like how it has come out.

The two Ork boyz are actually Blood Axe Kommandoes and are not Kev Adams sculpts, but are by Alan Perry. I like them anyway and I think they’re slightly serious, no funny business, look is quite appropriate for two profeshunals. I used them same colour combinations as for the Yoofs, but with more emphasis on the camouflage patterns, which seemed only appropriate for Kommando fatigues.

The Orks on the left and right are Spanner boyz, specialists with Heavy Weapons. They are both originally Mek Boys, but their techie look seemed appropriate for Spanners. The one on the left has a Big Shooter. The one on the right presented me with a problem. He is clearly carrying a Flamer, but that isn’t an option for Orks. I initially thought of counting it as a Rokkit Launcha, but that felt silly and there was no way I was leaving that lovely old model out, so I decided to house rule it and let him have his flamer. I doubt it will unbalance the whole campaign and he probably stole it from an Imperial Guardsman, which is appropriate for the Blood Axes.

The Ork in the middle is technically another Boy, but the model is a Blood Axe Nob, so I decided to make him Sergeant Bogrot’s second-in-command and equip him with a bus chopper to show his superior Rank. He is clearly very pleased with himself.

Finally we have Sergeant Bogrot, my favourite Ork in the team and one of my favourite models of all time. Originally and Blood Axe Warboss, he has been slightly demoted for the campaign, but his Big Choppa should stand him in good stead. I felt I had no choice but to paint his big coat in black, but I stuck to the Team colours on his hat and his coat cuffs.

I am really pleased with the painting on both of these squads and, as soon as possible, I will pit them against one another and post the results. Watch this space.

Painted – ​ Undead Zombie Regiment

Posted on November 15th, 2017 under , , , , , , . Posted by

​This Zombie Regiment is composed of 20 plastic Mantic Zombies for my Undead Army. The unit is magnetized with 1/8″ x 1/32″ magnets that I […]

The post Painted – ​ Undead Zombie Regiment appeared first on Lost Dice.

Exhibit & Tutorial: It’s crushing time! Czas coś zgnieść!

Posted on November 14th, 2017 under , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Posted by

Night Goblins Shaman & Warboos Foot of Gork base
While preparing for Hussar 2017 I got an idea for a very funny base for my Night Goblins (Moonclan Grots) Shaman, Warboss and a certain headless unfortunate – Foot of Gork! Below you will also find a short tutorial for making this base and if you’re curious how I made bases for those night goblins you can find a separate tutorial here.
It’s crushing time! =)

Przygotowując się na Hussara 2017 wpadłem na pomysł zabawnej podstawki dla mojego Szamana i Duża Szef Nocnych Goblinów (Moonclan Grots) oraz pewnego bezgłowego nieszczęśnika – Stopa Gorka! Na końcu posta znajdziecie również krótki poradnik robienia tej podstawki, a jeśli chcecie wiedzieć jak zrobiłem podstawki samym  goblinom to zapraszam tutaj.
Czas coś zgnieść! =)

Night Goblins Shaman & Warboos Foot of Gork baseNight Goblins Shaman & Warboos Foot of Gork base
Night Goblins Shaman & Warboos Foot of Gork base
Night Goblins Shaman & Warboos Foot of Gork base
Night Goblins Shaman & Warboos Foot of Gork base

Tutorial / Poradnik
Paint a base dark brown and draw a foot like on the photo below. Pomaluj podstawkę ciemnym brązowym, a następnie narysuj na niej stopę, jak na zdjęciu poniżej.

Night Goblins Foot of Gork base tutorial

The effect can be very different depending on what you want your foot to look like. I used the cracle effect on the inside of the foot (after using the cracle effect I let it dry and then painted it with a thin coat of lighter brown – the cracles will appear in the direction of your brush strokes). To finish the base you only need to glue sand and grass around the foot and between toes.

Końcowy efekt może być dowolny, zaś ja wykorzystałem efekt spękania na wnętrzu stopy (po nałożeniu i wyschnięciu efektu spękania należy go pomalować cienką warstwą jaśniejszej farby – spękania pojawią się zgodnie z ruchami pędzla). By dokończyć podstawkę wystarczy przykleić wokół stopy i między palcami piasek oraz trawkę.
Night Goblins Foot of Gork base tutorial

Heavy Weapon

Posted on November 13th, 2017 under , , . Posted by

I treated myself to a Seleucid war elephant, I intend to get two eventually but wanted to get started on the first model, I have no actual plan yet for the building of the new army apart from having to wait for the new cavalry. I do have an idea to get…

Heavy Weapon

Posted on November 13th, 2017 under , , . Posted by

I treated myself to a Seleucid war elephant, I intend to get two eventually but wanted to get started on the first model, I have no actual plan yet for the building of the new army apart from having to wait for the new cavalry. I do have an idea to get…

Poltava Part 1 – taster of an epic

Posted on November 12th, 2017 under , , , , . Posted by

This game was a year in the making and is the result of the hard work of Jon and Diane Sutherland who created it as a commission for a private collector.I have been intimately involved with the development as all of the figures used are Warfare Miniatu…

Poltava Part 1 – taster of an epic

Posted on November 12th, 2017 under , , , , . Posted by

This game was a year in the making and is the result of the hard work of Jon and Diane Sutherland who created it as a commission for a private collector.I have been intimately involved with the development as all of the figures used are Warfare Miniatu…

Buildings and walls

Posted on November 11th, 2017 under , , , , , . Posted by

In late October, I attended the model railway swap-meet that happens twice a year. There is a lot of rolling stock here but I was specifically interested in picking up a few extra buildings (ideally built and at a discount) for Gotham.Two fellows sold …

Posted a Video on using oils to paint flesh on figures.

Posted on November 10th, 2017 under , , . Posted by

I posted a short video on a technique I found on using oil paints to paint flesh on figures.  Check it out.Using Oils to paint flesh

On the Painting Desk 20

Posted on November 10th, 2017 under . Posted by

Okay, from now on I`m going to be posting this on fridays instead of saturdays I think… busy weekends.A fresh week, and some progress was made (well, more then some if you follow my blog).  For the coming week, I think I`ll be pushing to get the…

Exhibit & CMON: Ogroid Thaumaturge of Tzeentch – Diorg’O the Dice Master

Posted on November 10th, 2017 under , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Posted by

Ogroid Thaumaturge of Tzeentch

Only few survived or at least retained their mind to tell about him, but there is no doubt that Diorg’O the Dice Master (Ogroid Thaumaturge of Tzeentch from Warhammer Quest: Silver Tower) is a truly powerful opponent. He combines the monstrous and wild power of the beast with impressive occult magic. His skin is covered with the signs of eldritch energy, that move in the rhythm of the beastly muscles. Ogroid’s frightening prowess in combat is fueled by his rage, so that he can tear enemies apart with his bare hands or pierce them with his horns. Diorg’O’s magical abilities are even more “disturbing” as he hurls flaming explosions that cover his victims in the vapors from which demonic shapes emerge.. Diorg’O is also highly valued by the Lord of Change, who gave him the K-six as a reward for battles won – a powerful artifact capable of changing the fate of every fight..
Painting Diorg’O was a real challenge for me (especially as far as time is concerned). I’m not sure if it is noticeable enough in the photos below, but by painting the Ogroid I not only gave him demonic muscles, but the top and the center of his back has lighter colours to reflect Diorg’O alignment to the light source and to emphasize the tense muscles of his shoulders. I also wanted a pretty big contrast, while still maintaining a smooth transition of colours. As suggested, I only added a few runes to the base, not wanting it to have too much focus. I hope that the base speaks more about the Ogroid’s demonic nature and contrasts with the clean painting of this beast.
I won’t hide that I’ve tried to paint the best (or at least the most refined) Ogroid Thaumaturge of Tzeentch at this moment, but I will leave his evaluation to you and I warmly encourage you to vote for him on CoolMiniOrNot.com =)

Niewielu przeżyło lub chociaż zachowało resztki rozumu, by móc o nim opowiedzieć, jednak nie ulega wątpliwości, że Mistrz Kości Diorg’O (Ogroid Thaumaturge Tzeentcha Warhammer Quest Silver Tower ) to wyjątkowo potężny przeciwnik. Łączy on bowiem potworną i dziką siłę bestii z imponującymi mocami okultystycznymi. Jego skóra pokryta jest przy tym znakami tajemnej energii, które poruszają się w rytm napinanych przez bestię muskuł. Przerażająca skuteczność Ogroida w walce podsycana jest wściekłością, dzięki czemu gołymi rękami rozrywa wrogów lub przebija ich swymi rogami.  Jednak to dopiero magiczne zdolności Diorg’O są najbardziej “niepokojące”.  Rzucane przez Taumaturga płomienne wybuchy spowijają ofiary w skrzących oparach, z których wynurzają się demoniczne kształty.. Diorg’O cieszy się również wielką łaską Pana Zmian, który w nagrodę za wygrane przez niego bitwy ofiarował Ogroidowi K-szóstkę – potężny artefakt zdolny zmienić losy każdej potyczki..
Malowanie Diorg’O było dla mnie nie lada wyzwaniem (zwłaszcza czasowym). Nie wiem przy tym czy dość dobrze widać to na zdjęciach, ale malując Ogroida nie tylko nadałem mu demonicznego umięśnienia, ale górze i centralnej części jego grzbietu dałem jaśniejsze kolory, by odzwierciedlić jego ułożenie względem źródła światła i uwypuklić napięte mięśnie ramion. Bardzo zależało mi też na dość dużym kontraście, przy zachowaniu płynnego przejścia kolorów. Podstawkę (zgodnie z sugestią) uzupełniłem tylko o kilka runów, nie chcąc, by skupiała na sobie za dużo uwagi. Mam przy tym nadzieję, że mówi ona  coś więcej o jego demonicznej naturze i kontrastuje z czystym malowaniem tej bestii.
Nie ukrywam, że podjąłem próbę pomalowania najlepszego na tę chwilę (a przynajmniej najbardziej dopracowanego) Ogroid Thaumaturge Tzeentcha, ale ocenę czy mi się udało pozostawiam i dlatego gorąco zachęcam do głosowania na niego na CoolMiniOrNot.com =)

Ogroid Thaumaturge of Tzeentch
 Ogroid Thaumaturge of Tzeentch
 Ogroid Thaumaturge of Tzeentch
 Ogroid Thaumaturge of Tzeentch
 Ogroid Thaumaturge of Tzeentch
 Ogroid Thaumaturge of Tzeentch
 Ogroid Thaumaturge of Tzeentch
 Ogroid Thaumaturge of Tzeentch
 Ogroid Thaumaturge of Tzeentch
 Ogroid Thaumaturge of Tzeentch
 Ogroid Thaumaturge of Tzeentch

Alpha Legion colour test model

Posted on November 9th, 2017 under , , , . Posted by

The third of the four Legions I`m building, Alpha Legion always had me attracted even back in the days that I started playing 40k, due to the mystery surrounding them.Being the ultimate deceivers, I have something special in mind for building that forc…

Spooky Painting Competition

Posted on November 9th, 2017 under , . Posted by

Welcome to the Spooky Painting competition. You may have seen it already on our Facebook page, we are running another painting competition. Now it’s been […]

The post Spooky Painting Competition appeared first on Tabletop Games UK.

Why I Stopped Painting

Posted on November 8th, 2017 under , . Posted by

 There was a time when I painted so many models that I was running out of unpainted ones that I wanted to paint, an almost unheard of phenomenon in the miniature painting community. I was turning over couch cushions to uncover any sort of toy sold…

Some artillery vignettes

Posted on November 8th, 2017 under , , , , . Posted by

I have been working on some artillery vignettes recently and have only just gotten round to photographing them for the blog.Although we do not have specifically French gunners yet I shaved off the single shoulder strap from our RA1 AND RA3 GNW Russian …

Some artillery vignettes

Posted on November 8th, 2017 under , , , , . Posted by

I have been working on some artillery vignettes recently and have only just gotten round to photographing them for the blog.Although we do not have specifically French gunners yet I shaved off the single shoulder strap from our RA1 AND RA3 GNW Russian …

Progress going down the toilet

Posted on November 7th, 2017 under , , . Posted by

Sometimes these blog post titles just don’t make a lot of sense.

Anyway. I reached the end of Zomtober, and found I didn’t really know what to do next. So I’ve been somewhat aimless in my painting for the last week or so, really just slapping some paint on anything that was ready to be done.

So, that’s led me to this:

“Flushed with success” might have worked better.
Never mind.

A second portaloo! Obviously this will have loads of uses.

I followed this up with…

That’s supposed to be a Make America Great Again hat, but
you can’t really see it here..

Further zombies! These were sitting on my painting station so they just sort of fell under the brush.

Also, last weekend we took a trip to Fiasco at the Royal Armouries in Leeds. This was decent enough, but I was able to resist almost all purchases, coming away with a Reaper minis “not Arnie” for the princely sum of £1.89.

So, what’s that done to the scores?

Painted: 164
Acquired: 161

There you go, I’m motoring away now!

Progress going down the toilet

Posted on November 7th, 2017 under , , . Posted by

Sometimes these blog post titles just don’t make a lot of sense.

Anyway. I reached the end of Zomtober, and found I didn’t really know what to do next. So I’ve been somewhat aimless in my painting for the last week or so, really just slapping some paint on anything that was ready to be done.

So, that’s led me to this:

“Flushed with success” might have worked better.
Never mind.

A second portaloo! Obviously this will have loads of uses.

I followed this up with…

That’s supposed to be a Make America Great Again hat, but
you can’t really see it here..

Further zombies! These were sitting on my painting station so they just sort of fell under the brush.

Also, last weekend we took a trip to Fiasco at the Royal Armouries in Leeds. This was decent enough, but I was able to resist almost all purchases, coming away with a Reaper minis “not Arnie” for the princely sum of £1.89.

So, what’s that done to the scores?

Painted: 164
Acquired: 161

There you go, I’m motoring away now!

Bolt Action: Australian Militia Painting Guide

Posted on November 7th, 2017 under , , , . Posted by


By Bryan,

Hi guys, welcome to another step by step painting guide for some 28mm WW2 miniatures, this time it’s for the Australian Militia who fought in the South West Pacific in 1942. This guide is designed to be a simple and efficient way to paint a platoon’s worth of miniatures rather quickly. This is for the Australians initial Khaki Drill uniform they first deployed to the theater in, the specialized Jungle Green uniforms came later at the end of 1942-43. I have done a guide previously for these later green uniforms here. You can use this guide for British 8th Army in the desert as well, just swap the helmet colour to a sand rather than green. Right, on with the guide!

Step 1 – Add base texture

After cleaning up the flash and mould lines on your metal miniatures, use superglue to attach them to their plastic bases. The Warlord Games plastic round bases feature a lip around the edge of the design to allow the metal tab at the models feet to sink into them slightly. However, it’s still a good idea to fill the base up with some material to hide this and add some texture for later. You can simply use sand an PVA glue for this, but I find it doesn’t hide the metal tab well.

I prefer to use Polyfilla (or any gap or crack filling product) from a hardware store and simply smear it across the base, using a toothpick or sculpting tool to poke it about. In a single step this fills up the base, hides the metal tab and creates a rough earth-like texture. The result should look like below.

Read more »

Bolt Action: Australian Militia Painting Guide

Posted on November 7th, 2017 under , , , . Posted by


By Bryan,

Hi guys, welcome to another step by step painting guide for some 28mm WW2 miniatures, this time it’s for the Australian Militia who fought in the South West Pacific in 1942. This guide is designed to be a simple and efficient way to paint a platoon’s worth of miniatures rather quickly. This is for the Australians initial Khaki Drill uniform they first deployed to the theater in, the specialized Jungle Green uniforms came later at the end of 1942-43. I have done a guide previously for these later green uniforms here. You can use this guide for British 8th Army in the desert as well, just swap the helmet colour to a sand rather than green. Right, on with the guide!

Step 1 – Add base texture

After cleaning up the flash and mould lines on your metal miniatures, use superglue to attach them to their plastic bases. The Warlord Games plastic round bases feature a lip around the edge of the design to allow the metal tab at the models feet to sink into them slightly. However, it’s still a good idea to fill the base up with some material to hide this and add some texture for later. You can simply use sand an PVA glue for this, but I find it doesn’t hide the metal tab well.

I prefer to use Polyfilla (or any gap or crack filling product) from a hardware store and simply smear it across the base, using a toothpick or sculpting tool to poke it about. In a single step this fills up the base, hides the metal tab and creates a rough earth-like texture. The result should look like below.

Read more »