Posts Tagged ‘Painting’

Quick One

Posted on January 23rd, 2017 under , , , . Posted by

Just popping this on as I have a full battle report to do later and I have a full day ahead, finishing two map projects and starting a new one, I also want to get started on the latest figures. I put the final touches to the bases of my second archer u…

Shadow Empire – Lo Pan’s Yaoguai

Posted on January 22nd, 2017 under , , . Posted by

The first miniatures of 2017 are finished. Three Yaoguai (demons) join the retinue of Lo Pan. The colour scheme is much brighter than I’ve been used to painting lately. I wanted them to look quite vibrant and for the saturation to make them seem s…

54mm British Grenadiers and lights

Posted on January 21st, 2017 under , , . Posted by

No gaming for me this week as club night interfered with my turn to host the local gardening club. But I did get a bunch of painting done. This week I finished off some A Call to Arms plastics.First up were some British grenadiers. Lovely figures–a re…

Anglevari, Auxilium Palatinum

Posted on January 19th, 2017 under , , . Posted by

That’s my third battle formation ready for the new Romans, I am getting on a lot faster than I thought, which means I am a fast painter or don’t have much to do of an evening, or I am using my time constructively during the winter period, I’m going for…

GNW Swedish units.. the long road since 1996

Posted on January 17th, 2017 under , , , , , , , . Posted by

Foundry+ conversions + Dixons and Redoubt components – The Dal 1996.. sadly goneI have a nice archive of my GNW efforts form the time when there was pretty much nothing available, through various iterations to now when I am pretty much writing my …

Aurelian and 54mm AWI

Posted on January 14th, 2017 under , , , , , . Posted by

I missed the club last week but I did get some gaming in this week. Braving bad roads (mostly in the city!), I drove out to Bruce’s and we played a battle in our Boudicca campaign. Similar to last time: Romans must control two objective markers (sheep)…

Hobby 101 – What Do I Need To Start Painting?

Posted on January 14th, 2017 under , , , , . Posted by

 Last weekend I got asked “How do you get started with painting as a hobby?” My initial response was “How long do you have?” In all honesty it’s not something I’ve ever been asked directly before – almost everyone I’ve spoken to about the hobby has either been in the hobby, and thus already started, or are outside the hobby and have opinions ranging from “that’s cool” to “how the hell do you paint the eyes on those, they’re tiny!”

With that in mind, I’m now going to try and answer the question.

When I got into the hobby, about the time of GW releasing their LotR The Two Towers starter set, I got started painting using the Battle Games in Middle Earth magazine series. That gave me the paints and hobby kit (some of which I still use today!) to get started all in one go, so I’ve never done the get started thing with picking up starter hobby equipment.

However, I’ve had a look at what I have on my desk at the moment and what I use regularly.

I’d put my hobby gear into two sections – painting and modelling. Modelling is an easier one than painting, as there are so many different paint brands around, all offering different things.

If you are getting into the hobby for the very first time, you can’t go wrong with a starter set. You get a decent array of paints, something apply them with and if you’re going for a hobby set opposed to a paint set – such as the Army Painter Hobby Set, you’ll also get yourself some decent quality gear in the shape of a file, knife, clippers and glues. Not everything in the set would be my first choice, but if I was looking to get started myself with minimum hassle, this is probably where it would be.

Glue – You’ll need plastic glue (for plastic!) and super glue for working with resin, metal and the plastic/resin/PVC/stuff that Privateer Press make their Warmahordes plastic from. My personal choices are Revell Contacta Professional for the plastic glue and Gorilla Glue for the super glue. The Revell stuff is great as the aplication needle is so thin that you don’t get stuff everywhere, which is great as plastic glue works by melting the surfaces it touches together, forming a solid piece. If the needle ever gets clogged, remove it from the bottle and hold it in some tweezers while heating it with a lighter. This burns out any solidified glue, just make sure you dump it in some water to cool down before you put it back into the bottle.

You also might find yourself in need of PVA glue. Don’t bother with hobby branded stuff – get yourself to a craft store and grab yourself a decent sized bottle and some kids glue spreaders for a fraction of the cost. A apply mine to the back on an old blister pack first before applying onto a model/surface so that I don’t swamp it.

Alongside the gear you’ll find in the starter set, I’d say other essentials are a pin drill set for pinning (I use a 0.5mm drill and paperclips for most things – we’ve also got a guide to pinning and tab pinning here) and a set of metal files. There is one included in the set, but I find it useful to have different files with different angles on them – curved, straight etc. There are a couple of different types that are common, I personally prefer this variety over the bobbly diamond files as the latter leave a rougher finish when used on plastic. Once you’ve filed something down, if you want a smoother finish, grab some emery boards, which are basically fine grit sandpaper sticks and use them. I also find it useful to have a variety of sculpting tools around, like this set from Heresy Miniatures.

That should be everything you need to build your models. Sometimes models will have gaps where the sections don’t join perfectly. These can be filled using Green Stuff or Milliput (dries with a harder edge than Green Stuff and easier to file down once dry but doesn’t hold detail quite as well), while smaller gaps can be filled with liquid greenstuff.

When building miniatures, you should really wash them all prior to building in warm soapy water with an old toothbrush. This helps get rid of any release agent that may still be on the model from the molding equipment, and can stop paint sticking to the model. I’m lazy so only wash resin models, unless the plastic or metal has a greasy feel to it.

Once you have a miniature built, you’ll likely want to decorate the base. There are dozens of options available to you – greenstuff press molds, sand, flock, static grass etc. My current favourite for both time efficiancy and look is to use ready made textures such as Vallejo Sandy Paste or Scale Color’s Rough Paste, which can be slapped straight onto a base (using those glue spreaders again, or sculpting tools to get into the hard to reach places) and create instant texture. Alternatively, you can use it as a base to add extra elements, such as sand and small pebbles to add a bit more creativity, as shown in this little walkthrough.

A quickly drybrushed Paste base.

We’ve done the building and the base, so we’re onto the painting. First up you’ll want to prime the model. There are a number of ways you can do this – by brush, by airbrush and by spray can. I’ll ignore the airbrush for now, as it basically does the same job as the spray can, just using whatever paint you put through the airbrush. Brush on primer, such as Vallejo Surface Primer, is applied in the same way as other paint – with a brush. This is useful for when it’s too cold, hot, windy or humid to prime outside with a spray can.

My preference is for Halfords Grey car primer, which also comes in black and white. You can also get coloured primers, such as those from Army Painter or Games Workshop. If you’re planning on painting an army that is the majority one colour and you can get a primer that matches it, it’s a massive time saver as your base tone is already applied for you.

Now comes the tricky bit – paint, and how to apply it. The first thing I’d say on the subject is this – don’t be stingy on your brushes. In most cases, you get what you pay for – be it a 10 for £1 set from a cheap craft store or a single Winsor & Newton 7 Series. You don’t need many brushes and if you look after good ones correctly, they’ll last you a long, long time, spreading your investment cost over time instead of buying new sets every few months.

When buying brushes for use with water based acrylic paint (most, but not all, miniature paints are water based – some are alcohol based, which require a synthetic brush), look for Kolinsky Sable bristles. There are many brands to look at – Winsor & Newton (their 7 Series), Raphael, Broken Toad, Wamp, Rosemary & Co – the list goes on. I’ve been using the Wamp Select Series for the past 18 months and love them, though I also have a Broken Toad Mk2 set (which they have trouble keeping in stock) that I haven’t opened yet.

It can be quite daunting looking through a list of brushes and wondering which to use. The Broken Toad set takes that away as it gives you a set of 4 – a 2, 1, 0 and 3/0. If you are new to brush sizes, the larger the number, the bigger the brush. a 3/0 is a 000, or really tiny!

The delightfully presented Broken Toad brush set.

In a similar fashion, the Wamp series uses names instead of numbers to describe their brushes (though also offers their equivalent number), depending on the job they are designed for. On 28-32mm minis, I find myself most commonly using the Basecoat Brush (size 3) and Detail Brush (size 1), followed by the Fine Freehand Brush (size 2/0) for eyes, but most painters say that they rarely use anything smaller than a size 1. As long as the brush has a good point to it, you can do everything you need with it as it will hold more paint and not dry out as quickly as the paint in a much smaller brush will.

I mentioned above about taking care of your brushes and that if you do, they’ll last for years. To do this, you’ll want brush soap. Broken Toad do some, but 9 times out of 10, if you ask someone about brush soap, you’ll get a link to this pot from Masters. It is an indespensible tool in a painters armoury and worth every penny – plus it’ll last even longer than your brushes will. To clean your brush, simply dip into water, rub the bristles around in the soap until you get a slight foam then wash off the brush and dry on a cloth or kitchen paper, dragging the brush in one direction to help reform the point.

The one thing it is important to learn if you want your brushes to live a long, prosperous hobby life – never let paint get into the ferrule (the metal bit that holds the bristles). If you do, it’ll dry there and interrupt the binding that holds the bristles in place, making you lose bristles and most likely, the all inportant point of the brush. If you see it happening, get the paint out of the brush ASAP!

Other things you’re likely to need on your desk are water jars (I use 2 – one for metallics and one for regular paint – I also keep a bottle of fresh water there so I can draw from that instead of muddy paint water for thinning paints down), kitchen paper for wiping/drying excess paint from your brush, a good source of light (many painters prefer “daylight” bulbs and lamps) and a palette.

For a palette you can use anything from an old plate, a tile, an artist’s welled palette – pretty much any surface you can put paint on/in really. The other option is a wet palette, and if you’re starting out I’d recommend starting with this so it becomes a habit. You can buy wet palettes and lots of people do. Lots of people make them as well – we’ve got an article on it somewhere in the blog, as many others do. Most people use them so they can seal up their paint at the end of a session, come back the next say and still have it fresh. My current approach is borrowed from the good folks at the Miniature Monthly Patreon, in that I don’t want the wet palette to keep my paints wet, I just want it to thin them out a bit.

With that in mind, my palette is currently about as simple as it gets. A lid (from my original wet palette tub), loo roll and grease proof paper that gets switched out every sitting. Each time I start, the same loo roll gets dowsed in water with the grease proof paper put on top, with paint applied to that.

Paint. It’s something I’ve intentionally left until last, because I’ve been struggling on working out where to start. I can’t remember a time of not having a vast selection of paints to choose from. It seems like every other time I order something or pass a hobby store I grab a couple.

There are so many ranges to choose from. Citadel (Games Workshop), P3 (Privateer Press), Vallejo, Coat d’Arms, Scale Color, Reaper, Darkstar, Warcolours, Army Painter, and they’re just the ones off the top of my head. Each has it’s own unique qualities and feels, and it’s worth experimenting with different brands to see which one fits for you.

As far as choosing which colours to start with, if you’ve already got a starter set, such as the Army Painter kit at the top of this long ramble, you’ve already got a good start. I can’t tell you which paints are the best, because everyone likes different ones. I love P3’s Coal Black. Joe loves Turqoise. After having a painting lesson with Scott, I know he can’t live without Deck Tan.

Generally I can’t advise on what shades to buy, but I can say for certain that if you intend on using metallics, you can’t go wrong with the Gold and Silver Scale Color sets – they’re some of the best metallics on the market. If you don’t want to invest in sets, they’re available individually, but I’d also throw in the Darkstar Molten Metals to the mix as they are just as good.

You’ll come across Inks, Washes and Glazes, which are all similar but different. Washes are generally painted straight out of the pot onto models – Games Workshop’s Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade are particularly useful to provide instant shade on models. Glazes are the product of thinning down regular paint a lot to create a wash-like medium that you apply to areas in very thin layers, using them to smooth out transitions when blending or to slowly build colour. Inks are similar to washes but have a massively higher pigment concentration and almost always need watering down before applying to a model. They also usually dry with a glossy finish. The Scale Color Inktensity set contains some of the boldest, most vibrant inks I’ve used.

Scale Color’s Inktensity set

Varnish is another personal preference – some people don’t varnish their models, but if a model is going to be touched then to stop chipping and oil from your skin damaging the paint, most people apply some form of varnish. This can either be by spray can, airbrush or from the bottle, similar to priming. Most ranges have their own varnishes, ranging from Gloss (shiny shiny), satin (slightly shiny) to Matt (takes the shine off things). I currently use a mix of Vallejo Matt and Satin varnishes, with Satin applied to areas such as metallics and anything I want to shine, like leathers, while Matt is applied to everything else, so the shiny stuff stays shiny and the cloth, skin etc has a more realistic feel to it.

If you plan on painting an army, the best advice I can give is to find a scheme you like that you’ve seen on the internet or in person and ask someone how they would paint it. Ask on Facebook in a painting group like ‘Eavier Metal or Miniature Painting Tips and Tricks. Go into a hobby store and ask the staff or the person who’s army you like the look of. Find out what they use, how they do it, buy a couple of paints and see if they suit you.

Make use of hobby resources such as Warhammer TV. Almost every day there is a new painting video, be it a certain technique or a colour combination or just a general hobby hint, that even people who have been painting for years might not have thought about trying, or find a new way to adapt.

My final piece of advice would be to join a painting forum, such as The AmmobunkerWamp or Cool Mini Or Not and start a project log. This gives you a place to post your efforts and to get feedback on them, along with allowing people to see where you started and where you are at the present time.

If you’re still here and still want to get into painting, then welcome to what I believe to be one of the most enjoyable and rewarding experiences in life – creating art. It might not always go they way you thought it might, but when you finish a piece you’re happy with, there is no feeling like it.

Progess! And then… not that.

Posted on January 9th, 2017 under , , . Posted by

After my somewhat rocky start the other day in which I acquired 57 models without yet having painted any, my quest to take more models off the lead pile than I add to it in 2017 seemed under threat.

But then, I managed this!


That’s a Shaltari Emerald Mothership, part of my new Dropfleet Commander force. Given my self -imposed rules, it’s fortunate that my pledge actually arrived in December, so I don’t have to count lots of extra spaceships against my tally.

I’ve played two games of Dropfleet now, and it seems like a really interesting game. The orbital combat mechanics make for something with more meat to it than other space combat games I’ve tried, and dropping troops onto the surface from orbit is an extra added challenge. I have loads of models for this to go at, so you can expect more posts about this game to turn up.

Unfortunately, however, Kieron’s pledge has also arrived, and so when I played him last night, he gave me his Shaltari sprues… which adds 8 models to the “acquired” column.

Also, just to nudge things just a touch further in the wrong direction, I need to complete the tale of Warlord Games orders. If you’re following all of this very closely (and I can’t think why you wouldn’t be), then you’ll know that my mother-in-law gave me £100 of Warlord vouchers for Christmas.

For some reason though, she wasn’t confident that the voucher would work when she gave me the code. Don’t know why, since she’s given me the same vouchers before, but she emailed Warlord to check, and for reasons I don’t really follow, got more confused and ended up calling them, at which point she was assured that all was fine. There it would have ended, but on boxing day she checked her email to find an apology from Warlord for the confusion, and an extra £20 voucher as a goodwill gesture – which she also passed onto me, since my mother-in-law unaccountably doesn’t buy much from Warlord herself.

So, kudos to Warlord Games for their customer service, but all of this is a long-winded way of saying that I need to add yet another model to the pile, as I used the voucher to get a Char B1 bis to add to my Bolt Action French.

Mmmm… unassembled…

 So, I am at least off the mark in terms of painting, giving me a new tally of:

Painted: 1
Acquired: 66

My birthday is in two weeks. I fear the worst.

Queen of the Night Finished Showcase Gallery

Posted on January 9th, 2017 under , , , , , . Posted by

Queen of the Night Finished Gallery The Queen of the Night is finally finished. The base is temporary until I manage to remember to order a nicer one. So that can be a while. It’s been a very fun and frustrating bust to paint, as they all tend to be :). The photos aren’t great but […]

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More Pandemic Legacy and 54mm militia

Posted on January 7th, 2017 under , , , , . Posted by

I missed the club this week due to illness. But I did get some gaming in at home. We played the February and March turns of Pandemic Legacy (Season 1) and managed two more wins.As the months have worn on, we’ve been introduced to new mechanics (an incu…

Well, that escalated quickly

Posted on January 7th, 2017 under . Posted by

Errr… right. As I mentioned in my obligatory New Year post, it’s my intention this year to be pretty strict with myself and my intention to reduce my enormous collection of unused, unpainted models (and embarrasing number of which are still in their original packaging).

So, I have to report that this isn’t off to a great start – I received the very generous gift of a £100 Warlord Games voucher from my mother in law for Christmas, and, well, this is the result:
Yeah, none of this is painted.
That’s a second copy of the Terminator Genisys game, some special and heavy weapon terminator endoskeletons, a French MMG team, a motorcycle gang, 8 horses and a ruined farmhouse. 
By my count, that’s a total of 57 models, although I might be able to get clever with the motorcycle gang and stretch it a bit further. 
So, let’s start the counter…
Acquired in 2017: 57
Painted in 2017: 0
Yeah. That’s a flying start, but sadly in the wrong direction. Still, onwards and upwards!

Star Wars Imperial Assault Core Set Mercenaries Painted

Posted on January 6th, 2017 under , , . Posted by

 Just a quick post today! The Imperial Assault core set doesn’t have too many Mercenary figures: Just 2 Nexu and 2 sets of Trandoshan Hunters.Foul bounty hunters!Chompin’Sorry for the short post! More painted IA stuff to come soon.

Star Wars Imperial Assault Core Set Heroes

Posted on January 5th, 2017 under , , . Posted by

Following up from the Core Set Imperials post, here are the core set Heroes! I painted the heroes after the Imps, and because they were all so unique, I spent a bit more time on making them come out okay. I’m pretty happy with the end results!

Read more »

Plan for the year ahead

Posted on January 4th, 2017 under , , . Posted by

Hi All,I thought it might be useful to put thoughts to blog as I try and have a think about what I want to accomplish with my hobby in 2017.So the trick is, how to make an actionable list of things I want to accomplish?Promote Oldhammer in the New Worl…

Star Wars Imperial Assault Painting: Core Set Imperials

Posted on January 4th, 2017 under , , . Posted by

A few months back I gave Imperial Assault a second shot thanks to the Descent app (and subsequent announcement of one coming for Imperial Assault as well). I decided I wanted to have everything painted and ready for when the app drops!

Here are pictures of the very first Imperial Assault models I painted. At the time I decided to paint them as fast as I could- I’ve since spent more time on models, so as I post more hopefully the quality will improve.

Presented here are the core set figures for the Empire: 3 groups of 3 Stormtroopers, 3 Imperial Officers, 3 Probe Droids, 2 groups of 2 Royal Guards, 2 e-Web engineers, and the man himelf- Darth Vader.

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Terrain is everything – Hail the Omnissiah new FREE Print & Play building template

Posted on January 2nd, 2017 under , , , , , , , , , . Posted by

I know Christmas and New Year has been and gone but there are still presents to be had and the 40kaddict thinks you’ve all been very good this year so please accept this gift as 2016 begins…This design is over 3 years old now but it is an absolut n…

Finished, maybe.

Posted on January 1st, 2017 under , , , . Posted by

I grabbed some time in between family time, movie time and playing games, no not wargames, time to complete the two Christmas kits. I decided not to be too fancy this time with the camo so left the 250/1 in factory dunkelgelb and the only area on the S…

Happy New Year!

Posted on January 1st, 2017 under , , , . Posted by

Rather than writing a 2016 wrap-up, I thought I’d start out the new year looking forward instead. At home we’re working our way through the opening stages of Pandemic Legacy. While permanently altering a board game (thus making it disposable) rubs me t…

The Obligatory New Year Post

Posted on December 31st, 2016 under , , , . Posted by

It’s 2017! Well, it will be tomorrow anyway.This would be the point at which I review how I did against my plans for the year, but looking back I’ve dicovered that I never posted about my plans for the year, and have no idea what I was trying to achiev…

Sagittarii and other stuff

Posted on December 31st, 2016 under , , , , . Posted by

I finished my second Patrician Roman unit the other day, it is one of two skirmish units of archers which I plan to use, I will have thirty-two of them when I am finished, this will give me either two units of between twelve and sixteen or three units …

Obligatory Year End Post Pt.1 – Painted in 2016

Posted on December 30th, 2016 under , , , . Posted by

Well, it seems like that time of year when bloggers look back at the year gone by and ponder what the year ahead holds.As of writing this I have 72 published posts this year, the lowest full year total since I started blogging.So let’s remind ourselves…

CMON & Video: Age of Santa =)

Posted on December 30th, 2016 under , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Posted by

It’s not too long until the New Year and because I’m still into the Spirit of Christmas I managed to post a video of "Age of Santa" – Stormcast Eternals Liberator conversion I made for Christmas Miniatures Exchange 2016. The miniature is also available in my gallery. You can vote for him here and watch the video below =)  

Do Nowego Roku zostało już bardzo niewiele czasu

Quick on the Draw

Posted on December 29th, 2016 under , , , , . Posted by

Pretty quiet day at last, I opened the PO this morning and after two hours of sitting I decided to close as I had had no one through the door, big mistake, just as I was putting the key in the hole I had to sell one stamp, then I got four more in a mat…

Catching up

Posted on December 29th, 2016 under , , , , . Posted by

Right, let’s keep this moving – the “New Year” post will be along before we know it and there’s a backlog building up here!My internet connection was broken for a while, so I haven’t been able to post this – ahem – vast array of painting that I’ve comp…

Terrain is everything – ‘Tis the season to pick up your trees

Posted on December 29th, 2016 under , , , , , , , , . Posted by

A few years ago I picked up a bag of model trees from Dobbies, our local garden centre [and craft shop]. They only have them in the run up to Christmas as they’re for making your own Christmas scene with miniature revellers and holiday nik-naks. I’d noticed other online garden centres stocked them also and as I wasn’t getting to go to Dobbies I did a search and they were 50% off on one store but I was out shopping and decided to buy it when I got home only for the last set to be sold…

I couldn’t stand to have lost out and found them again on sale at Dawson’s Department Store again at just £6.50 with £3.95 postage, so I ordered 2 set just for best value. It says there are more than 10 left in stock and at that price I thought I’d share so everyone can get a chance at a bargain. The set I got was 21 pieces from a company called Lemax. Clearly there’s at least two that are just a bit too big, they’re the same size as my 40k outpost that got bigger! but great line of sight blockers for a Trygon!
Of course they weren’t going to fit with my table so I decided to paint them – undercoating them all in Red Oxide primer and then repainting them in shades of yellow.
And here’s the finished result: