Hi FolksSome more progress on the volcano…If you want to see the last post head herehttp://shedwars.blogspot.co.uk/2015/02/building-volcano-part-4.htmlOnce all the filler was dry I added the ground mix – sand, ballast etc and covered all these areas …
Posts Tagged ‘Terrain’
A modest digression from 28mm; I have raised the city of Monopolis from a set of Monopoly houses and hotels, and a couple of Brandenburg gate pieces taken from EuroMonopoly sets. The temples are converted from hotels using plasticard. With a little sus…
Well, that’s it, I finally got my Realm of Battle Board done, in time for ‘Dave’s 40k @ 40′ tournament. This weekend me and my gaming crew will be having a mini tournament much like our ‘Game of Throne of Skulls’ this time it’s to celebrate m…
In order to break my war gaming drought I ventured to purchase a gaming mat made by Cigar Box Battle Mats.Why the drought and why will this be an important step?For a few years now I have been stuck in my wargaming hobby nightmare. You see I have a bun…
Sometimes, one finds the unexpected during completely mundane actions…
My lovely wife and I were doing the usual shopping chores yesterday. After finding a few necessaries at the downtown Seattle Bartell’s (drugstore chain), we stumbled upon a mos…
I picked up Big Red Bat’s “To the Strongest” the other day, a new set of ancient and medieval wargame rules that use a grid to regulate movement and distance. I didn’t want to mar my game mat with grid lines or ugly stickers, so I whipped up some “tabl…
I had fun this morning painting these 3D print-outs from Printable Terrain. This company produces computer files for printing these buildings on a 3D printer. This impressive meeting house and its two accompanying huts will be perfect to populate a … Continue reading →
It’s funny how just a hint of sunshine is enough for me to gamble again by spray painting these boards. So despite the crisp weather and quite blowy conditions I just went and sprayed them [will I ever learn?].And it actually worked! of course I don’t …
So quite a big update on the Volcano.
The previous post for this build can be found here
So first up I had to finish cladding this beast. In the end I used two whole tubes of cork bark. Total cost about £18.
You can see in the picture below I am trying to step the volcano to allow for at least some playability
Eventually with all the cork bark fixed I could fill and cover the exposed polystyrene areas. I added black acrylic paint to the filler to give it a grey colour.
I left one small area of the base exposed for a temple entrance…
I needed to build the crown of the volcano, scratching my head for ideas I game up with this option.
A circle of hardboard (roughly the size of the summit)…
then I fixed a piece of polystyrene on top with adhesive and one dry used the trusty foam cutting jig to make the crown.
This was then glued to the summit. I began playing around with some lighting affects
Whilst waiting for the frown to dry I glued in the temple entrance at the bottom of the mountain. This is an Egyptian tomb entrance sourced from Scotia Grendel – link below
The entrance was then built up using filler and odd pieces of cork.
Elsewhere I finished off the filling around the rest of the mountain. Black paint was added to the white filler hence the grey effect.
I then turned my attention to the summit and built this up with filler.
Still loads more to go …
So a few months back I backed my first Kickstarter. It was the Big Box Terrain by Angry Mojo Games. Well it arrived today, so I thought I would share it with you!A correction to the video: I mention triangular bases. Those are actually the floors for t…
I know you’ll say I don’t need to apologise for lack of posting but I will, it’s only polite afterall. So, sorry for not posting. I’ve been doing school Governor duties and just appointed a new headmaster. It’s actually had little impact on my hobby bu…
Also shown off at the Horus Heresy event were some new Forge World Terrain Tiles. This is a Gun Emplacement complete with weapon, ready to be attacked by Orks or Nids. As you can see this has a big turret and a big gun, almost naval in appearance. Via …
Hoi,A quick update to keep you all in the know. I plan to do a bit of a bigger update any time soon so keep an eye on this space.For now the theme is the “house” Quite some time ago I bought two white plaster houses in 1:72 scale. Last week I finished …
Tufts (if you don’t know, are little sticky clusters of static grass) are absolutely great for basing your miniatures and for spicing up your wargame terrain. I make extensive use of tufts in my basing – but today I’m hear to impart some knowledg…
Mantic is a hobby company – we make good quality, affordable miniatures, and simple to play games. We offer incredible customizable scenery, and now we’re pleased to be working with Secret Weapon as their exclusive distributor for the Tablescapes Gaming Tiles in the UK and Europe! What are Tablescapes Gaming Tiles? Tablescapes Gaming Tiles are […]
To support our ECW project (see here), I started to cast my eye about for appropriate 6mm terrain. I have a bunch of old SF terrain in 6mm but obviously not a lot of that will be useful (and to be honest after 20 years in boxes undergoing around …
So now that I had established general placement form and lighting it was time to paint in earnest and to finish constructing the set pieces that were needed to fill out the diorama.
I started with the Rust effect layer for some of my main metal objects. This involves spraying and brushing on a variety of rust tones and pigments which are sealed/fixed to the surface.
|Here is the fully rusted Warjack – almost a full paintjob beneath the paintjob|
Here is a pic of one of my other containers – this one was made from the lid of a Crayola marker. I used my mini pipe cutting tool to shorten it and then to score in some grooves to give it a bit of interest and then just sanded the gloss surface down to give the paints something better to adhere to. Gas can and big wrench from Tamiya historical kits, the box is from Herne and Jonne (Rhulic Mercenary team) You can also see that I have started to work in some glazes of green+reddish browns tones into the woodwork here.
Still a ways to go…..
I then began to rough in the other colours. On the back wall I began to paint all the bricks in a variety of grey tones that I carried into the floor as well. I used mixtures of Nato Black, German Grey, Basalt Grey, Barley Grey and a bit of Hemp, Buff and Beige Brown – all Vallejo Model Colour (VMC) or Vallejo Air Colour (VAC). The goal was to keep them related but not uniform. I looked at reference (see part 1 of this series of articles to see what I am talking about) to give me some ideas for variation and colouration.
The came the scary part – having just built and painted all of this now I had to grout/mortar it – which meant smearing plaster filler right across all the work I just did!
I used Lepage Poly Filla Big Hole Repair formula – it is thick and I figured it would better hold up to weathering than a lighter version. Using the damp J cloth to remove the excess worked wonders and my mortar filled in nicely!
Got going on Gorman himself, started out using a deep red on the cape (p3 Sanguine base IIRC) and worked it up through VAC Scarlet and the VGC Fiery Orange colour.
Next installment – paint tricks, streaking, black oil and liquid rust……
This week I’ve been putting together some more bits and bobs for terrain including some scatter terrain pieces. I’ve finished off these woodland scenary bits.Nothing wow but should be generally useful pieces.The background to the pieces is my WIP terra…
Hi FolksThe first part to this build starts here…there is a link at the end of each post taking you to the next.http://shedwars.blogspot.co.uk/2015/01/pulp-tramp-steamer-starting-to-look.htmlWhat with the rapid build going on with the volcano I decid…
Dziś uraczymy Was kolejnym poradnikiem pokazującym krok po kroku w jaki sposób wykonujemy drzewa do naszych makiet.
- klej do drewna
- papier toaletowy albo gaza
- gładź szpachlowa
1. Cut two or three pieces of wire, each 15-20 cm long. Bend all pieces in half of their length and start to twist them together. You don’t have to twist them perfectly, we both think that it’s better when the tree is a bit crooked. We decided to make a small orchard, so our trees can’t be too straight.
1. Ucinamy 2-3 kawałki drutu, każdy po 15-20 cm. Składamy wszystkie na pół i łapiąc za końcówki zaczynamy skręcać. Nie muszą być skręcone idealnie równo, według nas lepiej drzewo wygląda kiedy jest lekko koślawe (my robimy drzewa bardziej sadownicze, więc w naszym wypadku nieregularność i krzywe gałęzie były oczywiste).
2. When we achieve half a length of our tree, we start to make some boughs. Bend back one of the wires and then twist it as you can see in the beneth photo. Then cut it and you will get two smaller branches. Proceed with the rest of wires in the same manner to make similar boughs.
2. Mniej więcej gdy dojdziemy do połowy wymyślonej przez nas wysokości drzewka, zaczynamy „wypuszczać” konary. Odginamy jeden z podwójnych kawałków i skręcamy do połowy długości, następnie końcówkę rozcinamy i tak powstają dwie gałązki. Resztę drutów skręcamy dalej.
3. This is the moment when you have to make a base for a crown of the three. Separate the wires and turn them a bit, then cut them in half and bend them in different directions.
3. Dochodzimy już do momentu, kiedy trzeba utworzyć koronę drzewa. Rozdzielamy druty i skręcamy jeszcze kawałek. Potem tak jak w przypadku konaru rozcinamy i wyginamy pojedyncze gałązki w różne strony.
4. The wire tree is finally ready! Now we need a toilet papier and PVA glue mixed with water in proportion 2:1. Cut the paper into stripes, wet it in the mixture and wrap it up around the wires.
Druciany szkielet gotowy! Czas nadać drzewom objętości. Do tego celu użyjemy papieru toaletowego albo gazy oraz białego kleju do drewna wymieszanego z wodą w proporcji 2:1. Papier (lub gazę) tniemy na paski i mocząc w mieszaninie kleju z wodą owijamy druciki. Praca ta potrafi być irytująca w przypadku papieru, ponieważ często się rozrywa.
5. After covering all wires with paper let our trees get dry. After that time i use plaster finish to make trees more natural.
Po pokryciu szkieletu drzewa papierem i ich wyschnięciu nakładam cienką warstwę gładzi szpachlowej. Wówczas drzewko wygląda bardziej naturalnie.
Stay tuned. We will soon post second part of this tutorial about painting and making foliage for our trees.
Wkrótce druga część poradnika traktująca o samodzielnym przygotowaniu listowia z gąbki oraz o malowaniu drzewek.
|At first glance what did you think this was?|
So I come home that night and find out that the deadline isn’t next week, it’s tomorrow! I’d been telling him for weeks to get it sorted and he got confirmation on Monday from his teacher it was next week only for the teacher to shift the goalposts! So we go to it, quick and dirty. I strip a bunch of twigs out, using a clothes peg to hold them together.
I then used some spare fishing wire to tie the base together. Ordinarily this wouldn’t be enough but time was short. I’d have probably coated the ‘trunk’ in PVA so it became a solid mass. For this I want it to be as natural as possible, luckily the fishing line isn’t too noticeable. I then hot melt glue them to the aluminium discs. I was a little concerned about the blue and black glue sticks but hoped the basing would cover them up.
However, for the purpose of potential gaming terrain these are quite a bit taller than they need to be. I’m sure with some clippers they could be trimmed down.
However, these all came together in a couple of hours. For 40k I’d spray them white and be done with it, maybe even add some yellow/orange/red flock. The only concerns are the twigs do have a waxy/dusty feel to them so I question how well spray paint would adhere to the twigs.
Additionally the twigs feel brittle so I would question their durability for continuous use, however I did find even some of the thinner branches particularly difficult to cut with heavy duty scissors so perhaps my fears would be unfounded? But that’s a pretty good forrest for £6 in materials and there are still four discs remaining and practically a whole broom [I only did 6 stands of trees for convenience]
Lastly we based them up – PVA and sharp sand. For his project I wanted to keep things natural and luckily my sharp sand mix is similar to the ground print out. The only real concern is whether the PVA can dry in time. I propped this box on top of a radiator and hit it with a heat gun for a bit so fingers crossed that helps speed the drying process, it’s got 8 hours until school at least.
Of course the heat gun started to melt the fishing line a little bit but I stopped well before these things burst apart, although I think the hot melt glue probably is holding these things together quite well.
Anyway, if you’re looking for trees I think these are quite nifty and don’t require a huge amount of effort. The most difficult thing is tying the knots in the fishing line but that may be just overkill. Some of the bases I just put hot melt glue on and stuck three or four twigs in without tying them together. If these get returned I’ll paint them up so you could see simple yet effective they can be.
As a matter of house keeping it seems the PTBs have now decided to restrict access to blogs for me. funnily enough I can still edit and post just not view. There were always some blogs that I couldn’t see if it was referrenced as a ‘games’ blog, regardless of what sort of game but now all blogs have been denied. So repsonding to comments and viewing others blogs may be less timely.
Now for something slightly different.More after the jump
Postie has been busy…..
A few days ago one of the guys on the Lead Adventure Forum posted that he had bought some Balinese Dragons which were perfect for his pulp temple.
So a quick search on ebay revealed these =- at the time I thought I was buying two for £7.00 so wanting four I ordered two sets. Unfortunately I didn’t actually read the small print as this stated that they were £7.00 each and not for the pair. Not too worry these aquarium ornaments will no doubt feature in one of my many planned pulp games.
Now whilst on ebay I found this statue on auction for 99p and guess what I won ! Add in £2.80 for postage I think I got a bargain.
The figure shown is 28mm scale so this makes a great jungle monument.Whats better is that it doesn’t even need a paint job.
Finally, and talking about bargains my wife and I were browsing some of the junk shops near Hampton Court and this box caught her eye (I am clearly training her well). Unbeknownst to me she paid the tenner asked for and popped it into her bag. Later in the afternoon she presented me with this gift.
As far as I can tell this is an American manufactured model by a company called AMT in the 1970’s. The scale is 1/50.
All the pieces are in the box including the cords for the basket
I mentioned bridges in the post title….well look what I also found on ebay for a few pounds (£7 if I recall)…
An Airfix Pontoon Bridge…I have absolutely no idea what I am going to use this for but I am sure it will get pressed into action at some point in time.
Finally you may recall I bought a rope bridge…well as things turn out I discovered that thee were two models and the second was bigger…quite a lot longer. Net result I now have two bridges to traverse the chasms.
until next time….
With the wall and floor established and an antagonist/protagonist relationship realized it was important to address the room “décor” that will tell the rest of the story and provide supporting information about the characters and events.
Gorman is an alchemist whose abilities in game are basically defined by his grenades rather than his swordsmanship. If we look at the figure this is also clearly on display where the blade is held up defensively to keep opponents at bay while his right arm is flung back in preparation to throw, causing the cape to wave dramatically and revealing the arsenal slung on his belt. The grenades are the real threat and the basis of the stance of the model.
In the game, Gorman carries smoke bombs, impractical here as he is making his presence clearly known (not hiding), bombs which create instant rust and the dreaded blinding black oil. The use and effects of both of these could definitely be incorporated into the scene with clever use of paint and a few fun tricks. Used correctly they should also add a sense of power and gravitas to our protagonist.
Having conceptually established the criminals as being dangerous and well equipped, it made sense to include a light warjack in their personal armory – certainly useful in most aspects of their shady daily business. Having a firepower heavy warjack in a warehouse full of goods and at close quarters seemed less than completely sensible so I grabbed a Talon (mercenary light warjack) armed with a Stun spear and boasting a shield it seemed to make a great logical bodyguard/enforcer/labor ‘jack.
It was also a target that Gorman could believably shut down in his own special way.
|you can see that it is still in pieces here as I “mocked up” the pose and arrangement.|
SO: How to wreck a Warjack in a believable Gorman-esque fashion.
|close to the final pose – time to cut a bit and fine tune.|
This warjack would have to be defeated by alchemical process moreso than by brute violence – so it shoud remain realtively intact. The damage and manner of its defeat would be evident in the paint and finish rather than in heavy modification. I took some time to monkey around with the pose and in the end did a little bit of cutting and pinning to lay this big guy down. I wanted the lines of his body to draw attention in the same direction as the action of the scene so that he became a dynamic compositional element rather than just a piece of scenery or a major character in and of itself. Using the paint to tie its colors into those of the criminals and using additional paint effects to make this defeated wreck harmonious with the overall environment were also very important – but we will come to this in the next installment ;P (ooh a hook!)
With a bit of work on detailing (strip styrene, granst line rivits, watch parts, brass and wire) and hinging the door to fit it was time to move into primer and finalize the little details for the piece. It was at this point that I nearly made a very costly error. I added alight by the door which looked super cool, but I did so without consideration that it was a GW brand part and that it would be against the rules of the competition. This would come back to haunt me later, but would also give me an opportunity to do something even cooler……
For priming I tried Vallejo’s Black Airbrushable primer that I borrowed from my buddy Erik, with an overspray of Ammo Of Mig Jimenez Grey Primer. I REALLY prefer the finish of the Ammo brand primer and
will be picking up their black instead for future work. (you think I would know by now just to default to this stuff in the first place but In the moment I am super glad that Erik had the black to lend me either way!)
Note the extra light being suggested around the lower window and coming from through the doorway as well as directly under the thrice acccursed lamp….. Now the painting was really ready to begin!
Cya next time to show you some really cool paint tricks!
Introducing our newest terrain mat – The Beachhead! This mat (#160) works perfectly as a “stand alone” mat to let you fight amphibious assaults from modern day, to World War Two, to ancients! Storm the beaches at Normandy…or see how Caesar’s legions fare landing on the shores of Britain. The choice is yours and the options […]
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