Posts Tagged ‘Terrain’

Cobblestone Gaming Mat from Kraken Wargames

Posted on May 28th, 2016 under , , , . Posted by

At the end of 2015 I backed the Kraken Mats kickstarter thanks to a convincing unboxing video over at Beast of War. Today the mat has arrived – does it hold up to my expectations?The Kraken Wargaming mats are now available from FantasyWelt and today I …

Visions of Confluence

Posted on May 25th, 2016 under , , . Posted by

Last year I dove headlong into making terrain for Malifaux. As I’ve mentioned before, terrain is my favorite part of the hobby, so brining my vision of Malifaux to life has been great fun so far. While I’ve posted pictures here and there as I’ve completed pieces and  set up tables, I’ve not had the chance to talk about the design of what I’m working on or to share any tutorials. Over the next several blog posts, I hope to change that.
In fact, this is the first of several posts that will be much more than pictures of the terrain I’m working on. They will also be a chronicle of the world I’ve envisioned in which the terrain is placed. In this way, I hope to craft this blog into a record of all aspects of my hobby work with Malifaux, from terrain and painting all the way to playing and running campaigns.
But to start, I want to talk a bit about inspiration. When I started the terrain project, I spent hours looking through old photos on-line and documentaries to find the direction in which I wanted to head. My goal was to make the boards feel like real places. The pictures included here are those I kept as reference. I had visions of port cities, railway stations, mining camps and downtown blocks and quickly I decided I needed to focus on a single concept. I chose to create the mining town Confluence. This week’s post will conclude with an introduction to the town and one of its more colorful residents.

“Augustine Gale was dead. According to the Marshal, who admitted having no skill in medicine, the body had lain for hours, a twisted smile breaking over its cold face. The corpse was covered in blood and its pockets were filled with what must have been a dozen Soulstones, humming and gently glowing in the darkening evening. Normally unconcerned with something as routine as a suspicious death, the Marshal had been called in when the milky opalescent stones were discovered. As he collected them, he noted not a single wound on the old man’s body. Whether the blood was Augustine’s, the Marshal was not sure. Nor was he sure what was meant by the words on the floor beside the dead man’s head. He pocketed the Soulstones and scribbled in his notebook the strange words scrawled in blood ‘THE FLESH’.
“West of the Black Swamp, the town of Confluence hides in the thick forest along Silent Creek. It is believed there were once three rivers flanking the small town, but today there remain little more than dry creek beds meandering through the woods. The town was originally established after the opening of the first Breach, carved from the woods not in search of Soulstone, but a large gold vein deposited along the riverbeds. When the Breach re-opened, Confluence, like most settlements, was rediscovered, emptied of its inhabitants and silently waiting. Among those to resettle was Augustine Gale, an enterprising mine operator from Earthside who had tried to make a name for himself in Soulstones, but had been squeezed out by the iron fist of the Guild’s regulation. In Confluence, Augustine believed he had found a way to make money, a lot of money, without the Guild’s constant oversight. Now he was dead, the ambition little more than a drying glint in his gleeful, dead eyes.
“News of Augustine’s death has spread quickly over the frontier. Even more quickly have spread the stories of the Soulstones he possessed. Never before have Soulstones been mined out of Silent Creek, but Augustine’s death may be a sign that a vein has been discovered. Whispers in the mining camps have grown as brave men and women gather supplies and sneak into the west, eager to set up their own claim where Augustine met his fate. Surely it won’t be long before the powers of Malifaux turn their eyes towards the quiet streets of Confluence as well…”

In the coming weeks, we’ll take a closer look at the story of Confluence, as well as the Shifting Loyalties campaign I ran in my local group. And of course, there will be more painting and more terrain. As always, any thoughts are welcome. Thanks for the visit!

More to Come.


How to: Realistic Broken Pavement By Dragomir

Posted on May 25th, 2016 under , , , , , , , , , , . Posted by

An amazing tutorial from one of my favorite painters (and a great friend) Dragomir Milanovic!

I’ve had a few requests on how I did the concrete on the PT Sturmgacruiser Fallout base. Hopefully I can fully explain it here.

I used dental plaster for the base. This is much harder than regular Plaster of Paris. Regular plaster has a hardness of about 3000 psi, dental plaster is 8000psi so you can be fairly rough with it, I’ll explain later. You can use regular plaster but you have to be a lot more delicate in your work.

Mix the plaster with sand and grit, just think of the scale and avoid larger particles which would be rocks in real like. I added pigment powder to the mix. Since this plaster is cream coloured ( beige ) The pigment used was called Industrial Dust (MIG Powders). You have a dry mixture ready to add water.

Next, you will need to make a mould. You can glue plastic strips to a sheet of styrene. You have to remember that the surface you will work on is on the bottom of the mould so you have to build the mould in reverse. The mould about 1/4 inch deep which makes a bit difficult to pull it out with out cracking but in this case it’s ok. If you want a more solid concrete pad with less cracks just make it thicker.

The trick used here to keep the plaster pad from falling apart is to cut strips of drywall mesh tape and embed it into the plaster when pouring. Mix the plaster to a thick creme consistency and pour about half of the mould and embed the stripes of drywall mesh, any nylon mesh will do but drywall mesh if exposed will look like the steel rebar reinforcement which you can see in the above  photo. Pour the rest of the mould and shake and vibrate the mould to get rid of air bubbles. Place the mould on a level surface and take a straight edge, level the plaster to the top of the mould sides and remove excess plaster. Make sure the mesh doesn’t touch the bottom or it will be visible when you remove the plaster when viewing the working surface (Bottom surface of the mould).

When dry, remove the plaster base from the mould and have the bottom surface face up, this is your working surface. It should be smooth but it’s too smooth now. Place the pad on a surface with some give ( rubber surface ) and start pressing the plaster to form crack patterns. Once happy with the cracks, I mentioned that you will be rough with the plaster, well… will need a wire brush, the ones welders use to scrape metal. They can be found at any Hardware store, and a small wire brush which can be found at most Dollar stores in a set. Start brushing the surface in small circular motion. Mix the areas used between the two brushes to give a random patterns. This will roughen up the surface and also expose the grit particles you embedded. You can add water when brushing, this changes the effect the brush is doing because you are making the plaster a tough softer. You can also hammer the surface with the brush to make pock marks and divots. You can see the scratches in the picture .

Once you finished brushing the surface and happy with the effect, you are on to the next violent phase. You will need a small hobby hammer. Yes….. a hammer. That’s why I use dental plaster. 😉

If you want old large open crack, start tapping ( Whacking ) along the crack. This will start to shatter the edges and will open up and become wider the more you hammer. It’s up to you how far you go. Vary the widths of the cracks, from no tapping to a much as you want. Just keep it looking natural and random.

Once happy, you can apply sand and scale aggregate to some of the large open cracks and use Future as a glue and let dry. I didn’t want to use glue because if you have glue residue or smears it will show when you seal the plaster. Seal the plaster with Future Floor wax, either brush it on or airbrush, there is no real difference. Let the Future dry completely.

Above the base has been assembled and basecoated. The lettering has been stenciled but not before coarse salt was added to the area. this way once the yellow paint dried it would be chipped and abraded away in a natural looking way by the removal of the salt mask as below.

 You can do an oil paint wash at this point. You can either apply it just to the cracks or as I did, over the whole surface. Wait till the wash goes from a wet look to a matte finish, about 30-45 minutes and take cotton swabs and start removing the dried wash from the large surface but leave it on near the cracks and in the cracks. That’s how you will get some tonal changes and give the concrete an old earthy tone. Colour is up your preference. If you remove too much, reapply the wash, let dry and do the clean up again till you are happy. Let it dry at least a day and seal it with matte varnish. This should be applied with an airbrush or spray can, I found that brushing can lift the oil pigment and you will end up losing the effects and streak the oil pigments.

Now it is just in need of some natural groundwork, vegetation, details and debris!
(JAMES RECCOMENDS: Check out the documentary Life After People if you want some cool inspiration!)

Birch seeds make excellent leaf litter and there are many types of static grass in both prepared clumps and loose formats. 

James would like to add that there is also the sweet new leaf punch system available from Green Stuff World – I don’t have these yet but REALLY want them so that I can punch real looking leaves out of actual leaves!

Hope this was helpful.
Feel free to ask any questions!

Also to see more of Dragomir’s work check the tags on the side of the blog page you will see one that links to several postings I have made about his projects :)

Cya Soon!
 James “TKKultist” Craig


Battlefield in a Box Oil Tanks Review

Posted on May 24th, 2016 under , , , , . Posted by

I am going to be putting a short series of reviews of Battlefront’s new modern building line for play with Team Yankee.  Battlefield In A Box has been a very good line of accessories for Battlefront’s game systems.  They do not have to be use…

Sectional Terrain: 3 Panels done

Posted on May 22nd, 2016 under , , . Posted by

 The three 2×4 terrain panels for Historicon are done!  All thats left to do is a 6 ft x 1 ft shoreline. With the shoreline, I’ll have enough panels to make a 15 ft x 6 ft playing area for the land portion of the game.After Historicon, I’ll n…

Tiny Trees

Posted on May 22nd, 2016 under , , . Posted by

I have been making several small woods for use with my 6mm Punic War project but its taken a little longer than I had planned because I had to wait for the trees to arrive from the other side of the planet! About three weeks ago I ordered fifty 1:300 s…

Sectional Terrain: Craters

Posted on May 21st, 2016 under , , . Posted by

I got a little bored making the terrain panels and decided to add some shell holes in the corner of one of the flat ones just to add some interest.  Sometimes these spur of the moment decision end in disaster but this one may work out.Making shell…

TtS! Rocks

Posted on May 18th, 2016 under , , , , . Posted by

While all may be ‘Quiet on the Blogging Front’ in the background there is a hive of activity and terrain building. Unfortunately very little is being finished at the moment because I am awaiting a load of 1:300 trees from an eBay supplier in China. I reckon they are arriving by row boat because the delivery estimate is somewhere around the end of the month and I ordered these several weeks ago! Mind you at just £2.76 for 50 trees I can hardly complain. In the meantime I have been working on a load of figure prep and some other minor projects such as this item of impassable terrain…The Rock. 
It is designed for the 3″ squares on my home-made TtS! game mat and is made almost exclusively from items supplied or found by the Young Padawan. She picked up the rock at the weekend and it was clear from its shape (with a nice flat bottom) that it was destined for the games table; the flock and yellow flower/bushes she discovered in a bargain bin at Salute; and the base is made from an off-cut of MDF found while rummaging through my bits box. 
Hopefully a few other projects will come to fruition in the next few days but I have a busy week and a busy weekend ahead so in all likelihood nothing will get done. Such is life!

Hill Making Tutorial

Posted on May 17th, 2016 under , , , , , , . Posted by

By Luke Melia

War gaming hills.  They are an integral part of the terrain features on all of our tables no matter what system we play.  Hills also provide depth to tables, block line of site and provide cover from enemy fire.  When people have asked me over the years what types of terrain they should make first for their tables, I always say “hills” without question.  There are a lot of different techniques for making hills and there is, by no means, a right or a wrong way of making them.  Terrain is a very personal thing for me.  Ultimately you have to be happy with the way any piece of terrain looks on your table.  To that end, I would remind everyone that this is the way I like to build hills an it works well for me.   If you have some alternate methods please feel free to share on our forum. 

I am going to show you a couple of different types of hills and rocky outcroppings that I have been working on.

You start with pin (or blue) insulating foam. You as several choices in the thickness of the board.  This will determine how tall your hills will be.  I chose two inch thick so I would get more height, specifically for the rocky outcroppings.  I use a jig saw to cut out the rough shape of the hill then use a Styrofoam cutter that you can purchase from any hobby or craft store to shape the hill into the shape I like.

Read more »

Land Ironclads: Sprue Fortress III

Posted on May 15th, 2016 under , , . Posted by

You may remember a couple of years ago I started work on a small Sprue Fortress to go with my Sprue Village and Sprue Town for Land Ironclads and Aeronef games. Unfortunately I managed to lose the model (don’t ask) but recently found it so decided…

Sectional Train: Ground texture Applied

Posted on May 14th, 2016 under , , . Posted by

I managed to get 2 of the 3 panels ground “textured”.  The third will wait for today as I ran out of gap filler (spackle) and need to grab some this morning from the hardware store.The ground texture is 2/3 pre-mix flexible tile grout (sandstone c…

Tabletop World Fantasy Medieval Buildings

Posted on May 13th, 2016 under , , . Posted by

Tabletop World produces fantastic terrain: 28mm resin buildings rendered with exquisite detail, both inside and out and chock full of charm and character. They are works of art, and honestly a bit intimidating.After receiving them for Christmas a few y…

Avengers and Guardians Board for Marvel

Posted on May 13th, 2016 under , , , , , , , , . Posted by

I have finally had the chance to pick up a couple of bits to finish off my multi use Marvel board.Some sprays to match the GF9 rocks, more GF9 rocks and some textured paint.This was a combination of 3 different Army Painter sprays on top of some masonr…

Systema table painted

Posted on May 12th, 2016 under . Posted by

Table’s to a point where I’m fine calling it done. Threw a ton of forest zones on for good measure. Was kinda dense at ground level, difficult terrain and door rules bogged movement down quite a bit, but there was still decent sniper/hmg ability to threaten from up top. Still, will probably lighten up next … Continue reading Systema table painted

GMG Tables

Posted on May 10th, 2016 under . Posted by

Was bored while I waited for primer to dry on my Systema terrain. Watched GMG’s ep35 batrep (well, turn 1 of it anyway) and decided to screenshot a pic of each table used for every episode. They’re in chronological order top to bottom starting with his 1st episode. Should probably add them to the tabletop … Continue reading GMG Tables

ECW – Gun Emplacements

Posted on May 9th, 2016 under , . Posted by

Hi Folks

Its been the best part of 5 months since I last built any terrain in the Shed and if you have been following this blog for sometime you will know that it is this aspect of the hobby I enjoy most. However a combination of real life, the small number of ECW figures to paint and a complete lachk of storage space in the shed has meant any terrain projects have been put on hold.

However this hiatus has allowed me to think about what I want to do once the extension is built. But I don’t want to wait for another couple of months and lets face it once the shed is built I’ll then be erecting shelves, building the new games table etc. So I had an itch I wanted to scratch and settled on building two gun emplacements for my ECW artillery.

OK here goes the build in pictures.
Cut out the mdf base. I used 9mm MDF with the jigsaw angled to give the sloping edge. Once sanded smooth (rem,ember face mask when working with mdf) I sealed both bases in pva.

With the PVA dry I broke off some loose cheapo polystyrene into pieces that were a little smaller than the bases. These were then fixed to the Mdf using interior grip adhesive. Allowed to dry overnight.

Using ready made filler I built up the banks of the emplacements – ie between the polystyrene and edges of the mdf. Allowed to dry overnight.

No comes the fun part. Using a combination of bbq skewers and coffee stirrers I built up the wooden planking of the emplacements. This was just a case of pushing in skewers into the polystyrene top and fixing with pva

 I quickly realised that the Renedra gabions I bought from salute were too wide for the top of the firing positions so I had to create a secondary terrace on which they could sit. Again this was built up using the bits described above and in much the same way we poured concrete top make the shed base I poured watered down filler into this terrace.

Before I placed the gabions I painted them black and the outside of the planking walls. This ensured those hard to reach painted areas started off life as black and not white !

The gabions were then fixed using a combo of filler, pva and adhesive. This was all left to dry overnight.

Next up involved covering all the ground area with sand and ballast. The gabions themselves were topped off with a coarser ballast. With this dry The whole structure was painted black acrylic. This seals in the whole model and provides a base for the drybrushing.

Once this was done it was a quick simple job of drybrushing on the base and walls followed by some static grass.

This whole project cost less than £12 (of which £8 went on the Gabions) and took about 4 hours over 5 days.

Come back soon because tonight we are playing with the 28mm ECW Forces for the first time…

The Workbench This Weekend, 7 May 2016

Posted on May 7th, 2016 under , , , , , , . Posted by

My girlfriend is out of town with friends so I’ve had a bachelor/wargamer weekend and gotten a lot done on my Infinity figures. The planters are foamed PVC sheet and mat board offcuts, and the trees are from Games Workshop — at one point they produced a rather nice set of modular plastic “tropical trees” … Continue reading The Workbench This Weekend, 7 May 2016

Gargulce | Gargoyles

Posted on May 2nd, 2016 under , , , . Posted by

Na warsztat trafił kolejny miniminiminiprojekcik, a mianowicie dwa gargulce na postumentach, które będę mógł wykorzystać albo jako, po prostu, ozdóbki na polu walki, albo w scenariuszach do Frostgrave. Miniaturki to stareńka Ral Partha, skala 25 mm z tego co pamiętam. Jednego z tych gargulców pokazywałem lata temu w innym, pierwotnym malowaniu. Postanowiłem jednak wydobyć to maleństwo z czeluści zapomnienia i dać mu drugą szansę na zaistnienie. Przykurczony kolega to druga część tego samego zestawu – tego od dziesięcioleci miałem w białym podkładzie.
Jeden ze scenariuszy gry Frostgrave wykorzystuje sześć żywych posągów, strzegących skarbów. Moje kamienne maszkarony będą dwoma z nich, teraz muszę jeszcze znaleźć cztery kolejne miniaturki, podobne w stylu. Dwie w zasadzie już mam, nad kolejnymi się waham… Ale możliwe, że ostatecznie zrobię je w tym tygodniu.
Kolumny to produkt Black Grom Studio, wersja prototypowa. Wkrótce prawdopodobnie trafią do sprzedaży. Dobrze odlane, proste, klasyczne kolumny doryckie, dostępne w odcinkach z podstawami i z kawałkami “po przejściach” – ukruszonymi i obitymi. Te trafią do planowanej zrujnowanej świątyni…
Gargulce przymocowałem do kolumn za pomocą magnesów. Dzięki temu mogę je zdejmować, jeśli w czasie gry zajdzie taka potrzeba.
I managed to paint another tinytinytiny project – two stone gargoyles standing on columns, which will be usable both as a stand alone mini-architecture on the game table or for Frostgrave scenarios. Figures are very old Ral Partha, 25 mm scale if I remember correctly. One of them was already shown here, on the blog, years before, in its original painting 23 years old. I decided to revive this little fellow and give him a second chance so to speak. His gnarled friend is from the same set – this one was undercoated white and left for the same amout of time.

One of Frostgrave scenarios calls for a six living statues guarding treasures. My stone gargoyles will be two of them, now I need to find another four miniatures similar in scale to make further statues. To be honest, I have two of them already, and I wonder over last two of them… I will try to make those four statues this week, if time will permit.

Columns come from Black Grom Studio company, both are from preproduction cast. They will be available soon I think. Cast is good, columns are classical doric ones, divided into sections and bases/capitals. Some of the sections are broken or crushed, adding to the variety. I will use them in forthcoming ruined small temple project…

Gargoyles are positioned over the top of columns with small earth magnets. They are easily detachable, if need arise.

A quick post about Frostgrave Terrain

Posted on May 1st, 2016 under , , , , . Posted by

Continuing with the Frostgrave theme, here’s some recent structures I put together for Frostgrave or other skirmish games. Here are three ruined village buildings originally sold as Normandy scenery sold as “Bold Action 28mm Ruined Hamlet” by Warlord Games. These … Continue reading

Building an ACW Tollhouse

Posted on April 29th, 2016 under , , , , . Posted by

During the Civil War, tollhouses were quite a common sight. There is even an anecdote about General Sheridan being held up by one Charlotte Hillman, the keeper of a tollhouse, who refused to let his army pass. Only after Sheridan promised to send the money the pike was raised. This already shows the potential of … Continue reading Building an ACW Tollhouse

Painting a Trash Bash Building Video

Posted on April 28th, 2016 under , , , . Posted by

Four months later and I finally managed to paint the observation tower/power plant.

Sarissa Precision Far East buildings

Posted on April 27th, 2016 under , , , . Posted by

 I went in on a whole Far East village from Sarissa Precision and completed two of the nine buildings in the set. So far, I am very impressed with the kits.  The woven palm style village house is my favorite so far. The building sits up on stilts which invoke a strong jungle village theme. The roofs can […]

Scratch built 1930s English petrol station & workshop Part III

Posted on April 26th, 2016 under , , . Posted by

Things have progressed nicely over the last week or so and I’ve now just about completed everything I wanted to do. The last few days have seen me both build and paint both the office/shop to go with the matching workshop.I’ve also added a pair of scra…

PlastCraft Curved Modular Building

Posted on April 25th, 2016 under , , , , , , . Posted by

While at Trumpeter Salute I picked up one of PlastCraft’s Designed-For-Infinity plastic pre-coloured buildings, the Curved Modular Building, from the awesome folks at Imperial Hobbies, BC’s greatest wargaming store, and the only reason I do anything in Richmond other than change buses… Anyway, the Curved Modular Building is a small building, with a footprint about … Continue reading PlastCraft Curved Modular Building

Tabletop World – stunning stuff

Posted on April 24th, 2016 under , , . Posted by

For a couple of years, I have been eyeing up the model buildings from Tabletop World (clicky linky thing) and trying to decide whether I should buy some or not. If you haven’t seen their work before, then I strongly suggest you take a look – it’s simply gorgeous. A little while ago I coughed […]