Hi All,Since I had a question about how to embed the opponent finder on one’s own blog, I made a little video. I decided to have this one unlisted as the last video I put on youtube was not very well received, and it hurt my feelings. ;)Anyway, I edite…
Posts Tagged ‘Tutorial’
By Luke Melia
War gaming hills. They are an integral part of the terrain features on all of our tables no matter what system we play. Hills also provide depth to tables, block line of site and provide cover from enemy fire. When people have asked me over the years what types of terrain they should make first for their tables, I always say “hills” without question. There are a lot of different techniques for making hills and there is, by no means, a right or a wrong way of making them. Terrain is a very personal thing for me. Ultimately you have to be happy with the way any piece of terrain looks on your table. To that end, I would remind everyone that this is the way I like to build hills an it works well for me. If you have some alternate methods please feel free to share on our forum.
I am going to show you a couple of different types of hills and rocky outcroppings that I have been working on.
I had a request from a client recently to magnetise the weapons on a space marine Drop Pod, and as I keep thinking that I should try my best to give back to the community in the form of tutorials, I decided this was the perfect opportunity to try it out! Magnetising Weapons on a Space … Continue reading Magnetising a Space Marine Drop Pod →
Painting the feathers on the Ravenwing should not be my priority. I seem to be saying that a lot actually. The bikes themselves are but the wings should really be done after I’ve finished the metals and the black because I’m clearly going to screw it u…
Despite the arm pain I actually managed to do some bits. In fact because I took the day off to see the doctor I had some free time and in a moment of madness I just decided to knock out a couple more Vortex templates. Having enjoyed the fun of them in …
I’ve spent a little time recently building minis from Knight Models to clear some space in my cupboard and decided it might be useful to do a little “How To” on pinning and tab pinning models to bases. A lot of people will already know these, or at lea…
This time, Adam and I got down to some business on skin tones. Featuring our lovely model Lathiem Oakleaf. Thanks to everyone at Tabletop Minons!Enjoy!
Second side plate completed. I think I’m getting the hang of this now, I mean it’s not the most amazing sculpting, it’s pretty basic in fact but it’s a level I comfortable with, both in results and effort involved to achieve it. I know I could a…
This work was all done before Throne of Skulls, managed to get the third Chitin plate doneand the flesh joints between the smaller spines.They’re really quite effective.Looking forward to getting the side plates done next.Fourth spine plate done.I’ve a…
How to build a castle: part IV – bricks&colour testing// Budowa zamku Drakenborg – próbne malowanie cegieł
During the painting I used different shades of beiges and grays. After applying the basic color I filled some of the gaps between bricks with plaster. Excess was wiped off with paper. Unfortunately when everything was dried I had to reapply basic colours and start the painting process from the beginning.
Next I applied some highlights using dry brush technique. I also added several different colors to the bricks using washes and diluted acrylics.
I covered the lower parts of the walls with thinned green paint to imitate the moss.
Ostatnim etapem było nałożenie różnokolorowych pigmentów. Testowałem kolory, które potencjalnie mogłyby pasować więc w różnych miejscach użyłem różnych barw by sprawdzić finalny efekt każdego z nich. Poniżej możecie zobaczyć to co wyszło po zakończeniu prac nad murkami.
To sum up , I think I will finally use the painting scheme which will be close to the one that you can see in the leftmost side of the picture. I like the effect of filled gaps between the bricks even though it is quite time consuming. I also think that I will start painting process from white undercoat to make the bricks a little brighter . I will use the pattern on the rightmost site of the picture to create the courtyard of the castle .
What do you think of this? What could be improved? Maybe you have some other ideas on the color/painting of the castle ? I look forward to your comments and suggestions.
Podsumowując, na tę chwilę uważam, że do pomalowania zamku wykorzystam schemat zbliżony do tego, który jest widoczny na murku najbliżej lewej strony zdjęcia. Podoba mi się efekt wypełnienia zaprawą odstępów między cegiełkami chociaż jest dosyć pracochłonny. Myślę też, że spróbuje wyjść od j jasnego podkładu (być może nawet białego) tak żeby szare cegły były jaśniejsze. Wzór najbardziej z prawej wykorzystam do stworzenia posadzki dziedzińca zamku.
Adepticon is just around the corner folks This time of year always carrys a lot of deadlines for me. I’m always guaranteed to paint an army for the event along with other, soft score, related items like display boards etc. A client of mine is playin…
One of the goals with the space station terrain set was to make the whole thing look like not just a collection of tactically interesting obstacles but also a (relatively) sensible, lived-in/working facility. Right now the non-cargo bay area is a bit plain, really just the Impudent Mortal walls in my collection arranged in various … Continue reading Quick Infinity Terrain: Food Booths →
The structure of the tower was made with foamboard.
Strukturę wieży wykonałem z pianki architektonicznej.
The structure was covered by 5mm thick XPS
Szkielet budowli został oklejony styrodurem o grubości 5mm (do kupienia w sklepach modelarskich lub jako podkład pod panele w sklepach budowlanych).
Using the stone I began to add texture to the walls of the tower. At this stage, I marked the spots where additional elements of the castle will be connected to the tower.
Za pomocą kamienia zacząłem nadawać fakturę ścianom wieży. Na tym etapie dopasowuje także do wieży dodatkowe elementy oraz oznaczam, w którym miejscu będzie łączyć się z murami.
Spots for tower doors were cut in the walls .
Miejsca na drzwi zostało wycięte w ścianach wieży.
The tower will be connected to the gateway by extension, which I will finish after gluing all the parts of the castle together. At this stage, I added only one additional element to the structure of the tower.
Wieża będzie się łączyć z bramą za pomocą przybudówki, którą będę wykańczał po sklejeniu elementów zamku ze sobą. Na tym etapie do wieży dodałem tylko jeden dodatkowy fragment przybudówki.
Wooden doors are made of balsa wood. Metal doors with plasticard. In a separate post I will present how to make these elements.
Drewniane drzwi zostały wykonane z balsy. Metalowe z plasticardu. W oddzielnym poście zaprezentuję, w jaki sposób wykonuję te elementy.
The tower looked quite well at this stage. It was time to add machicolations and battlements. The floor of the tower was made of a thick cardboard.
Na tym etapie wieża wyglądała już całkiem dobrze. Pozostało dodać machikuły oraz blanki. Podłogę wieży wykonałem z grubego kartonu.
The floor of the tower was made of balsa wood. I originally wanted to do it with a single sheet of a board textured with a ballpoint pen. In the end all balsa boards were glued separately. Using the old mechanical pencil I made an imitation of nails.
Podłoga wieży została wykonana z balsy. Początkowo chciałem zrobić to z pojedynczego arkuszu, a deski wyryć za pomocą długopisu. Finalnie wszystkie deski były wklejane oddzielnie. Za pomocą starego ołówka automatycznego wykonałem imitację gwoździ.
The trapdoor was also made of balsa wood. Details were made of a thin plasticard, a plastic rod and a small metal ring.
Klapa została wykonana z balsy, cienkiego plasticardu oraz plastikowego wałka, z którego zrobiłem łebki gwoździ.
After gluing the two elements it was time to add corbels.
I made it out of the cardboard, which was next covered with a self-drying clay.
Po sklejeniu obu elementów czas na dodanie kroksztynów na których opierają się blanki.
Wykonałem je z kartonu, który następnie pokryłem samoutwardzalną gliną.
It's all for today. Thanks for visiting and see you next time!
To wszystko na dziś. Dzięki za odwiedziny i do następnego razu!
While staring at a recent project, the idea came that something was missing. Deciding to go with every idea that came to me on this one, I went about making a wee tiny rose.What you’ll need:Tinfoil Hobby KnifeBrass rodGlue Wire ClipperTweezer…
Quick Tutorial for Making Books for Your Diormas This tutorial doesn’t make you produce the best looking books but it will show how to make quick and decent looking books using very simple components….
For the latest video with Tabletop Minions, I started work on Lathiem Oakleaf from the Enigma miniatures range. Since we want to keep these video decently short the decision was to break the paint job down. It’s not my usual approach to isolate areas a…
The recessed bases supplied with the Wrath of Kings require a different approach to the flat topped bases more usually supplied with miniatures from other ranges.I have seen bases that use the standard techniques within the recess and look good doing i…
I know what you’re thinking, this is not a Dark Angel Tactical Squad… ahh, the best laid plans of Gaunts and Rippers… so I write my confession, plan ahead for what I’m going to do next and then immediately go for the thing I wasn’t going to do. But…
I’d like to think there’s no shame in loving those because as long as it makes us happy and annoys no one, then it just makes the world a better place.
Well the model above just happens to be one of those. I must have discovered it in a WD a loooong time ago and I was immediately shocked by the concept.
The latest issue of Wargames Soldiers and Strategy (issue 83) contains an article written by me called Make MDF Look Real or Tarting-up MDF.The basis MDF building from Timeline Miniatures was used as the core of this re-built 28mm farm building or out-…
I have been very busy recently and haven’t had much time to build any new scratch-built Frostgrave terrain. However, I did back printablescenery.com with their Winterdale Kickstarter campaign to produce a range of wargaming scenery that people can…
Building No. 2 finished. The beams have been painted with a black/brown mix as I felt the pure black was a little too stark and the windows have been painted blue with white highlights.Further detail painting was done around the chimney and doors.The f…
As per usual on my birthday it’s time to give a present away to the readers and what better than the next installment of my Generatorium design for my Print & Play building. It’s also timely in that this could form part of your Google AdSense compe…
The painting started with an all over white or off-white base coat. I then painted the roof tiles in a red/orange mix, varying the colour by adding orange or red as I painted the roof and picking out odd tiles in a lighter or darker colour.At the same …