Posts Tagged ‘Tutorial’

Combat Weathering

Posted on July 18th, 2015 under , , , . Posted by

Well it’s been a busy couple of weeks and while I’ve managed to get a lot of gaming orientated things done they have all been little bits of different things and nothing has been finished. Despite that all I did … Continue reading

Hobbytipp: Wie ich Gesichter bemale

Posted on July 16th, 2015 under . Posted by

Heute möchte ich Euch einen neuen Hobbytipp zeigen: wie ich Gesichter bemale.

Ich sage nicht, dass das hier die beste, einfachste, schnellste oder schönste Art ist, nach der man seine Gesichter bemalen soll, aber es ist die, die mir aktuell am besten gefällt.

Die Bilder habe ich versucht, extra so groß wie möglich zu halten, damit man den Farbauftrag auch erkennen kann.

Viel Spaß!

Also, fangen wir an. Wir brauchen zunächst mal ein paar Köpfe. Zur besseren Sichtbarkeit habe ich die jetzt mal auf Nägel geklebt, es geht natürlich aber auch direkt an der Miniatur. Die Köpfe wurden Grundiert, die Farbe ist eigentlich egal, in meinem Fall ist es Barbarian Flesh von Army Painter.

 Als erstes bekommen beide Gesichter zwei dünne Schichten mit Medium Fleshtone.

Wenn beide Schichten getrocknet sind, schattieren wir beide Gesichter mit Army Painter Strong Tone.

Das Wash ordentlich trocknen lassen, danach malen wir alles bis auf die aller tiefsten Vertiefungen wieder in der Grundfarbe nach. Ich achte hier darauf, die Unterlippe nicht wieder mit zu bemalen …

… denn diese bekommt gleich einen eigenen Anstrich. Hierzu mischen wir Rot und unsere Hautfarbe auf unserer Nasspalette.

Mit einem dünnen Strich verleihen wir der Unterlippe (und nur der Unterlippe) ein bisschen Farbe. Merke: auch bei weiblichen Gesichtern sieht es oft besser aus, wenn man nur die Unterlippe bemalt – dann auch gern in einem kräftigeren Ton.

Eines unserer Modelle hat einen Oberlippenbart, das andere soll einen leichten Bartschatten bekommen. Dazu mischen wir eine hellere Hautfarbe (die, die wir danach auch für die ersten Hightlights nehmen wollen – in meinem Fall Flat Flesh) mit einem hellen Grau, ich nehme gerne Medium Sea Grey dafür. Das ganze wird starkt verdünnt, damit die Farbe noch ein klein wenig Transparent bleibt.

Hier sehen wir dann das Ergebnis – ein gaaanz leicht Transparenter Bartschatten.

Als nächstes hellen wir die erhabenen Bereiche (Nase, Jochbein, Kinn, Ohren, etc.) mit Flat Flesh auf.

Danach machen wir weitere Highlights mit einem noch helleren Ton, ich nehme hier Basic Skintone. Man achte darauf, hier nur noch die aller erhabensten Stellen zu erwischen. Wenn man Augen malen will, ist jetzt ein guter Zeitpunkt, um die Augäpfel schon mal ein bisschen aufzuhellen, damit das Weiß besser deckt. Ich verzichte auch gerne mal auf Augen, aber der Vollständigkeit halber zeige ich das hier so gut es eben geht.

Jetzt geht es langsam dem Ende zu, das Kopftuch bekommt eine Grundierung mit British Red Coat Shade.

 Die Hautfarbe ist getrocknet, jetzt vorsichtig(!) die Augäpfel mit Matt White betonen.

Zum Abschluss setzen wir Pupillen, ich nehme dazu gerne Black Grey. Das Kopftuch bekommt erste Highlights mit British Red Coat.

Letzte Highlights und ein paar feine Striche für die Stoffstruktur mit British Red Coat Light und fertig ist das Kopftuch.

Den Schalenhelm grundiere ich erst mit Gun Metal und schattiere ihn danach mit Army Painter Dark Tone. Ich mag diese Helme und Rüstungsteile gern sehr dunkel, das erinnert mich an die dunklen aus dem Mittelalter und der Renaissance, was mir persönlich besser gefällt, als die Hollywood-Silberrüstungen, die man oft sieht. Aber das ist natürlich – wie alles im Leben – Geschmackssache.

So, das wars, fertig sind die beiden Gesichter.
War doch gar nicht so schwer, oder? :-)

Gruß,
Thomas

Creating Objectives for Epic

Posted on July 15th, 2015 under , , , . Posted by

I originally published this article on Dropship in the 90’s and is part of the archives I brought across when the site was retired. As a result many of the images won’t be that high a quality by today’s standards. That’s progress for you ~ CW Objectives play a huge part …

Making Blast Markers

Posted on July 14th, 2015 under , , , . Posted by

I originally published this article on Dropship in the 90’s and is part of the archives I brought across when the site was retired. As a result many of the images won’t be that high a quality by today’s standards. That’s progress for you ~ CW Terrain making for me is …

Infinity: Token effort

Posted on July 9th, 2015 under , , , . Posted by

while I was over in Ireland Killian showed me a set of homemade tokens for Infinity created using self adhesive acrylic domes. I thought the idea was pure genius so I’ve replicated the method here. All you need are a set of card tokens (order or otherwise), these can be …

Make your own Vortex template

Posted on July 7th, 2015 under , , , , , , , . Posted by

I’ve nto really had a need for a Vortex template before, but then the Ravenwing Dark Talon’s Rift Cannon was upgraded to give the potential to create one so I suddenly had the urge to get one. Of course they’re quite difficult to get hold of and on ebay they’re going for about £15! So I wondered about alternative options. I still recall Ron From the Warp’s awesome ‘Wiffle ball’ tutorial but funnily enough it was Rob’s tutorial from warhammer 39999 that I remember most. But Wiffle balls don’t seem to be easily available in the UK so I got to thinking about other 3″ diameter objects

And I already had them! A while back I helped my son make a Neon atom for his physics class and the centre-piece containing the electrons, protons, neutrons [delete as appropriate science folk, I think the electrons are aound the outside?] was a clear plastic Christmas bauble. now I only needed one but my local art/craft store had a pack of 10 and they’re just 4mm wider than a standard small blast so I thought I’d have a crack at making my own, so first up I cut off the hanging tab.

Now the difference with these is you can spray them on the inside to retain a super high gloss finish. So I covered my hands in a plastic bag and sprayed above the bauble with white, trying to ensure spots of paints dropped onto the bauble y’know for that spacy look.

And it came out alright, but while I was taking the pictures I missed the opportunity to drag some of the bigger spots with a cocktail stick for some weird warp lightning.

And therefore I sprayed some on some cardboard and tried to paint it on, with limited success and actually picked up some of the Red Oxide undercoat when the solvents managed to melt the primer on the spray box I was using. Still it was a first draft so I didn’t mind so much.

I then did the same with the Red Oxide primer to add some nice colour tints to it, like gaseous nebulas and then it was a coat of black spray primer.

And I ended up with this! OK, it’s not perfect but Ron took 12 attempts to get happy with his and Rob did three. As I only had the one coloured spray can and paused to take pictures inbetween I was a bit limited but for practically zero cost I’m chuffed with the results especially the high gloss finish, which is the advantage of spraying inside the bauble. Of course you can paint the outside too if you want a matt finish but that’ll require a varnish to protect your handiwork.

I did actually put an LED candle inside to see if it would add an unearthly glow in the warp but it was a bit pants, and even worse in the dark as it shone through all the black spray like it wasn’t even there!

Anyway, for a 5-10 minutejob I’m pretty pleased with the results, so thought I’d share an alternative way to make the Vortex templates

My attempt at painting checks

Posted on July 7th, 2015 under , , , , . Posted by

Hi All,I wanted to start painting some checked patterns on my goblins and hadn’t really done it in awhile.I wanted to do more of a lozenge than a square. after some attempts on paper that looked like 90 degree rotated squares, I found this youtube vide…

The Helpful Hobby Guide : Sculpting tools

Posted on July 6th, 2015 under , . Posted by

It will come as no surprise if I tell you I am not much of a sculptor…
However, part of our hobby involves using putty at one stage or the other (unless you’re a plastic-only kind of modellist) to simply fill gaps, repair damaged detailsor even add new ones for conversions.
In all those circumstances, you have to learn by trying. learning from other people’s experience though is allowing shortcuts though.
Though many painting techniques are covered in magasines and all, I’ve always felt that you don’t get much sculpting tips or tricks and that basic techniques aren’t as well known as they are for painting.
The aim of this post is is no way to tell anyone what to use as I’m clearly out of my jurisdiction here but it’s aimed to share with you what I use and learn from your tips and advice, critics and comments.
The tool below is the first sculpting tool I got when I started pushing putty back in 2000. You can see it’s not the most precise of tools. I think when I got it it had already been used for dentistry or something has it was clearly not brand new. It did what it had though and I quickly switched from Milliput to Green Stuff (I won’t go too far on the subject of putties as it clearly exceeds my very limited knowledge of the only 2 I use).

Read Moar Skullz »

Making Sci-Fi Bases

Posted on July 5th, 2015 under , , , , , , . Posted by

So I recently picked a set of new figures which were just too good to put onto a regular grit/sand base. Unfortunately a quick hunt through my mammoth box of bases didn’t turn up enough Sci-Fi bases of the right … Continue reading

Painting Realistic blood and gore tutorial

Posted on July 5th, 2015 under , , , . Posted by

I have been using a method for creating blood and gore effects for my Space Wolves, and have had a few requests over time on how I achieve it, so I thought I would knock up a quick tutorial to show those of you interested how to do it.First the equipm…

Tutorial: Heat Staining Engines

Posted on July 1st, 2015 under , , , , , , . Posted by

Tagline: Project Thunderbolt – build log part six and a half. 

Yeah, I know, it’s no "in space no-one can hear you scream" is it? Today, I present a mini-update because I realised that I had something that I could easily step-by-step and would take up a ton of room in another update. So a tutorial is born!

This is a surprisingly nippy technique, took about 15 minutes to do both

Rocky Beginnings – Part 3

Posted on June 28th, 2015 under , , , , . Posted by

If you’ve been following parts 1 and 2 of this series you will know that I’m now into the final painting phase of my rocky outcrops. At the end of last week I had painted my rocks in a medium … Continue reading

Star Wars Armada: Painting the X-Wings

Posted on June 24th, 2015 under , , , . Posted by

After the success I had painting the tiny TIE Fighter squadrons for Armada, I figured I ought to have a go at the Rebel X-Wing squadrons as well. Whereas the TIE Fighters are pretty uniform and a simple monochrome palette of greys and black wash can bring them to life, …

Rocky Beginnings – Part 2

Posted on June 21st, 2015 under , , , , . Posted by

If you saw part 1 of this post then you will know that I’ve been making some large rocks for my Dead Man’s Hand table (and others of course). This week I’ve been working on the rocks I carved previously … Continue reading

Laser Cut Shipping Container Build

Posted on June 18th, 2015 under , , , , , . Posted by

Last year I designed a shipping container kit so that I could build some terrain for my Across The Dead Earth games.I know there are already plenty of companies out there that produce shipping container kits, but none of them really worked for me. some…

Rocks Beginning – Part 1

Posted on June 16th, 2015 under , , , , . Posted by

If you saw my last weekend post you will know that I’ve recently finished making a mine entrance for my Dead Man’s Hand board. This week I thought I’d make a start at some large rocks to give my board … Continue reading

NOCF 2015 – Drop Pod tutorial!

Posted on June 11th, 2015 under , , , . Posted by

A little while back I posted about assembling some Drop Pods for one of this year’s NOVA Open Charitable Foundation Charity Raffle armies – The Sons Of Orar Space Marines, to be exact. At the time I asked if anyone would be interested in a walk-through of my build and paint. There were a few who expressed interest, so here we are : )

After going through and cleaning all the parts for three Drop Pods, I started to create the sub-assemblies. You can see them above. They basically breakdown to:

• Engine and stormbolter
• Center console and harnesses
• Base and doors
• Five fins

Here’s what it all looks like when three sets of sub-assemblies are gathered in a pile. After this, all parts (except the fins) were primed black. More on the fins later.

The bases, engines, and consoles were all heavily dry brushed with VGC Tinny Tin.

Everything was then dry brushed with AP Gun Metal.

I then washed the parts with my “super secret wash”.

And drybrushed everything with VMA Aluminium.

I flipped over the base and repainted the armor panels black…

…and then masked off the engine base.

I sprayed the tips of the doors with Mephiston Red  (not pictured) and then I used a custom cut mask/sheet of styrene, and sprayed the rest of each door.

Here’s a shot of the doors before removing the masking tape.

I then painted the edges of edge internal door with Averland Sunset (shaded with Skrag Brown).

These hazard stripes were hand painted – nine per side, 90 per Pod, 270 in all.

Back to the fins. I primed them white, shaded then with some Mechanics Grey, painted the panels black, masked them off and finally sprayed them with Mephiston Red.

After some detailing on the parts, here’s a look at a set ready for assembly.

On each of the center consoles I painted a silhouette of an Eldar Craftworld, with three glowing points representing the three Drop Pods.

They Pods were then assembled; glue the consoles to the base then one fin in place; glue the engine to the fin then glue the remaining fins in place.

I then gave the Drop Pods a healthy dose of chipping and weathering.

And here they are. All ready to deliver Sons Of Orar directly to the heart of the Alaitoc Craftworld.

In the coming days we’ll finally have photos of two of the NOCF Charity Raffle armies ready to go up online. When we do I’ll be shouting it from the rooftops! : )

Cheers
Dave

Tutorial: Painting the Herald of Nurgle

Posted on June 9th, 2015 under , , . Posted by

Hi All, It’s Ksusha here. I’ve got a tutorial video for Herald of Nurgle. It’s probably my most thought through video to date. I really tried to make the steps logical and easy to follow, as well as the visuals and voice over in place. After all I’m far from pro at my editing. The tutorial covers a few useful techniques.

More after the jump

Creating snow bases

Posted on June 2nd, 2015 under , , , . Posted by

Howdy folks. I thought I would do a quick tutorial on how I make my snowy bases. I like my method as it can make fluffy fresh snow, or more icy frozen snow without having to use expensive crushed glass and such like, is fairly quick and simple to create, and looks good to boot :)

First thing to do is base your miniature with sand ect and get that painted ready for the flock. I paint mine grey as I like the contrast between the white snow and the dark slate and rubble, but you can use any colour you choose to do this And it will still look good.

 

Next you will need a pot of Gale force nine snow flock (I think Woodland scenics also do a similar product), a spatula of some sort, pva glue (Elmers glue is apparently the same stuff for you lot over the pond :) ), and a mixing surface. I do not use the GW stuff to create my snow as it is more like a static grass than a flock, and I do not think it will work as well, but you could give it a try on a spare base and see if that is all you can get.

 

 

Blob a large amount of pva glue onto your palette and slowly add the flock and mix it all together until you have a sloppy mixture. How much or little you add of the flock depends on what you want your snow to look like. The sloppier the mixture the more icy your snow will look, whereas if you want your snow to be nice and fluffy you will want the mix to be alot drier (but not too dry).




 

Once this is mixed add pva glue to the base of your model where you want the snow to sit. This creates a better bond to the base for your mixture, but also creates a nice graduating effect on the snow when you get to the final stage.

 

 

 

 

 

Spatula your snow mixture onto the base where you have added the pva glue patches and spread around as needed (this is where you create the hight and depth of your snow mounds, so pile it up high if you want nice big drifts or spread it thin if you want a more flat blob of snow).

 

 

 

While the snow mixture is still wet we add the final dusting of snow on the top. Sprinkle a healthy amount of flock onto the top of the mounds of snow you have created, and then shake it back off. The flock will stick to the parts you have mixed and glued, creating the final snow effect (this is where adding the pva glue to the base has an effect, as it created a nice graduation to your mound of snow and makes it look more realisitc).

 

 

 

 

 

After application

Let it all dry and hey presto! A good looking snowy base :). You can choose how much or little snow you add to your bases, and this method will still work fantastically well, even if you want the whole base to be covered by snow.




 

After drying

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And thats a wrap :) let me know what you think of this tutorial. Any feedback is much appreciated.

NafNaf out!

 

 

Posted with BlogsyPosted with Blogsy

Ready Play – Guide to Speeding Up Tournament Play

Posted on June 1st, 2015 under , . Posted by

Slow Play makes Steven sad.Tournaments need to move along for most people to have the most fun.  With the scoring in Flames of War the way it is, it is very hard to win a tournament dealing with a timeout, as both players lose.  If your play …

Star Wars Armada: Painting the TIE Fighters

Posted on May 29th, 2015 under , , , , . Posted by

How to paint your tiny TIE Fighters for Star wars Armada. This is purely the method I came up with and isn’t any kind of definitive guide as there are probably lots of different ways you could go about it, they yield better or faster results and I certainly encourage experimentation. That said, this particular […]

Star Wars Armada: Painting the TIE Fighters

Posted on May 29th, 2015 under , , , . Posted by

How to paint your tiny TIE Fighters for Star wars Armada. This is purely the method I came up with and isn’t any kind of definitive guide as there are probably lots of different ways you could go about it, they yield better or faster results and I certainly encourage …

How to: Easy Fantasy Pedestal Mounted Stone Statues

Posted on May 24th, 2015 under , . Posted by

The first step of this fantasy pedestal mounted stone statues tutorial is to gather the needed supplies. To create the pedestal for the actual statue you will need some square and circle shapes of the desired measurements. These can be either cut from …

UCM Digital Camo for Dropzone Commander

Posted on May 18th, 2015 under , , , . Posted by

If there’s been a theme to this weekends painting it’s probably “multi-tasking”. With a number of projects needing curing time between priming or varnishing, I’ve been jumping back and forth between three different miniatures over the course of the two days. For Flames it’s been the Vietnam Huey “Hog” and …

Tutorial: MSU Army List Design

Posted on May 7th, 2015 under , . Posted by

The MSU (Multiple Small Unit) approach to army list design was commonly understood and widely employed many years ago in the latter half of 5th Ed. It fell out of favour in 6th Ed, but strangely has not resurged in 7th Ed—even though it naturally synergises with Maelstrom missions and counters ‘titanhammer’ very nicely. With Codex Eldar Craftworlds sparking a new wave of D weapon proliferation, I expect MSU to quickly regain its rightful place as king of army list paradigms—if enough players understand how, and why, to do it.
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