I recently came across this thread and thought it was well worth re-posting as the techniques used are quite amazing. This is the work of a truly great model diorama master.Image used without permission to illustrate the postSeriously, if you have time…
Posts Tagged ‘Tutorial’
Well, that’s it, I finally got my Realm of Battle Board done, in time for ‘Dave’s 40k @ 40′ tournament. This weekend me and my gaming crew will be having a mini tournament much like our ‘Game of Throne of Skulls’ this time it’s to celebrate m…
Part 01 | Part 2 The first bake seemed to go OK, the legs have set well and it means I can hold them while I work on the upper torso.I started off by filling out the torso to get the anatomy more or less correct. Then moved on to adding the docto…
In part one I looked at the construction of the armature. Now I am ready to start some of the actual sculpting work.After filing out the armature with a hard epoxy putty (Sylmasta A+B), I also used a little ProCreate to bulk out the feet. Once th…
I have haven’t had much time to do any commercial sculpting over the past year or so, been to busy with other model making projects. However, I have just started my second job for Wild House Models. Last year I sculpted their Captain Kass figure, as pa…
It’s funny how just a hint of sunshine is enough for me to gamble again by spray painting these boards. So despite the crisp weather and quite blowy conditions I just went and sprayed them [will I ever learn?].And it actually worked! of course I don’t …
I know you’ll say I don’t need to apologise for lack of posting but I will, it’s only polite afterall. So, sorry for not posting. I’ve been doing school Governor duties and just appointed a new headmaster. It’s actually had little impact on my hobby bu…
In this post I will show how I build roofs, in particular, how I built the tiled roof for The Horseshoe Forge.Image One – I have already posted details of how I use scrap paper strips to build up the ‘hills and valleys’ of a traditionally built wooden …
(Don’t hate me for the title, it just happened…)
Hi folks, a fun one today, these three have been a blast:
must stop painting hard to photograph brown tones…
These are a the latest commission and are a mix of the new plastic Scions and Victor…
In the past I had a technique I thought was OK for ice; and it was OK, just not great. However, I’ve since discovered one product that makes far more convincing ice. By discovered I don’t mean that nobody knows about it, just that using it is new to me. That product is Vallejo’s Still […]
So Thor has been after me about my basing, and by after me like 3 months ago he said I should do a tutorial. I have had this rip tide for I think 2 years now as part of a diorama I did for the Standish Standoff. I have had it the cabinet collecting dust […]
Dziś uraczymy Was kolejnym poradnikiem pokazującym krok po kroku w jaki sposób wykonujemy drzewa do naszych makiet.
- klej do drewna
- papier toaletowy albo gaza
- gładź szpachlowa
1. Cut two or three pieces of wire, each 15-20 cm long. Bend all pieces in half of their length and start to twist them together. You don’t have to twist them perfectly, we both think that it’s better when the tree is a bit crooked. We decided to make a small orchard, so our trees can’t be too straight.
1. Ucinamy 2-3 kawałki drutu, każdy po 15-20 cm. Składamy wszystkie na pół i łapiąc za końcówki zaczynamy skręcać. Nie muszą być skręcone idealnie równo, według nas lepiej drzewo wygląda kiedy jest lekko koślawe (my robimy drzewa bardziej sadownicze, więc w naszym wypadku nieregularność i krzywe gałęzie były oczywiste).
2. When we achieve half a length of our tree, we start to make some boughs. Bend back one of the wires and then twist it as you can see in the beneth photo. Then cut it and you will get two smaller branches. Proceed with the rest of wires in the same manner to make similar boughs.
2. Mniej więcej gdy dojdziemy do połowy wymyślonej przez nas wysokości drzewka, zaczynamy „wypuszczać” konary. Odginamy jeden z podwójnych kawałków i skręcamy do połowy długości, następnie końcówkę rozcinamy i tak powstają dwie gałązki. Resztę drutów skręcamy dalej.
3. This is the moment when you have to make a base for a crown of the three. Separate the wires and turn them a bit, then cut them in half and bend them in different directions.
3. Dochodzimy już do momentu, kiedy trzeba utworzyć koronę drzewa. Rozdzielamy druty i skręcamy jeszcze kawałek. Potem tak jak w przypadku konaru rozcinamy i wyginamy pojedyncze gałązki w różne strony.
4. The wire tree is finally ready! Now we need a toilet papier and PVA glue mixed with water in proportion 2:1. Cut the paper into stripes, wet it in the mixture and wrap it up around the wires.
Druciany szkielet gotowy! Czas nadać drzewom objętości. Do tego celu użyjemy papieru toaletowego albo gazy oraz białego kleju do drewna wymieszanego z wodą w proporcji 2:1. Papier (lub gazę) tniemy na paski i mocząc w mieszaninie kleju z wodą owijamy druciki. Praca ta potrafi być irytująca w przypadku papieru, ponieważ często się rozrywa.
5. After covering all wires with paper let our trees get dry. After that time i use plaster finish to make trees more natural.
Po pokryciu szkieletu drzewa papierem i ich wyschnięciu nakładam cienką warstwę gładzi szpachlowej. Wówczas drzewko wygląda bardziej naturalnie.
Stay tuned. We will soon post second part of this tutorial about painting and making foliage for our trees.
Wkrótce druga część poradnika traktująca o samodzielnym przygotowaniu listowia z gąbki oraz o malowaniu drzewek.
If you are looking to improve your painting skills you should take a look at this!The studio Giraldez worked on a book containing some tips and tricks, you can see more details on the studio’s blog here: http://studiogiraldez.blogspot.co.uk/The An…
|At first glance what did you think this was?|
So I come home that night and find out that the deadline isn’t next week, it’s tomorrow! I’d been telling him for weeks to get it sorted and he got confirmation on Monday from his teacher it was next week only for the teacher to shift the goalposts! So we go to it, quick and dirty. I strip a bunch of twigs out, using a clothes peg to hold them together.
I then used some spare fishing wire to tie the base together. Ordinarily this wouldn’t be enough but time was short. I’d have probably coated the ‘trunk’ in PVA so it became a solid mass. For this I want it to be as natural as possible, luckily the fishing line isn’t too noticeable. I then hot melt glue them to the aluminium discs. I was a little concerned about the blue and black glue sticks but hoped the basing would cover them up.
However, for the purpose of potential gaming terrain these are quite a bit taller than they need to be. I’m sure with some clippers they could be trimmed down.
However, these all came together in a couple of hours. For 40k I’d spray them white and be done with it, maybe even add some yellow/orange/red flock. The only concerns are the twigs do have a waxy/dusty feel to them so I question how well spray paint would adhere to the twigs.
Additionally the twigs feel brittle so I would question their durability for continuous use, however I did find even some of the thinner branches particularly difficult to cut with heavy duty scissors so perhaps my fears would be unfounded? But that’s a pretty good forrest for £6 in materials and there are still four discs remaining and practically a whole broom [I only did 6 stands of trees for convenience]
Lastly we based them up – PVA and sharp sand. For his project I wanted to keep things natural and luckily my sharp sand mix is similar to the ground print out. The only real concern is whether the PVA can dry in time. I propped this box on top of a radiator and hit it with a heat gun for a bit so fingers crossed that helps speed the drying process, it’s got 8 hours until school at least.
Of course the heat gun started to melt the fishing line a little bit but I stopped well before these things burst apart, although I think the hot melt glue probably is holding these things together quite well.
Anyway, if you’re looking for trees I think these are quite nifty and don’t require a huge amount of effort. The most difficult thing is tying the knots in the fishing line but that may be just overkill. Some of the bases I just put hot melt glue on and stuck three or four twigs in without tying them together. If these get returned I’ll paint them up so you could see simple yet effective they can be.
As a matter of house keeping it seems the PTBs have now decided to restrict access to blogs for me. funnily enough I can still edit and post just not view. There were always some blogs that I couldn’t see if it was referrenced as a ‘games’ blog, regardless of what sort of game but now all blogs have been denied. So repsonding to comments and viewing others blogs may be less timely.
I came across some more links and thought I should bring them to your attention. It’s hard to believe that I last wrote on this subject all the way back in August of last year.It all started with a link posted by a guy (I’m assuming a guy) named Garfy,…
I did a snow basing tutorial previously and shortly after I found a tutorial using a different snow basing method. I experimented with the method I found and discovered I liked it a lot more than what I was doing. So, I figured I’d add a revised version to the site to cover the method […]
Recently on the internets you may have seen a number of products that are moldable thermoplastics – materials that when heated [usually in warm water] you can then remold into any shape you wis. Recently I picked some up from the Aladdins cave of art shops in Manchester – Fred Aldous. This 100g bag was just £3.35
As you can see it all comes in pellets and what i was hoping to do was just make a quick cast of a dreadnought foot to go in my destroyed dreadnought crater. So here is the polymorph in it’s raw form.
When dropped into hot water it all clumps together, although I fihed it out a bit quick – inexperience.
This is the Polymorph pushed on top, as you can see some granules had not melted enough to go transparent
Eventually I got the foot out but I don’t hold out much hope for this as a puch mold as extracting a milliput foot would be difficult as there is absolutely not flexibility in the Polymorph once set. Also the detail is patchy, I thinnk because the beeds hadn’t all melted properly. I’m sure I’ll find some more uses for this though, G.O.D. if they had this in a transparent version I’d have so much fun!
Anyway, it was worth a shot and I’ve still got loads more to play around with but just thought I’d share my experiment.
In my last post I ran through the development and construction of the Fuel Storage Tank terrain piece.This time I am going to go through the painting and finishing process.I mentioned in the previous article that I had already given the model a coat of…
I have started to put together a new collection of scenery for our new Post Apocalyptic (PA) campaign (we will be using the Across The Dead Earth rules).
Seemed like a good time for a quick run through of terrain construction.
I have had these tubes lying around the workshop for some time, and I have been looking for a good project to use them in. As a useful piece of PA terrain, a fuel storage tank seems idea, it’ll offer plenty of play potential, giving several locations to put figures in, as well as being a possible objective. So that is the plan then.
For the base, I used a piece of 6mm MDF. I sanded the edges down to meet the surrounding terrain.
Next up I cut (using the laser cutter) a walkway to go half way up and plates for the top of the three tubes.
I didn’t want the top of the main tank to be flat as I felt that would be a little boring. SO I made a quick visit to the local Hobbycraft store and found a polystyrene sphere.
I sliced the top off, making sure that this dome would allow enough room to get a 30mm base all around the top of the tank.
I also laser cut a couple of dozen steps.
Dry fitting the pieces you can start to see the basic layout. I needed to cut a section out of the walkway, to allow for the steps to get through it. So I did it at this stage.
At this point I glued the three tubes to the base, glued the tops and the walkway on and then gave the whole thing a coat of MDF sealer, to stop moisture absorption later on. Then I glued the steps in place. Now as the tube is just (very) thick cardboard I found that the steps would pull away from the tube, and also tended to droop (I could have pinned them, but I was in a bit of a hurry at this stage and I thought I could get away with it, oh well lesson learned).
I didn’t want to pull all the steps off again, so instead I laser cut some supports to go underneath them. Along with this I also cut some piece to take a handrail, or rope.
Next up, gluing these pieces in place. I should have measured the spacing, but to be honest i just did it by, and I don’t think that it looks too bad.
This got me thinking about the “railings”, I was considering using a fine cord, but with a little investigation I found I could get two metres of 2mm beading chain for around £2, which I promptly ordered. Hopefully it would fit though the holes on the uprights…
I wanted to have some pipes connecting the three tubes . So first I found a piece of plastic girder and cut it at 90degrees, to act as a support for the pipes. Next I cut and bent various pieces of plastic tube and rod. I bent by holding it over a lighter for a couple of seconds. This works well for rod, but the tube tends to fold rather than bending. Still with a bit of filling and filing I got it to look reasonably good. Please remember, this build is going to be dirtied down and made to look abandoned, so will be quite a lot of room to hide imperfections.
I glued the pipes in place and added a pipe running directly between the two small tanks, and also a waste run-off pipe on one of them…
That worked well and I felt it looked fairly “industrial” without getting it too bogged down with detail that could get damaged on the gaming table. I wanted to keep the tops of the two small tanks fairly flat so that an intrepid sniper, or watchman could get up there if he wanted to, still they do look a bit plain at this stage, maybe I will have to add a little more to them.
On to the top of the main tank. I glued the polystyrene dome in the middle and then painted it with a nice thick coat of emulsion. This protects the polystyrene from more aggressive substances that may dissolve it, such as some types of spray paint. I wasn’t happy with the finish, as it was still clearly a piece of polystyrene, so smoothed some air drying woodfiller over it, allowed that to dry and then sanded it down. Much better!
Another coat of emulsion and a bit more sanding and I was finally satisfied with the finish. The dome was still a bit boring, so I decided to add a hatch at the top of the dome.
As I had the laser cut hatch design sitting on my computer this seemed like a good way to add a bit of interest to one of the smaller tubes, and as they match, it also ties the design together…
The base needed a bit more detail too, so I decided to add some kind of control panel to one of the tanks.
I engraved the screen keyboard and other detail and cut the piece with the laser cutter again. Simple but effective.
Now, the hatch on the smaller tube really needed a ladder to give access, so this finished off most of the structure of the model.
In the next article I will move on to the painting.
How I paint stonework.In this Blog and in my modelling books (see links to top right of this page), I regularly comment on the importance of painting natural looking stonework. I am currently working on a project that should be featured in print someti…
Hi folks, remember this: Windmills… Part 1? Don’t blame you, it was back in October, granted, the very last day of October but still, that was a long time back. To be honest, it’s been a dry spell for hobby for me. It’s actually been two full months …
Hey all, since I started re-painting my dark eldar Kabal, I’ve had loads of comments about the purple (well, a few. Ok two) and how I go about it. So here we go – my recipe for purple. Or more specifically the various different purple that I use (and y…