Posts Tagged ‘Tutorial’

Reinforced Concrete

Posted on February 7th, 2016 under , , , , , , , , . Posted by

For some time now I’ve been looking for ways to make my modern war/Post Apocalypse scenery look more realistic. I’ve wanted to give reinforced concrete a go for some time and so recently decided it was time to make some. … Continue reading

‘nids part 183 – Tyranid Void Shield Generator part 4.

Posted on February 7th, 2016 under , , , , , , , , , . Posted by

Well this just happened! With all the mixed feelings about my other projects every time I enter the shed I’ve seen this thing languishing on the shelf. September was the last time it got any attention, although there were other things that definitely t…

Oldehammer Building No.1 – part two

Posted on February 5th, 2016 under , , . Posted by

Part two – The Texturing.I mixed up some uPVA glue, ready-mixed filler and fine sand and applied it to the whole of the model with a large brush. The texturing coat acts as a sealing layer as well a adding interest to the simple structure.Once the init…

AHPV VI: Redoubt Tutorial

Posted on February 2nd, 2016 under , , , . Posted by

 The 3rd bonus round of the AHPC was defensive terrain and I submitted the artillery redoubt pictured.  While based on some American Civil War artillery emplacements near DC the terrain piece is designed to be used  for any blackpowder e…

Oldehammer Building No.1 – part one

Posted on February 1st, 2016 under , , . Posted by

As I have already stated in my earlier post, this is a project that I have wanted to work on for some time.Oldehammer Building number one – The Construction.Image Two – Shows the Games Workshop card building from Bloodbath at Orcs Drift – the insp…

Samson goes to the movies, Part 3!

Posted on January 28th, 2016 under , , . Posted by

Yet another installment in the video series I’m taking part in with Adam and co at Tabletop Minions. This time about the base I created for Lathiem Oakleaf from Enigma Miniatures. Lathiem will be popping up in more videos as we cover the other are…

Frostgrave Scenery Project – Magic Circles (Teleport Discs)

Posted on January 19th, 2016 under , , , , . Posted by

This is the shortest post yet and the simplest for me to make.The scenario in the main rulebook calls for 4 two inch diameter discs to act as teleport points around the table. I had planned to make these up and laser cut them, however, I came across th…

Frostgrave Scenery Project – Trees

Posted on January 12th, 2016 under , , , , , , , . Posted by

After a couple of rather long projects I have a couple of quicker ones to show.
First up we have some trees.
I bought a couple of bags of wintery trees from an Ebay dealer in China. The trees are supplied with the snow already on them, but just pieces of wire coming out of the trunk. For the two packs they cost around £16.
To base them I cut and sanded some random shapes out of some scraps of 6mm MDF. The edges are sanded down to the table level with the plan that they will look like snow drifts once complete.
I drilled 2mm holes where the trees were to be placed and glued them in with PVA woodglue.

Once the trees were firmly stuck in place I moved on to finishing the bases. Normally I would add sand at this point, but as they were snow covered I skipped this stage. I simply applied a nice thick coat of white emulsion paint and while the paint was still wet I sprinkled Woodland Scenics Soft Flake Snow over them.

I will give them all a spray coat of matt varnish to hold the foliage and snow in place.

A nice simple little project that took very little time at all…

How to build a castle: part I – something about inspirations // Budowa zamku Drakenborg: część I – inspiracje

Posted on January 8th, 2016 under , , , , , , , , . Posted by

Hello there again!
Welcome to our first entry of “How to build a castle”. In this series of posts we will try to show and describe the successive stages of small stronghold construction. Knowing our pace, the project may have difficulty to be completed in 2016, however one should always set target to himself at the start;) We are currently at the stage of conceptual work and design. We have not yet decided whether it should be an enclosed construction which can be placed anywhere on the table or should it have a semi-opened structure, so that you can move the models in it. In the second case, the castle will always have to be placed near the edge of the table and only front part of the castle would be built. We have already spent about 6 hours and have not yet achieved any significant progress… Finding inspiration and choosing concept arts proved to be very long lasting. In the first entry we want to show you pictures and scale-models that will use as an inspiration for our work.

  

P.S. After several years of hesitating I’ve finally decided to purchase a thermal cutter for styrophoam. I hope that this tool will speed up the construction. 


Witamy w pierwszym wpisie z serii “Budowa zamku Drakenborg”. W tym roku planujemy wykonać makietę zamku w skali 28 m. Znając nasze tempo, projekt może mieć trudności z ukończeniem w zakładanej przestrzeni czasowej, jednak warto sobie zawsze wyznaczyć jakieś cele na starcie. ;) Postaramy się Wam pokazać i częściowo opisać kolejne etapy powstawania całej konstrukcji. Aktualnie jesteśmy na etapie prac koncepcyjnych i projektowania. Jeszcze nie zdecydowaliśmy czy ma to być zamknięta konstrukcja mogąca stać w dowolnym miejscu stołu bitewnego czy może ma mieć strukturę półotwartą, tak aby można było w nim przesuwać modele. W tym drugim wypadku zamek będzie zawsze musiał być dostawiony do krawędzi stołu. Najgorsze jest to, że nie osiągnęliśmy jeszcze żadnych znacznych sukcesów wizualnych, a poświeciliśmy już temu około 6 godzin pracy… Znalezienie inspiracji i wybór koncepcji okazały się bardzo długotrwałe. W tym wpisie chcemy pokazać Wam zdjęcia które wykorzystamy w charakterze inspiracji. 



P.S. Po kilka latach czajenia się wreszcie zdecydowałem się na zakup termicznej wycinarki do tworzyw sztucznych i mam nadzieje, że to narzędzie przyśpieszy obróbkę styroduru.

Bez zbędnych szczegółów przedstawiamy wam zamki i makiety, na których będziemy się wzorować, wykonując poszczególne elementy naszej makiety:


Będzin, Polska 
Castle in Będzin, Poland


Bran, Rumunia
Bran Castle, Romania






Zamek Reichsburg w Cochem, Niemcy
Reichsburg Castle in Cochem, Germany


Eltz, Niemcy
Eltz, Germany



 Falkenstein, Austria


Lichtenstein. Austria


Hunedoara, Rumunia
Hunedoara, Romania


Troki, Litwa
Trakai Penninsula Castle. Lithuania


Zamek w Erice na Sycylii
Venus Castle in Erice, Sycylia


Ojców, Polska
Castle in Ojców, Poland



Bobolice, Polska
Castle in Bobolice, Poland




Scale-models: 
Makiety:

Once again Castle in Bobolice, Poland made by Silva company, you can find more of heir works here.
Ponownie Zamek w Bobolicach stworzony przez pracownie makiet Silva,  więcej ich aranżacji można obejrzeć tutaj.


Uknown Author
Świetna makieta zamku, niestety autor jest nam nieznany.


Source of this work
Źródłem poniższej pracy jest ta strona.





Unkown authors
Autorzy nieznani.




Samson goes to the movies Part 2

Posted on January 7th, 2016 under , , . Posted by

Yes indeed fellow painters, another tutorial from Adam and the crew at Tabletop Minons. This time on the subject of power swords. This one went a little longer than we’d like but we’re leaning as we go and the next batch of videos will be even bet…

How to Paint 6mm Romans

Posted on January 7th, 2016 under , , . Posted by

Its a common misconception that painting 6mm wargaming figures must be incredibly difficult and consequently is only for the eagle eyed ‘expert’ (or the masochist). This couldn’t be further from the truth and if a ham-fisted clod like me can produce ac…

How to make flags for miniatures – step by step // Jak wykonać flagi do modeli – poradnik krok po kroku

Posted on January 6th, 2016 under , , , , . Posted by

Hi All!
Today I would like to show you how to prepare simple but effective flags for your miniatures in every scale. In this article you will also find a file with my custom-made flags and some interesting links to websites with a large amount of ready to be printed flags.
Remember that you should not expect to win a painting competition with that. If you have seen our blog before you probably noticed that I am not a freehand champion. Occasionally I make some smaller freehands, I even painted a banner but I was never happy with my level so I decided that I need to find a substitute. 


Cześć!
W dzisiejszym poście pokażę Wam, jak przygotować proste flagi do Waszych modeli. W dalszej części tego artykułu znajdziecie plik z moimi flagami oraz linki do stron, gdzie możesz znaleźć dużą ilość innych gotowych banerów. Konkursu modelarskiego pewnie tak nie wygracie, ale efekt końcowy będzie zadowalający. Jeżeli przyglądaliście się naszemu blogowi, to pewnie zauważyliście, że nie jestem ani mistrzem freehandu ani nawet studentem tej dziwnej i niezgłębionej dla mnie sztuki.  Okazjonalnie popełniam gdzieś jakiś bohomaz, namalowałem nawet jeden baner, ale nie byłem do końca zadowolony z efektu końcowego i stosunku czasu do jakości. Z tego względu musiałem poszukać innych technik modelarskich, które służyć będą za substytut.

Looking at the subject I came across this short video about the usage of a very thin Chinese calligraphy paper that allows to simply copy the flag and shape it as you wish. I like the possibility of material shaping and the end result but this method is not effective as it is time-consuming. Perhaps I’ll come back to it but only for more advanced projects. Another interesting technique is to simply print your flags on a fabric. You can read about that here.  

Aforementioned techniques are great but I lacked materials and time so I searched more in the net and asked people around. In the meantime I resigned from possibility of using ready paper flags provided by Perry Miniatures and other manufacturers, because they are printed on thick, glossy paper not suitable for shaping.
Finally I decided that I will print my own flags on ordinary paper because after thorough reasarch I found 5 main advatages of that method:

  1. easy access to printer 
  2. good value for money relation (free?) 
  3. time saving  
  4. no special materials needed
  5. decent final effect
 
Zagłębiając się w temat, trafiłem na ten film, z którym warto się według mnie z Wami podzielić. Wykorzystanie bardzo cienkiego chińskiego papieru do kaligrafii pozwala na proste skopiowanie wzoru. Możliwości formowania materiału i efekt końcowy bardzo mi się podoba, ale jest to czasochłonna metoda, więc pomysł upadł.  Możliwe, że wrócę jeszcze do tego, ale przy bardziej zaawansowanych projektach. Inną ciekawą techniką jest drukowanie na materiale, o czym możecie poczytać tutaj.
Szukałem dalej w internetach, popytałem ludzi i zdecydowałem się na samodzielnie przygotowanie flag papierowych.  Są także do wykorzystania gotowe papierowe flagi, dostarczone przez Perry Miniatures lub innych producentów, jednak nie skorzystałem  z nich, ponieważ flagi te są wydrukowane na papierze lakierowanym/kredowym i nie nadają się do formowania w czasie doklejania do modelu. Taka flaga nie załopocze na wietrze. :)

Druk flagi nie jest procesem skomplikowanym ale można podejść do niego na wiele różnych sposobów:
  1. Druk na papierze do kalkomanii, a następnie przeniesienie flag za pomocą rozmiękczacza na  flagę spreparowaną z wygiętego pod wpływem ciepła kawałka plasticardu.
  2. Druk na bardzo cienkim papierze i umożliwienie tym, bardzo precyzyjnego uformowania flagi podczas jej sklejania.
  3. Druk na papierze o wysokiej gramaturze w celu imitacji tkaniny.
  4. Druk na standardowym papierze do drukarek.
Trzy pierwsze sposoby po przetestowaniu odrzuciłem, ponieważ efekt końcowy jest praktycznie identyczny jak w druku na zwykłym papierze do drukarek. Oczywiście te sposoby mają swoje zalety jednak wyszedłem z założenia, że potrzebuję “darmowego” i szybkiego sposobu. Z tego względu zdecydowałem się na ostatnie rozwiązanie.

As always there exists a possibility that you will find a suitable banner just by searching through online resources. I especially recommend two sites:

Sad but true, flags usually do not have the appropriate size that suits your desires. First of all you need to prepare them for printing. There are many free graphic editors in the net that allow you to easily change the size or shape of the flag. Just google it.

Poszukując odpowiednich banerów, warto skorzystać z zasobów internetowych. Szczególnie polecam dwie strony:
Niestety flagi zwykle nie mają odpowiednich rozmiarów. Należy je najpierw przygotować do wydruku. Na rynku istnieje wiele darmowych edytorów, dzięki którym łatwo można zmienić ich rozmiar czy kształt, wystarczy trochę pogooglać. :)

While designing the flag, you should remember that it have to be made of the two mirror reflections connected by 3 mm of additional excess paper. The marked area (with black frame) on the picture below shows what I mean. Of course this area have to be colored according to the background of the flag. This will be used to attach the banner to the flagpole.

Projektując flagę należy pamiętać, żeby składała się z połączonych ze sobą lustrzanych odbić oraz żeby zostawić ok. 3 mm zapasu na złączeniu tych odbić. Obszar, który zakreśliłem na czarno na poniższym zdjęciu pokazuje ten dodatkowy zapas. Oczywiście musi być on w kolorze zgodnym z tłem flagi. W tym miejscu flaga “obejmie” drzewiec.

I am lucky enough to have sister who is a graphic designer and that is why I have no problems with getting flags of specified size and shape from every graphic file I can find in the net.

Here you can download the file with my custom flags. After printing each banner is 30 mm height. 

Mam to szczęście, że moja siostra jest grafikiem i nie mam problemów z szybkim otrzymaniem plików w określonym rozmiarze z dowolnego pliku, który znajdę w sieci. 

Tutaj możecie pobrać plik z moimi flagami. Został tak przygotowany, by po wydrukowaniu każda miała 30 mm wysokości oraz posiadała swoje lustrzane odbicie i dodatkowy zapas na drzewiec.

After this very long introduction I we can finally get to the point :
1. First point is obvious as Vader being a Sith – print your flags. I use a laser printer that does not have a problem with smearing the ink under the influence of adhesive which contains a water.

Po tym bardzo długim wstępie możemy przejść do rzeczy:

1. Wydrukuj flagi – ja użyłem drukarki laserowej, żeby nie mieć problemu z rozmazywaniem się tuszu pod wpływem wody zawartej w kleju.

2. Choose your flag. For the purposes of this tutorial I used modern flagof Lower Silesia and the emblem of the Czech Republic. They will be blowing in the breeze over the heads of my mercenaries from the Thirteen Years’ War.

2. Wybieramy interesujący nas baner. Na potrzeby tego przewodnika użyłem współczesnej flagi Dolnego Śląska oraz godła czeskiego, które załopoczą na sztandarach najemników z czasów wojny trzynastoletniej.

3. I thoroughly cut the flags.
3. Dokładnie wyciąłem sztandary.

4. I carefully painted the edges and the inside of the flags in the colours that corresponds to the flag main colour as shown in the pictures below. I used acrylic paints because they are resistant to water after drying.

4. Brzegi flag oraz wewnętrzną stronę dokładnie pomalowałem na kolory odpowiadające fladze tak, jak pokazano na zdjęciach poniżej. Użyłem farb akrylowych, ponieważ są odporne na wodę po wyschnięciu. 

4. I decided to slightly modify the shape of the flag to make it more interesting. I cut off a piece of the paper in the shape of a triangle as shown below.

4. Postanowiłem zmienić nieco kształt flagi, żeby stała się bardziej interesująca. W tym celu wyciąłem fragment papieru w kształcie trójkąta.

5. Using a brush I covered the entire inner side of the flagwith slightly diluted PVA glue. The paper had soaked with glue which allowed me to shape the flag in next step.

5. Za pomocą pędzla pokryłem całą wewnętrzną stronę flagi lekko rozcieńczonym klejem do drewna. Papier nasiąkł klejem, co umożliwiło jego formowanie w późniejszym etapie.

6.  The flag was mounted on a flagpole.

NOTE: You have only one chance to fit both sides of the flag together. After you connect both sides there will be no possibility to create any amendments.Any mistakes will have to be cut off and covered with paint once again.

Immediately after folding, you have to start shaping the flag. Personally, I like when the flag flutters in the wind slightly. A few of myarrangement can be found below.

 
6. Flagę montujemy na drzewcu. 

UWAGA: Macie tylko jedną szansę na odpowiednie spasowanie ze sobą papieru. Po przyłożeniu nie będzie już możliwości poprawki. Ewentualne niedociągnięcia w spasowaniu obu stron będzie trzeba odciąć. 

Od razu po spasowaniu należy zacząć formować flagę. Osobiście lubię, jak mocno łopocze na  wietrze. Klika moich aranżacji możecie znaleźć poniżej.


Czech and Silesian mercenaries marching with their banners. Soon we will post better pictures of that unit on our blog. The trays are unfinished. :/

Oddział czeskich i śląskich najemników z banerami. Wkrótce wrzucimy ich lepsze zdjęcia na naszego bloga. Póki co podstawki są niewykończone. :/


The first flag from the left is made ​​of plasticard molded with hot water. It was painted with 

an airbrush and simple brush. The rest of these are paper flags.
Happy New Year and see you soon!

Pierwsza od lewej to flaga wykonana z plasticardu i formowana gorąca wodą, pomalowana aerografem i pędzlem. Reszta to flagi papierowe. 

Najlepszego w Roku 2016 i do następnego razu!

Frostgrave Scenery Project – The Mausoleum Part 05

Posted on January 6th, 2016 under , , , , . Posted by

Sanded and painted the basic building.I went for a darker grey than I had first planned, but I think this adds to the somber tone that will suit Frostgrave…The actual tomb will be left un-fixed, so that the building will be able to be used for other …

Terrain is everything – Hail the Omnissiah new FREE Print & Play building template

Posted on January 5th, 2016 under , , , , , , , , , . Posted by

I know Christmas and New Year has been and gone but there are still presents to be had and the 40kaddict thinks you’ve all been very good this year so please accept this gift as 2016 begins…In truth the bulk of this design was created over 2 years …

Tutotial: converting Chimera APC

Posted on December 31st, 2015 under , , . Posted by

Hey again – for the very last time in 2015.This time I decided to move the tut made a while ago to the main section of the blog – it turned out original formating got somehow screwed so this way all pics shoud be visible and saved for the coming gamers…

Tutorial: Malifaux Basing

Posted on December 27th, 2015 under , , , . Posted by

Malifaux Basing Tutorial

As you may know I am slowly building up a Malifaux Resurrectionist crew based around undead Samurai. Looking around I could not find any basing tutorials to create my own, as I did not want to go down the expensive resin route. Well after a bit of experimentation I created my own bases, and have done a tutorial below on how I made them. The theme is a rotting dojo or building, with planks and moss etc, simple but effective :)

Materials

First you will need to gather all the kit and materials you need for the job. It is better to have them to hand otherwise you will find the glue dries etc before you can start another stage.

  • Strips of Balsa wood (about 3mm thick)
  • Sand mix (my own creation, using builders sand and a little grit. Normal sand will work just fine as well, this just adds a little more texture)
  • Superglue (this needs to be runny. I buy really cheap glue from the pound shop which is exceptionally runny, and works a dream for the basing. The more thicker stuff may work ok but you want it to be easy flowing if possible)
  • Scalpel
  • Grass tufts (I use army painter tufts, but static grass will work fine. I just prefer the longer strands of grass)

Step 1

Cut your balsa wood into thin strips. Make sure the cuts are wonky, as this will give the wood a worn look and add more variation to the bases later.


Step 2


Grab your scalpel and start carving into the sides of the balsa strip to add more texture and indents to it.

Keep the shavings in a small pile to the side once you are done as you will need them later.








Step 3

 

Tear the balsa strips into small chunks. Don’t cut these with the knife as you want the edges to be jagged and splintered.

 

 

Step 4

 

Position the chunks of wood onto the base until you are happy with the look of it.

Don’t be afraid to tear and break the strips apart into smaller ones if you need. This just adds more texture.

Use the shavings to fill any gaps.

Use superglue to bind them together and wait for it to dry.

 

 

Step 5

 

Squirt a load of superglue into the recesses of the planks

 

 

Dip it into your sand mix as quick as you can.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The superglue will naturally form nice clumps and set very quickly. You can’t really get this effect with other glues as the drying times are too long. This method is quick and very effective.

 

 

 

 

Step 6

 

Your base is now ready for priming and painting. Here I sprayed it black and then drybrushed up from a dark brown, mixing in ushabti bone for the final brown highlight.

The green is again drybrushed, but only in selected places, to simulate moss & rotting boards.

Finally I paint the rim black before adding the mini on top.

 

 

 

Once the mini and base are assembled together I gloss varnish, then do a dullcoat on top to matt it back down again. You don’t need to do this step, bit I like to protect my mini from the rigours of gaming, and the two varnishing steps give a slight satin finish that I am quite fond of, as I think it adds more of a depth to the colours.

When the varnishing is complete I finally add a few select tufts of the grass into recesses in the boards for the final effect.

 

 

 

The final result

 

I hope you have enjoyed this and found it useful. Let me know in the comments if so :)

NafNaf

 

Frostgrave Scenery Project – The Mausoleum Part 04

Posted on December 22nd, 2015 under , , , , , . Posted by

The I finish off the construction of the Mausoleum I have decided that I need a little more decoration on in. In particular, the pediment needs something to make it stand out.I hunted around on Google for a few photos of pediments. Found one or two tha…

Frostgrave Scenery Project – The Mausoleum Part 3

Posted on December 14th, 2015 under , , , , . Posted by

Time to fit the 3D printed columns to he front of the building. These add the character that this build really needed.As this is quite a small building there is not much room on the base. I have tried to leave enough room for a figure to fit in behind …

The dungeons have a delivery

Posted on December 14th, 2015 under , , , , . Posted by

With another week until the painting competition starts I’ve been trying not to start work on any new figures… so some more furniture has been finished for Dungeon Saga. The next three photos do include the last set of stonework furniture as well, so…

Tau piranha, my most ambitious conversion project so far

Posted on December 9th, 2015 under , , , , , . Posted by

The official GW piranha model

Hi all – bonus post for you today, as last night I decided to have a go at recreating converted piranhas I’ve seen on the internet.

I love the rules for the piranha, little speedy anti-tank units are great fun to play on the tabletop, particularly when they can drop out annoying little drones too. I don’t like the layout of the official GW model though, so decided to have a go at recreating something I’ve seen done elsewhere that makes them look a bit more like a mini-flyer than anything else, and really emphasises their speed through the appearance of the model.

Read more »

Frostgrave Scenery Project – The Mausoleum Part 02

Posted on December 8th, 2015 under , , , , . Posted by

With the main structure of the building in place I have moved on to so detailing now.I spent an evening gluing bricks on to the base and defining edges. I think these add a nice bit of character to the building. On a practical level they also hide the …

Frostgrave Scenery Project – The Mausoleum Part 01

Posted on December 2nd, 2015 under , , , , . Posted by

Now that the Wizard’s Tower is finally finished I am moving on to some of the other scenario specific terrain pieces. My aim is to keep most of these pieces generic enough that they can be used for other games, as well as non-scenario Frostgrave games …

Grim’s Dungeons of Doom: Tavern Tales: Raising the bar! Making a Tavern bar!

Posted on November 29th, 2015 under , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Posted by

Well, here I am again, with a later than  scheduled terrain making post, I know it’s been a while, but haven’t had much chance to do much with a PC for what seems like ages. So, while not fitting the whole dungeon theme entirely, we kick off this belated Grim’s Dungeons of Doom article with […]

Painting Guide for Armada Rogues and Villains

Posted on November 28th, 2015 under , , , , . Posted by

I knocked these guys out in about 3 hours, and figured I’d share my techniques here! All colors referenced are Vallejo paints. I used el cheapo flat black spray for the stands, but masked off “connecting” points so it all still fit together nicely. The wash I use is CGR Painters’ excellent Magic Mudd. All cockpits were done with a Pitt artist pen with a small nib.

The whole crew!

 Rogues.

Villains.

For all models I did a simple process: Spray coat black, Apply a thinned down base coat (sometimes twice for the lighter color ones). Once dry, I painted all the details with a Windows & Newton Series 7 size 0 brush. Once all of the details were done, I liberally washed the ship with the Magic Mudd, then soak up any areas that are pooling with a Q-tip. When dry, I used my artist pen to carefully draw in the cockpit.

Read more »

Hobby Tutorial: Painting the UNSC

Posted on November 28th, 2015 under , , . Posted by

I recently started in on painting my UNSC ships for Spartan’s Halo: Fleet Battles game. I’m reasonably pleased with the results I achieved, so I though a quick tutorial would be in order! After a medium grey primer coat, I … Continue reading