Posts Tagged ‘Tutorial’

Team Yankee West German Tips and Tricks #2: Fuchs (TGBX06)

Posted on September 23rd, 2016 under , , , . Posted by

What does the Fuchs say….

Sorry ’bout that  :-)

Round 2 with the West Germans in Team Yankee from Battlefront.  This time we look at the Fuchs (TGBX06) and this Fuchs say va-va-va-voom!

A hefty little 6 wheeled all terrain troop transport to move those Panzergrenadiers around the battlefield.  Yes please!  You can find these bad boys in the Panzer Aufklarungs Kompanie list and can you can get 2 zugs of them with 3 Fuchs in each.

On to the models!

This is another very sweet kit. The kits I have for prepared are pre-release versions. This is an old-school resin hull with metal bits. These are chock full of detail and are VERY clean. The metal wheels had just a few metal whiskers and no flash or mold lines.

The fit of the wheels here is a very simple peg on the hull and hole in the wheel, but is very well designed. They are a different style than the Luchs wheels, but fit just as snug.

Build:  Since this was a pre-release kit, I didn’t have the instructions that are up on Battlefront now. But that didn’t matter! The kit is super easy; very intuitive…put all the wheels on one side of the hull.  Let those dry a little so that they don’t wiggle any more, then do the other side.
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Dark Angels – Land Speeder Typhoons – moar shots

Posted on September 8th, 2016 under , , , , , , , . Posted by

These are the ‘cinematic shots’ i.e. the ones with a shedload of filters on to try and make them more interesting. Unlike my pic of the Dark Talon I’m not sure if there’s any improvements but I always need some pics on my phone for various social media…

Creating a Snow Base

Posted on September 6th, 2016 under , , , , , , . Posted by

 I had a friend staying for a few days last week so we each painted a Rackham figure from my collection. I chose the Mystic of the Behemoth, a fantastically detailed wiry old orc shaman. I took a few WIP shots of the miniature but I don’t plan on doing a step by step for him. If you have any questions though I’ll be happy to answer them in the comments!

While I’m not doing a step by step for the miniature I would like to walk through the base, I’ve not tried a snow base before so it was new ground.
Once I had a basic plan for ‘snowy rock’ I grabbed some bark (scavenged from nearby woodland) and some bits of slate (I got mine from Element Games but you could find these around as well). Super glued them onto the included game base to make an outcropping.
It’s a good start but there is more to do, I used some Vallejo Oxide paste to help hide the ‘corkiness’ of the cork and fill some of the gaps, it will also be a nice base for the dirt and snow.
PVA glue and some dirt out of the garden were then added on top to mix up the texture of the paste.
Primed with my usual zenithal technique. I then went back in with some watered down black paint and made sure every nook and cranny was filled.
I hit all the areas that I wanted to be dirt with some tank brown.
Then dry brushed with tank brown mixed with off white.
I added some pigments to the dirt as well, browns and a bit of brown and black mixed in the darker areas. For the rock areas I again drybrushed with GW Fenrisian Grey and then an almost white Fenrisian Grey/White mix. While drybrushing is great for rocks it can leave a bit of an odd appearance in place so I went back in with some watered down fenrisian grey/white mix and helped blend some of the highlights so they were less stark.
Here is the figure pinned to the base. I could have stopped here, maybe added some foliage but I wanted to experiment with snow and see what I could achieve.
I mixed up a paste in a plastic pot I had spare, the mix was PVA glue, Bicarbonate of Soda and a little white paint. Depending on what ratios you add the glue in depends on what kind of snow effect you get at the end. I wanted quite a settled thick layer so I went pretty heavy with the bicarbonate of soda. I applied the snow to the miniature with an old brush and a tooth pick in some places where I needed more precision. Around the miniatures feet it didn’t bother me if I got some on the robes and boots, he’s been travelling through the snow after all! After this was done I then sprinkled some more bicarbonate of soda on top afterwards to get a powdery look.
Leave it to dry and then lightly brush off the excess bicarbonate of soda. Again at this point you could stop but I wanted to push it further! Roman Lappat from Massive Voodoo did a fantastic article on snow back in January ( I’ve been strongly influenced by both the article and some of the recent works he’s done . He talks a lot about temperature of snow shadows and how they’re not just white. I used some turquoise mixed with white, heavily diluted to add some colour to the shadows of the base. This was….difficult. I know Roman uses an airbrush but I only have brushes and it was hard to do this over the texture of the bicarbonate base. I ended up with quite a subtle effect but I think it adds a lot to the final appearance. Another way to do this in the future might be to paint the effect on the base underneath and then use a thinner layer of the snow paste so the colours still show through.
Another tip I got from Roman is making icicles! He uses clear plastic tubes melted with a lighter. I didn’t have any tubes so I cut up an old tic tac box I had on my desk into plastic shards. I melted them slightly to create the icicle drop effect and then carefully superglued them to the base in areas where I felt melting snow might cause them to form. I used gloss varnish on the icicles and some areas of the rock near the snow (to give that slight icy appearance that you see on frozen rocks sometimes) I also put more detail into the snow on his robes, boots and staff. Using PVA and sprinkling Bicarbonate over it. I envision that he used his staff as a walking stick and perhaps probing areas of the snow to test the ground!
I also used some crushed glass, you can buy this from a number of manufacturers but I didn’t have any so I made some myself out of some spare glass and a pestle and mortar. If you do try this be careful, wear safety glasses, thick gloves and a face mask. You don’t want to inhale crushed glass trust me!
I mixed the crushed glass with some satin varnish and a little bicarbonate of soda to make a paste. I then carefully brushed this onto areas where I wanted the light to hit the snow the most (mostly the right areas of the model and a little bit on his cloaks. This was quite fiddly and the effect isn’t as good as I hoped it would be, it still adds that little sparkle when you move the model that you get from snow though. Final step was to paint the original gaming base black.
Looking back through this I realise that a lot of the effort painting the rocks was…well wasted because they’re now covered in snow! Sometimes though you just run with something and even if these end up hidden it helps you reach the final look you want.
So that’s how I created my snow base! Share any questions or experiences you have with basing snow below in the comments. Check out the other article ( for some better showcase shots of the final piece.

Dark Angels – Land Speeder Typhoons – To Done!

Posted on September 6th, 2016 under , , , , , , , . Posted by

I’d been holding out for the weekend to get my To Done! pics done. I make the fundamental mistake of using natural light and with autumn approaching that’s going to be in short supply. I’ve a plan to fix that though so ‘bear with’.I wasn’t overly impr…

Dark Angels – Land Speeder Typhoons gravitic plate

Posted on August 30th, 2016 under , , , , , , , . Posted by

The irony of posting these WiP shots of the gravitic plates underneath the Land Speeders is that the subsequent efforts over the weekend meant I applied the anti-shine varnish on the 28th August, the day of the new Hobby Season! That just goes to show I was dilly-dallying for good reason, any of those days I avoided working on the Speeders could have resulted in a 2015/16 stamp instead of a 2016/17. The fact is it makes no difference either way, borne out by my inability to feel dismayed they weren’t completed last season or happier they’ll ring out the new season in style. The reality is I’m playing the ‘To Done’ images out in my head and that mental celebration is a win regardless of 24 hours hear or there.

The glow effects were not as straight forward as I’d imagined. Orange was always the first choice, red was considered but with the red lights I thought it’d confuse matters. I must remember to always do the Macharius Solar orange glow though. When thinned it really does add the ‘halo’ effect, whereas the darker craft acrylic when thinned just sticks to the crevices. You cannot make the glow with it alone, it just defines the shape.

With the varnish dry I was not happy with the anti-shine finish, too many brush strokes were visible. This is a recurring issue on the black, particularly flat surfaces where there is no place to hide. So I cranked out the airbrush and tried to be a little more careful than I was with the Nephilim. In fact I think I had to spray on even more varnish but luckily it didn’t go ‘dusty’ [on initial inspection at least]. The second coat did at least manage to even out the varnish and cover the brush marks. All that remains to do is Tamiya Clear Red X-27 the lights, Tamiya Clear Orange X-26 the targeting lenses and then take the To Done pictures and I can get my first Big Purple Stamp of Approval.

Then what…? I guess I’ll have to check the list, I mean it’s what it’s there for afterall!

Tutorial: M8 Greyhound (Bolt Action)

Posted on August 29th, 2016 under , , , , . Posted by

Hello again,After painting my very first Bolt Action model recently (Sherman M4) I got kinda encouraged by positive feedback and was also asked some questions about colors and materials used. So while waiting for US infantry arrival I ordered another …

Paint Recipes Index

Posted on August 27th, 2016 under , , , . Posted by

Welcome to the Index page for our new paint recipes section!Recently a group was founded on Facebook, dedicated purely to the sharing of painting recipes, from elaborate multi-glaze NMM to tricks and shortcuts for getting things on the tabletop in reco…

Team Yankee: West German Tips & Tricks #1: Spahpanzer Luchs (TGBX05)

Posted on August 24th, 2016 under , , . Posted by

Guten tag comaraden!

Translation:  Hey y’all!

It’s me! SonBae! Live from WWPD-South, bringing to you another in my installment of tips and tricks from models from Battlefront’s Team Yankee game.  This time we are going to look at models from the newest faction to enter the Team Yankee fray, the West Germans.

First up is the Luchs (TGBX05).  No, not the PzII variant from World War II, although it does bear a closer resemblance to an 8-Rad or Puma.  This Luchs is a sleek little all-terrain Armored Car.  In Leopard, you can find these bad boys in all of the West German lists.  You can get up to 2 Trupps of 2 Luchs each in the Leopard II Panzer Kompanie, Marder Panzergrenadier Kompanie and up to 4 Trupps of 2 Luchs eat in the Panzer Aufklarungs Kompanie.  You get some pretty cool rules with it  like Spearhead, Scout and thermal that help beef up that 20mm gun.

On to the models!
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Team Yankee: ZSU23-4 Shilka Tips and Tricks #6

Posted on August 18th, 2016 under , , , . Posted by

Finally! We have come to the end of this series. I hope this has been enjoyable and informative for you.  We get to wrap this up with a discussion of one of my favorite AAA systems.  A radar controlled quad 23mm machine gun!?!?!?!? Battlefront serves up another Soviet system for their Team Yankee version of Flames of War. Now its time to talk about the ZSU 23-4 Shilka AA Platoon boxed set (TSBX05) where I give a little review and share my thoughts and tricks and tips on this model.

Bottomline up front…Yet ANOTHER great resin kit. This is a solid resin and metal kit where the turret and hull are resin and the main gun barrel and tracks are white metal.

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Headswaps 101

Posted on August 10th, 2016 under , , , , . Posted by

I realised the other day that it has been an absolute age since I last did any kind of tutorial, fortunately an opportunity has rather presented itself…

My client has two of these rather handsome totally-not-Hugo Weaving figures and we were debat…

Bamboo Bases

Posted on July 31st, 2016 under , , , , , . Posted by

As I’ve had a number of Bushido figures covering my desk over the last few weeks I thought I’d add a few minutes to each build to add some nice bases to the figures (the usual grass and rocks just didn’t … Continue reading

How Not To Play Crossfire Video

Posted on July 29th, 2016 under , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Posted by

Following on from the “Operation Crossfire: Smoke & Close Combat” video is yet another useful introductory video by Nikolas Lloyd, covering How Not To Play Crossfire! This gives a quick introduction to what not to do tactically when playing Crossfire – the rules

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Crossfire Smoke & Close Combat Video

Posted on July 27th, 2016 under , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Posted by

Following on from the “Crossfire: Movement & Reaction” video is another good introductory video by Nikolas Lloyd, covering Smoke and Close Combat in Crossfire. This gives a great quick introduction to basic infantry movement and reactive fire in Crossfire. See also the

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Team Yankee: SU-25 FrogFoot Tips and Tricks #5

Posted on July 26th, 2016 under , , , , , . Posted by

Howdy Hi!  Next up in the tips and tricks is the SU-25 Frogfoot Aviation Company (TSBX09) for Battlefront’s Team Yankee version of Flames of War.

Bottomline up front…this will come as a shock to some who think me a “BF Fan Boy,” but this boxed set was a little disappointing.

You get a solid resin body and white plastic-styrene nose piece and armaments.  The resin seems a little rough around the edges and requires cleaning at the all the edges. The white plastic was stunningly disappointing. I have built 6 of these by now and all are the same.

The nose cone detail seems all miscast and doesn’t fit well.
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The Weight of Plastics; Adding Heft to Plastic Models.

Posted on July 21st, 2016 under , , , , . Posted by

My first experience with plastics in my Flames of War hobby was a few years ago when I cracked open a copy of the Open Fire! starter box. The Shermans left me disappointed which prompted me to straw away from plastics…that was until I recently bought Grimball’s Beasts. WOW! Battlefront has really stepped up their game. Every piece was easy to assemble and to be quite frank I really enjoyed it.

That being said there was still ONE issue. The weight. The minis just felt fragile and cheap. I love the “heft” that some minis have. This may be personal preference but can be a very effective defense against those stray dice that come rolling across the gaming table.

Today I am going to show you how I weigh down my plastic tanks. Along with a comparison of weights between different Sherman models.

To start off I have an M4A1 I acquired way back when V1 was alive and well.

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Samson Goes to the Movies, Part 9!

Posted on July 20th, 2016 under , , , . Posted by

This time around Adam and I took a look at some quick and effective scenery painting. Enjoy and as always, check out the Tabletop Minions page, which has broken the 2500 followers mark! Congratulations to Adam, he’s certainly put his time in.

Bushido Tokens

Posted on July 17th, 2016 under , , , . Posted by

Most games these days rely on tokens to keep track of figure states and Bushido is not exception. Now you can of course just download, print and cut out the tokens from the Bushido website (couldn’t find them when I … Continue reading

Crossfire Movement & Reaction Video

Posted on July 14th, 2016 under , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Posted by

Following on from the “Operation Crossfire: Introducing Crossfire – World War Two Wargaming” video is another good introductory video by Nikolas Lloyd, covering Movement and Reaction in Crossfire. This gives a great quick introduction to basic infantry movement and reactive fire in

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Summer tip: How to repaint … a bike:) // Pomysł na lato: Przemaluj swój rower!

Posted on July 13th, 2016 under , , . Posted by


Today, something a little bit different than usual. A little painting at the macro scale :) Some time ago due to the start of the bike season I had a chance to refresh a bike, which fell into my hands. It turned out that practical skills of miniature painting are also useful in everyday life. The theory is the same as in the smaller scales, still you need a lot of patience and several cans of paint!
Dzisiaj coś zupełnie innego. Trochę modelarstwa w skali makro:) Jakiś czas temu z uwagi na początek sezonu rowerowego miałem okazję odświeżyć pewien jednoślad, który na pewien czas wpadł w moje ręce. Jak to w życiu bywa w tego typu sytuacjach przydają się zdobywane cięzką pracą praktyczne umiejętności malowania. Teoria jest taka sama jak w przypadku malowania w skali 28 mm, wciąż potrzeba sporo cierpliwości i odpowiednich farb! 


The bike even though it was not overly old, was worn out and what more its last owner kept it on the balcony in the winter season. As I am not a specialist I had to properly document everything on the camera before I dismantle it into pieces.

Rower mimo, że nie był przesadnie stary to jednak był mocno wyeksploatowany a dodatkowo ostatni właściciel przechowywał go na balkonie w sezonie zimowym. Jako że nie jestem specjalistą od rowerów musiałem udokumentować sprzęt przed jego rozłożeniem.

While taking pictures I was successively removing accessories from the frame.

Robiąc zdjęcia usuwałem kolejne części osprzętu

I cleaned all metal elements and derailleurs from rust and secured them with several different substances used for car engines’ restoration.

Metalowe elementy oraz przerzutki wyczyściłem z rdzy i zabezpieczyłem za pomocą kilku różnych preparatów używanych do silników samochodowych.

In the meantime, I washed the frame and using sandpaper I started to tarnish the old blue varnish. Unfortunately, there was no way to dip the bike in DOT3:)
W międzyczasie umyłem ramę i przystąpiłem do matowienia starego lakieru. Niestety kąpiel w DOT3  nie wchodziła w grę. Nie to żebym nie miał odpowiedniej ilości tego środka ale ciężko znaleźć odpowiednio duży pojemnik na  ramę żeby ją namoczyć;)

Before painting I re-cleaned the bike and secured those parts that I did not want to repaint. I constructed a small scaffolding and I was ready to paint.
Po zmatowieniu lakieru ponownie oczyściłem rower i zabezpieczyłem te elementy których nie chciałem przemalować. Prowizoryczna szubienica i można przystąpić do malowania.

Two thin coats of primer and 3 of thin layers of semi-matt black varnish later…

Dwie cienkie warstwy podkładu i 3 cienkie warstwy czarnego półmatowego lakieru później…

Another ‘meantime ‘ was used to paint small parts in white and sky blue to break the dark colour of the frame.
Kolejny ‘międzyczas’ wykorzystałem na pomalowanie drobnych akcesoriów żeby trochę przełamać czerń. 

Of course the worst part was to put everything together. I had to replace several components like chain and cables for derailleurs. Do not forget that you will have to calibrate derailleurs after the assembling, which in my case brought a lot of frustration but I managed to do that :)
Najgorsze okazało się oczywiście złożenie wszystkiego do kupy. Musiałem wymienić kilka elementów np. łańcuch i linki do przerzutek ale udało się. Nie zapomnijcie że wiąże się to również z kalibracją przerzutek, która mi przyniosła sporo frustracji ale udało się:)

The last part was to mount the logo of the manufacturer which I had detached before painting.

Na koniec pozostało przyklejenie znaczka producenta który wcześniej przed malowaniem przezornie usunąłem:)

I encourage everyone to experiment with larger scalesJ. The end result looks like this J It turns out that model making has a practical application. Until next time. Regards
Zachęcam wszystkich do eksperymentowania ze skalą makro. Okazuje się że modelarstwo tez ma praktyczne zastosowanie. Do następnego razu. Pozdrawiam
Efekt końcowy wygląda następująco:

Dark Angels – Jetfighter – Moar TO DONE!

Posted on July 8th, 2016 under , , , , , , , . Posted by

Usually I add the ‘obligatory phone pics’ on the end of my TO DONE! post. I take them as I usually need pics on my phone that I don;t need to view via the cloud. However, I’d ogt a tonne of pics from camera and these just turned out so cool I thought t…

Dark Angels – Jetfighter – TO DONE!

Posted on July 7th, 2016 under , , , , , , , . Posted by

With a bit of a push I finally got this bad boy done. There are definitely things that have not gone according to plan, more on them later but overall I’m really pleased.

Much like the Ravenwing bikers before it the end result, although maybe not what I imagined has become something beyond my expectations and I can’t wait to see it alongside the bikes and the Land Speeders too.

I haven’t added the Rift Cannon glow, I appreciate the opinions, it looked like green was the winner. I may well add it in at a later date but for now it’s just not firing.

The jets worked out OK though.

But here’s where we can begin to address the elephant in the room. Having been disappointed with the brush strokes in the Anti-shine it was time to try a new approach. I got out my air brush, don#t you just hate it when you put something in the ‘hard to access place’ because you don’t plan on using it for a while!

As you can see the effect is a little mixed. The end result although not frosted is a little ‘dusty’. Now I asked on the ‘eavier metal’ facebook group if it could go in undiluted but unusually got no response. So I went in neat…

Now I started underneath as I thought I’d have less to lose. I was very careful with the varnish and I think I managed to cover up almost all the brush strokes.

As you can see close up it’s really flat, just what I was aiming for.

So I was buoyed with confidence.

Then I think I got carried away, opened up the nozzle a bit too much and ended up with this rather grainy ‘sandstone’ finish. I mean it;s not ruined, it’s just not right either. In different light it’s certainly less noticeable but it’s a learning experience so I’ll suck it up and be more careful in the future.

I was finally able to glue the pilot and canopy in place too.

The base in all it’s glory.

And the other side too.

Close up of the stasis cell.

The tail.

The stasis cell crystal roof, glowing baleful red from the prison interior. 

And in it’s Jetfighter configuration.

Blackthorn missiles.

Such a better silhouette on the Jetfighter.

Three stripes on the left side. 

Litanies on the right, all done in Dark Reaper, they have the sense not to litter their craft with text that will show up too easily.

Twin linked las-cannon configuration.

The obligatory phone pic will be in a separate post tomorrow, for reasons!

So that’s another one off the list, and a really great achievement. I actually have a new found acceptance of the real world price of this flyer. I think it may well be worth the £45, because next to my Cerastus it’s pretty big so makes a pretty cool centrepiece [although a Doom Scythe is equally impressive and is only £27.50…].

That said though I was deeply disappointed to see the boxset mine came in – the Dark Angles, Dark Vengeance Expansion is no longer available. Rumours suggested all factions would be getting ‘start collecting’ boxes so clearly this is a move towards the Dark Angel variety. Sadly I think it’s a mistake as most starter boxes are £50-£60 and this was an £85 box, or you could get Dark Vengeance for £65, split the figures and you had a decent starting force for £30ish. Either way you’re bringing in more money for the expansion or selling out of stock for the main game as rumours suggest 8th is due next September. Reboxing them now is just additional cost. Oh and the Ravenwing battleforce has gone too…

Still TO DONE!

Dark Angels – Jetfighter – Tail lights

Posted on July 5th, 2016 under , , , , , , , . Posted by

I decided to do some freehand identification markings, this is 2nd company 5th wing, Alpha Squadron, craft PSI [cos who doesn’t like a Pitchshifter reference] or somesuch vague meaning. The cool thing is that new flyer book suggests all markings on rav…

Dark Angels – Jetfighter – None more black?

Posted on July 3rd, 2016 under , , , , , , , . Posted by

I’ve been struggling to accept the black on the Jetfighter. It’s still not the flat matt black I hoped it to be and all the efforts with watered Army Painter black and Abaddon and resulted in a finish I wasn’t 100% happy with, not even 80%. I even trie…

Operation Crossfire Videos

Posted on July 1st, 2016 under , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Posted by

Operation Crossfire is a fantastic set of introductory and training videos for Crossfire – put together by long-time Crossfire gamer and aficionado Nikolas Lloyd. They are highly recommended to all, even experienced Crossfire gamers – and if you have not

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Dark Angels – Jetfighter – Red or Dead!

Posted on July 1st, 2016 under , , , , , , , . Posted by

So with red red wing done I went on to do the second wing but was undecided as to where this is going to go. Firstly I thought the red was too much, hence why I didn’t paint the leading wing edge, but will that be black, or bronze? It certainly won’t b…