Posts Tagged ‘Tutorial’

FKB 26 – Mój sposób na… / My tutorial

Posted on October 26th, 2016 under , , , , , , , . Posted by

Foto-instrukcja montażu Guai-Lo /Guai-Lo Assembly Photo Manual. 9. Guai-Lo gotowy do malowania / Guai-Lo ready for painting phase Zapisz Zapisz Zapisz Zapisz Zapisz Zapisz Zapisz Zapisz Zapisz Zapisz Zapisz Zapisz Zapisz Zapisz Zapisz Zapisz Zapisz Zapisz Zapisz

30K: Iteration two

Posted on October 24th, 2016 under , , , , . Posted by

Continuing with my (re)discovery of the Horus Heresy I spent the weekend adding a bit more flesh to the bones of my 30K collection plans. A few legions have now started to bubble to the top as I’ve been considering and discarding those that don’t appeal to me as much from either …

‘nids part 203 – Acid spray and weapon options

Posted on October 24th, 2016 under , , , . Posted by

Progress is relaxed at the moment, just some washes on the Acid Spray. The unfortunate byproduct of taking it slowly is there’s not much to share with you guys, sorry.Ironically I’ll do what I feel is sufficient for the evening and sitll stay up till p…

How to make candles – step by step // Świece – krok po kroku

Posted on October 22nd, 2016 under , , , , , . Posted by

In today’s post I present a short step by step  tutorial that explains how I made candles for my cemetery terrain. The process is very simple and essentially costs nothing. The only necessary materials are redundant cable and PVA glue.
W dzisiejszym wpisie krótki poradnik krok po kroku w którym opiszę jak wykonałem świece do makiety cmentarza. Sposób jest bardzo prosty i w zasadzie nic nie kosztuje. Jedynymi potrzebnymi materiałami są zbędny kabel i klej do drewna.  
The first step was to remove an insulation of the cable. I used the RTV cable and thanks to that I was able to obtain insulations of two different diameters. Material was sliced ​​into short tubes to create candles’ body. Then using a wood glue and toothpicks I modeled each of the candles as you can see in the attached picture below.


Pierwszym etapem było zdjęcie izolacji z kabla, z której  wykonałem korpus świec. Ja użyłem kabla RTV z którego udało mi się uzyska izolacje o dwóch różnych średnicach. Materiał pokroiłem w niewysokie walce i przytwierdziłem do tymczasowego podłoża. Następnie używając kleju do drewna i wykałaczki wymodelowałem każdą ze świec tak jak na załączonym obrazku poniżej. Świece można oczywiście od razu przytwierdzić w docelowym miejscu.

When the glue was dried I moved the candles on a model.

Po wyschnięciu kleju przeniosłem świece na makietę.

As the glue lost his volume I had to repeat the process of adding more of it to the candles. I did it twice and after achiving the desired effect I started the painting.

Klej do drewna stracił swoją objętość więc jeszcze dwukrotnie  nanosiłem go na świece aż do uzyskania zadowalającego mnie efektu.

First color was ‘old bone’ from GW.

 Po wyschnieciu kleju pomalowałem wszystko kolorem Ushabti Bone z palety GW.

The higlights were done with lighter bone color from Vallejo pallet.


Następna warstwa farby to jaśniejszy ‘kościany’ z palety Vallejo i w zasadzie malowanie juz zakończone.

Wicks were done using a copper inner conductor, which remained after removing the insulation from the cable.


Knoty wykonałem za pomocą miedzianego  przewodu wewnętrznego, który pozostał po zdjęciu izolacji.

A bit of black paint and it was done. I hope you like the final effect. It is easy and simple addtion to the bases yet in my opinion still effective.


Trochę czarnej farby i gotowe. Mam nadzieję, że podoba wam się efekt końcowy.

‘nids part 202 – Acid spray and weapon options

Posted on October 21st, 2016 under , , , . Posted by

As I’m planning to run a Tyrannofex with Acid Spray at Caledonian I thought it worthwhile finishing up this little conversion. With the Tervigon’s birthing sac glued in place the normal feed cannot reach around it’s gravid womb so I needed to extend t…

Photos of the Cementry – 50% done // Zdjęcia z budowy i malowanie cmenatrzyska

Posted on October 19th, 2016 under , , , , , , , , , , , , . Posted by

After two long evenings I have completed circa 50% of the scenery. I had a few extra bits so I decided to create several additions to the original GW design.  Right now I have to finish the painting and add some details to the bases. I am aiming to finish all the pieces next week. Have a look at my progress so far.

Dwa wieczory i cmentarzysko jest skończone już w 50 procentach. Miałem trochę dodatkowych bitsów więc postanowiłem dodać trochę elementów w podobnym klimacie do tych wyprodukowanych przez GW. Pozostało tylko malowanie i wykończenie podstawek. Na poniższych zdjęciach możecie spojrzeć na postęp moich prac nad tą wyjątkowo udaną scenerią od naszego ulubionego dostawcy zabawek. Całą zabawę mam nadzieję ukończyć w przyszłym tygodniu.

Some extra candles will be placed on the graves.
Jako jeden z detali przewidziałem świeczki wykonane z izolacji i wikolu.

Tutorial: Dealing with tiny feet in basing

Posted on October 18th, 2016 under , . Posted by

So there I was, putting together some minis for a client when I came across a common problem: Tiny, tiny feet on a model that needs to be glued directly to the base. Now, I know how to solve this problem and it’s fairly straightforward, hence, a small …

Samson Goes to the Movies, Part 8!

Posted on October 13th, 2016 under , , , . Posted by

It’s been a while since Adam and I have had time to make another tutorial, but now that the dust is clearing, we’re back! This time providing some insight into OSL. Check it out real official like at the Tabletop Minions YouTube. Enjoy!

Team Yankee West German Tips & Tricks #3 – Rolands (TGBX08)

Posted on October 7th, 2016 under , , , . Posted by

Roland, Roland, Roland…keeps those Rolands firing…ROLAND!

For those that recognize that terrible riff on the classic Rawhide theme song….you’re old.  Like me  😉

This time we look at the Roland AA (GBX08) kit from Battlefront supporting the West German forces in Team Yankee.  These bad boys are a Brigade level support for all the lists and you can get up to 1 Batterie of up to 6 launchers of these guys. Look out Soviet Airpower!

Battlefront continues to rock on these kits. The kits I have for prepared are pre-release versions. This is another old-school resin hull and turret with metal bits. Lots of detail everywhere. I know these are from newer molds/castings, but that only accounts from the cleanness of the models.  There appears to be more little “grubbins” molded into the resin and metal than I have seen in older resin kits…this is a common theme so far in the West German kits. It makes be very happy for the future releases.


– Very simple build.  Glue the tracks to the hull and the missile launchers and radar to the turret.  When you glue the missile launchers make sure the missile pods hang under the launcher.

– You have an option with the side skirts. You can leave them off as in the cover art (and like I did) or you can put them on.  You have the POWER!!!!!!
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Let’s paint: Shambling Mound

Posted on October 6th, 2016 under , , , , , . Posted by

The Shambling Mound from Otherworld Miniatures reminds me an awful lot of something I saw on Dr Who as a child. Ah yes, the “Seeds of Doom” even though it’s origins are in D&D. Scared the beejesus out of me as a child, so when I saw Otherworld’s rather nice …

Finished! Mista Snaakes

Posted on October 2nd, 2016 under , , , , , , , , . Posted by

I had a blast on this project. He may not be perfect but that’s not why I painted him. Orks/Orcs/Orruks will always have a special place in my heart.Gallery ViewThis model was also the subject of an upcoming tutorial video shot with Adam, more to come …

Home made light box

Posted on October 2nd, 2016 under . Posted by

One of the things I’ve been contemplating for a while is improving my To Done pictures. For the most part I’ve been quite happy with my recent pictures, with the Camera 360 shots adding some effects that have made the pictures my best yet. The main issue revolves around my background picture. The Ferron Proxima backdrop has always been a favourite of mine as it puts the model in context – Red Planet BASE! needs a red planet to make sense, it also really stands out in blog feeds 😉 What it doesn’t do is help with colour accuracy and it also fails to meet the GW ‘suggested criteria’ of a plain white background for submitting photographs. For those in the hobby being featured in White Dwarf is a huge achievement and I’d hope to do that eventually, so decided a light box might help that happen. On top of that I’ll be less reliant on daylight [again, discouraged by GW] to get my pictures and they’ll be more consistent. I’ll still throw in the Ferron Proxima background but I’ll be doing these as well

These were my first test pictures on my home made light box, I’ll go into the full details and show you a picture later but what I wanted was to spend as little money as possible [cos that will help ‘sell’ your pics to GW] – to prove you don’t have to spend over the odds for decent results.

The light box was made from a transparent storage box, it still needs a proper clean [there’s a dead spider in one corner] I then bought two of these clip lights. They have them in the UK at Home & Bargain for £1.99 each. They’re rated to 60W bulb and I happened to have two knocking around. I am probably going to swap them out for energy saving bulbs though as incandescent bulbs get very hot. That’ll be another £3 but other than that I think that’s all you need.
Now I positioned the clips on the side of the box with the bulbs running along the outside with the light shining through the transparent box.

As you can see the results are OK, the plain white A3 sheet used as a background is a bit grey so I decided to move the clips.

 Instead of on the outside shining through the plastic I moved the clip lights round to the front of the box, you can see how much difference that made to background. The only problem with this is the lights kind of get in the way and getting quite hot means you have to be careful as you take the pictures, so you don’t get scorched on them by accident.

But for a first attempt and for £4 I think that’s pretty good. If I can get some higher lumen energy saving bulbs I might even get cleaner shots.

Here I decided to turn off the clip lights and actually it was pretty good without.

One light on the right hand side did this

And then both managed to fill in some of the shadows and the background is almost pure white. I’m really impressed with the results. Just look at the close up on this, the detail is crisp and sharp and makes the colours really rich. I’m not entirely sure if they want a pure white background for cutting out easily but if that’s the deal I can do a clipping path anyway in a snap. I’m pretty sure I discovered even .jpegs can retain embedded clipping paths [which I find rather peculiar, but handy].

I need to make a proper white backdrop, get some large white paper, vinyl, or even cloth so it can be draped smoothly. I may consider adding in some more reflective material on the lights but for a five minute ‘kitbash’ and £4 worth of light fittings what more can you ask for?

Here’s a view of the set up when I was taking pics of the Imperial Knight, it struggled to be effective on such a large model, if I’m honest.

This was probably the best picture, which I could probably fudge with a bit of Photoshop to be more colour accurate, maybe even add in that Ion Shield glow.

But I definitely need to work out a better backdrop, even a white pillow case will be better than three A3 sheets of paper! Can’t stand those seems and creases, grr!
So there you go, simple and effective, you could obviously download one of those textured backdrops too but obviously I’m getting that effect already with my Ferron Proxima sheet but anyone else – knock yourself out :) Let me know if you have a crack at it.

Team Yankee West German Tips and Tricks #2: Fuchs (TGBX06)

Posted on September 23rd, 2016 under , , , . Posted by

What does the Fuchs say….

Sorry ’bout that  :-)

Round 2 with the West Germans in Team Yankee from Battlefront.  This time we look at the Fuchs (TGBX06) and this Fuchs say va-va-va-voom!

A hefty little 6 wheeled all terrain troop transport to move those Panzergrenadiers around the battlefield.  Yes please!  You can find these bad boys in the Panzer Aufklarungs Kompanie list and can you can get 2 zugs of them with 3 Fuchs in each.

On to the models!

This is another very sweet kit. The kits I have for prepared are pre-release versions. This is an old-school resin hull with metal bits. These are chock full of detail and are VERY clean. The metal wheels had just a few metal whiskers and no flash or mold lines.

The fit of the wheels here is a very simple peg on the hull and hole in the wheel, but is very well designed. They are a different style than the Luchs wheels, but fit just as snug.

Build:  Since this was a pre-release kit, I didn’t have the instructions that are up on Battlefront now. But that didn’t matter! The kit is super easy; very intuitive…put all the wheels on one side of the hull.  Let those dry a little so that they don’t wiggle any more, then do the other side.
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Dark Angels – Land Speeder Typhoons – moar shots

Posted on September 8th, 2016 under , , , , , , , . Posted by

These are the ‘cinematic shots’ i.e. the ones with a shedload of filters on to try and make them more interesting. Unlike my pic of the Dark Talon I’m not sure if there’s any improvements but I always need some pics on my phone for various social media…

Creating a Snow Base

Posted on September 6th, 2016 under , , , , , , . Posted by

 I had a friend staying for a few days last week so we each painted a Rackham figure from my collection. I chose the Mystic of the Behemoth, a fantastically detailed wiry old orc shaman. I took a few WIP shots of the miniature but I don’t plan on doing a step by step for him. If you have any questions though I’ll be happy to answer them in the comments!

While I’m not doing a step by step for the miniature I would like to walk through the base, I’ve not tried a snow base before so it was new ground.
Once I had a basic plan for ‘snowy rock’ I grabbed some bark (scavenged from nearby woodland) and some bits of slate (I got mine from Element Games but you could find these around as well). Super glued them onto the included game base to make an outcropping.
It’s a good start but there is more to do, I used some Vallejo Oxide paste to help hide the ‘corkiness’ of the cork and fill some of the gaps, it will also be a nice base for the dirt and snow.
PVA glue and some dirt out of the garden were then added on top to mix up the texture of the paste.
Primed with my usual zenithal technique. I then went back in with some watered down black paint and made sure every nook and cranny was filled.
I hit all the areas that I wanted to be dirt with some tank brown.
Then dry brushed with tank brown mixed with off white.
I added some pigments to the dirt as well, browns and a bit of brown and black mixed in the darker areas. For the rock areas I again drybrushed with GW Fenrisian Grey and then an almost white Fenrisian Grey/White mix. While drybrushing is great for rocks it can leave a bit of an odd appearance in place so I went back in with some watered down fenrisian grey/white mix and helped blend some of the highlights so they were less stark.
Here is the figure pinned to the base. I could have stopped here, maybe added some foliage but I wanted to experiment with snow and see what I could achieve.
I mixed up a paste in a plastic pot I had spare, the mix was PVA glue, Bicarbonate of Soda and a little white paint. Depending on what ratios you add the glue in depends on what kind of snow effect you get at the end. I wanted quite a settled thick layer so I went pretty heavy with the bicarbonate of soda. I applied the snow to the miniature with an old brush and a tooth pick in some places where I needed more precision. Around the miniatures feet it didn’t bother me if I got some on the robes and boots, he’s been travelling through the snow after all! After this was done I then sprinkled some more bicarbonate of soda on top afterwards to get a powdery look.
Leave it to dry and then lightly brush off the excess bicarbonate of soda. Again at this point you could stop but I wanted to push it further! Roman Lappat from Massive Voodoo did a fantastic article on snow back in January ( I’ve been strongly influenced by both the article and some of the recent works he’s done . He talks a lot about temperature of snow shadows and how they’re not just white. I used some turquoise mixed with white, heavily diluted to add some colour to the shadows of the base. This was….difficult. I know Roman uses an airbrush but I only have brushes and it was hard to do this over the texture of the bicarbonate base. I ended up with quite a subtle effect but I think it adds a lot to the final appearance. Another way to do this in the future might be to paint the effect on the base underneath and then use a thinner layer of the snow paste so the colours still show through.
Another tip I got from Roman is making icicles! He uses clear plastic tubes melted with a lighter. I didn’t have any tubes so I cut up an old tic tac box I had on my desk into plastic shards. I melted them slightly to create the icicle drop effect and then carefully superglued them to the base in areas where I felt melting snow might cause them to form. I used gloss varnish on the icicles and some areas of the rock near the snow (to give that slight icy appearance that you see on frozen rocks sometimes) I also put more detail into the snow on his robes, boots and staff. Using PVA and sprinkling Bicarbonate over it. I envision that he used his staff as a walking stick and perhaps probing areas of the snow to test the ground!
I also used some crushed glass, you can buy this from a number of manufacturers but I didn’t have any so I made some myself out of some spare glass and a pestle and mortar. If you do try this be careful, wear safety glasses, thick gloves and a face mask. You don’t want to inhale crushed glass trust me!
I mixed the crushed glass with some satin varnish and a little bicarbonate of soda to make a paste. I then carefully brushed this onto areas where I wanted the light to hit the snow the most (mostly the right areas of the model and a little bit on his cloaks. This was quite fiddly and the effect isn’t as good as I hoped it would be, it still adds that little sparkle when you move the model that you get from snow though. Final step was to paint the original gaming base black.
Looking back through this I realise that a lot of the effort painting the rocks was…well wasted because they’re now covered in snow! Sometimes though you just run with something and even if these end up hidden it helps you reach the final look you want.
So that’s how I created my snow base! Share any questions or experiences you have with basing snow below in the comments. Check out the other article ( for some better showcase shots of the final piece.

Dark Angels – Land Speeder Typhoons – To Done!

Posted on September 6th, 2016 under , , , , , , , . Posted by

I’d been holding out for the weekend to get my To Done! pics done. I make the fundamental mistake of using natural light and with autumn approaching that’s going to be in short supply. I’ve a plan to fix that though so ‘bear with’.I wasn’t overly impr…

Dark Angels – Land Speeder Typhoons gravitic plate

Posted on August 30th, 2016 under , , , , , , , . Posted by

The irony of posting these WiP shots of the gravitic plates underneath the Land Speeders is that the subsequent efforts over the weekend meant I applied the anti-shine varnish on the 28th August, the day of the new Hobby Season! That just goes to show I was dilly-dallying for good reason, any of those days I avoided working on the Speeders could have resulted in a 2015/16 stamp instead of a 2016/17. The fact is it makes no difference either way, borne out by my inability to feel dismayed they weren’t completed last season or happier they’ll ring out the new season in style. The reality is I’m playing the ‘To Done’ images out in my head and that mental celebration is a win regardless of 24 hours hear or there.

The glow effects were not as straight forward as I’d imagined. Orange was always the first choice, red was considered but with the red lights I thought it’d confuse matters. I must remember to always do the Macharius Solar orange glow though. When thinned it really does add the ‘halo’ effect, whereas the darker craft acrylic when thinned just sticks to the crevices. You cannot make the glow with it alone, it just defines the shape.

With the varnish dry I was not happy with the anti-shine finish, too many brush strokes were visible. This is a recurring issue on the black, particularly flat surfaces where there is no place to hide. So I cranked out the airbrush and tried to be a little more careful than I was with the Nephilim. In fact I think I had to spray on even more varnish but luckily it didn’t go ‘dusty’ [on initial inspection at least]. The second coat did at least manage to even out the varnish and cover the brush marks. All that remains to do is Tamiya Clear Red X-27 the lights, Tamiya Clear Orange X-26 the targeting lenses and then take the To Done pictures and I can get my first Big Purple Stamp of Approval.

Then what…? I guess I’ll have to check the list, I mean it’s what it’s there for afterall!

Tutorial: M8 Greyhound (Bolt Action)

Posted on August 29th, 2016 under , , , , . Posted by

Hello again,After painting my very first Bolt Action model recently (Sherman M4) I got kinda encouraged by positive feedback and was also asked some questions about colors and materials used. So while waiting for US infantry arrival I ordered another …

Paint Recipes Index

Posted on August 27th, 2016 under , , , . Posted by

Welcome to the Index page for our new paint recipes section!Recently a group was founded on Facebook, dedicated purely to the sharing of painting recipes, from elaborate multi-glaze NMM to tricks and shortcuts for getting things on the tabletop in reco…

Team Yankee: West German Tips & Tricks #1: Spahpanzer Luchs (TGBX05)

Posted on August 24th, 2016 under , , . Posted by

Guten tag comaraden!

Translation:  Hey y’all!

It’s me! SonBae! Live from WWPD-South, bringing to you another in my installment of tips and tricks from models from Battlefront’s Team Yankee game.  This time we are going to look at models from the newest faction to enter the Team Yankee fray, the West Germans.

First up is the Luchs (TGBX05).  No, not the PzII variant from World War II, although it does bear a closer resemblance to an 8-Rad or Puma.  This Luchs is a sleek little all-terrain Armored Car.  In Leopard, you can find these bad boys in all of the West German lists.  You can get up to 2 Trupps of 2 Luchs each in the Leopard II Panzer Kompanie, Marder Panzergrenadier Kompanie and up to 4 Trupps of 2 Luchs eat in the Panzer Aufklarungs Kompanie.  You get some pretty cool rules with it  like Spearhead, Scout and thermal that help beef up that 20mm gun.

On to the models!
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Team Yankee: ZSU23-4 Shilka Tips and Tricks #6

Posted on August 18th, 2016 under , , , . Posted by

Finally! We have come to the end of this series. I hope this has been enjoyable and informative for you.  We get to wrap this up with a discussion of one of my favorite AAA systems.  A radar controlled quad 23mm machine gun!?!?!?!? Battlefront serves up another Soviet system for their Team Yankee version of Flames of War. Now its time to talk about the ZSU 23-4 Shilka AA Platoon boxed set (TSBX05) where I give a little review and share my thoughts and tricks and tips on this model.

Bottomline up front…Yet ANOTHER great resin kit. This is a solid resin and metal kit where the turret and hull are resin and the main gun barrel and tracks are white metal.

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Headswaps 101

Posted on August 10th, 2016 under , , , , . Posted by

I realised the other day that it has been an absolute age since I last did any kind of tutorial, fortunately an opportunity has rather presented itself…

My client has two of these rather handsome totally-not-Hugo Weaving figures and we were debat…

Bamboo Bases

Posted on July 31st, 2016 under , , , , , . Posted by

As I’ve had a number of Bushido figures covering my desk over the last few weeks I thought I’d add a few minutes to each build to add some nice bases to the figures (the usual grass and rocks just didn’t … Continue reading

How Not To Play Crossfire Video

Posted on July 29th, 2016 under , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Posted by

Following on from the “Operation Crossfire: Smoke & Close Combat” video is yet another useful introductory video by Nikolas Lloyd, covering How Not To Play Crossfire! This gives a quick introduction to what not to do tactically when playing Crossfire – the rules

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