Posts Tagged ‘Tutorial’

Grim’s Dungeons of Doom: Realm of the dead; Opening Cemetery Gates.

Posted on June 18th, 2016 under , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Posted by

It’s Saturday, and that means it’s yet another post for Grim’s Dungeons of Doom, that being of the advanced (but still quite easy) version of the cemetery gateway, actual opening gates. I have tried to use alternatives methods and materials to give you some different ideas that you can take away and adapt for your […]

Battle Wear – Part 2

Posted on June 18th, 2016 under , , , , . Posted by

It seems like an eternity since I started this model (see Part 1 of the article here) but unexpected ill health has meant that I haven’t been able to do much these last few weeks. Luckily I now have to … Continue reading

Envelhecimento com Laquê – Tutorial de pintura do “Imperial Bastion”.

Posted on June 13th, 2016 under , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Posted by

  Hello Reader!   This is the Portuguese version of the article about the “hairspray weathering” technique published here today. You can check the link for the English version.   Over and out!   +++   Olá Leitor!   O ritmo de preparativos para o “Rumble in the Jungle II – A Missão” está intenso […]

Hairspray weathering – Imperial Bastion painting tutorial.

Posted on June 13th, 2016 under , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Posted by

  Olá Leitor.   Esta é a versão em inglês do artigo sobre a técnica de pintura conhecida como “Técnica do Laquê” (“Hairspray Weathering” em inglês). Para conferir a versão em português você pode clicar o link.   Abraço e até breve.   +++   Hello Reader.   Preparations for the “Rumble in the Jungle […]

Grim’s Dungeons of Doom: Realm of the dead; Cemetery Gateway

Posted on June 11th, 2016 under , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Posted by

Hello everyone, it’s me Grim. In my absence, I at least have been amassing a fair bit of material here to continue on with both this series and the blog. I hope you’ll forgive my leave, but shit happens. So, it’s been a while since posting the last dungeons of doom article. With that in […]

Samson Goes to the Movies, Part 7!

Posted on June 4th, 2016 under , . Posted by

Woooo the sequels just keep coming! Many thanks to the master of ceremonies, the Jango to my Boba,  The Cranium, Atom Smashing. This time around we do a little jazz magic on a lavaland base. Archaon make an appearance too!

Flames of War- A Basic Basing Tutorial

Posted on June 2nd, 2016 under , . Posted by

  My tutorial will just show you a couple ways to model some nice flames of war bases. It will also give you a list of things that you can consider when figuring out how to base your army. When planning out your army you need to consider where the unit/army fought, the weather, the gear and uniforms and the season. They’re many different types of basing including some of the more basic ones, Snow, Desert, Dirt and Grass. You need to plan accordingly to what you want and what you like but still take into account the models you are using. (Nobody wants winter Germans in the desert)

    So in order to know what direction you are heading in, you first need to know what model’s you will be working with. If you have guys suited for a specific theatre of war like the DAK in North Afrika or the Finnish Ski troops in the alps then you’ve already narrowed it down some. Then you need to make decision on if you want to go ahead and theme the base to coincide with the same theme as the model. Winter bases with Finnish ski infantry and desert bases with the DAK hoofing it through the sands. This is a important decision because sometimes if you head over a buddies house or go to play in a tournament your models might not look right on that board. If you like your model’s to blend in to most boards then the standard Dirt, Tufts and Grass is the best way for you. However when you put alot of effort into a winter or desert army and finally do get to play on a board that matchs the basing it is truly rewarding. So let me run you through my basing process and the material. I’m going to use Golden’s fiber paste and just do up some empty bases.

          Whatever platoon you’re working on a brush and a putty, paste or pumice gel of your choice!
Read more »

How to embed the Oldhammer Opponent Finder on your blog.

Posted on May 17th, 2016 under , , , , . Posted by

Hi All,Since I had a question about how to embed the opponent finder on one’s own blog, I made a little video. I decided to have this one unlisted as the last video I put on youtube was not very well received, and it hurt my feelings. ;)Anyway, I edite…

Hill Making Tutorial

Posted on May 17th, 2016 under , , , , , , . Posted by

By Luke Melia

War gaming hills.  They are an integral part of the terrain features on all of our tables no matter what system we play.  Hills also provide depth to tables, block line of site and provide cover from enemy fire.  When people have asked me over the years what types of terrain they should make first for their tables, I always say “hills” without question.  There are a lot of different techniques for making hills and there is, by no means, a right or a wrong way of making them.  Terrain is a very personal thing for me.  Ultimately you have to be happy with the way any piece of terrain looks on your table.  To that end, I would remind everyone that this is the way I like to build hills an it works well for me.   If you have some alternate methods please feel free to share on our forum. 

I am going to show you a couple of different types of hills and rocky outcroppings that I have been working on.

You start with pin (or blue) insulating foam. You as several choices in the thickness of the board.  This will determine how tall your hills will be.  I chose two inch thick so I would get more height, specifically for the rocky outcroppings.  I use a jig saw to cut out the rough shape of the hill then use a Styrofoam cutter that you can purchase from any hobby or craft store to shape the hill into the shape I like.

Read more »

Magnetising a Space Marine Drop Pod

Posted on May 8th, 2016 under , , , . Posted by

I had a request from a client recently to magnetise the weapons on a space marine Drop Pod, and as I keep thinking that I should try my best to give back to the community in the form of tutorials, I decided this was the perfect opportunity to try it out! Magnetising Weapons on a Space … Continue reading Magnetising a Space Marine Drop Pod

Dark Angels – Ravenwing update

Posted on April 28th, 2016 under , , , , , , , , . Posted by

Painting the feathers on the Ravenwing should not be my priority. I seem to be saying that a lot actually. The bikes themselves are but the wings should really be done after I’ve finished the metals and the black because I’m clearly going to screw it u…

MOAR Vortex Templates

Posted on April 24th, 2016 under , , , , , , , . Posted by

Despite the arm pain I actually managed to do some bits. In fact because I took the day off to see the doctor I had some free time and in a moment of madness I just decided to knock out a couple more Vortex templates. Having enjoyed the fun of them in …

Stone Walling

Posted on April 11th, 2016 under , , , , . Posted by

Well it’s been a couple of weeks since I’ve had time to get anything hobby related done (work/life balance totally screwed ) but I’ve had a chance to do some quick five minute tests with a toy I picked up … Continue reading

How To: Pinning and Tab Pinning

Posted on April 9th, 2016 under , , , , , , . Posted by

I’ve spent a little time recently building minis from Knight Models to clear some space in my cupboard and decided it might be useful to do a little “How To” on pinning and tab pinning models to bases. A lot of people will already know these, or at lea…

Samson Goes To The Movies, Part 5!

Posted on April 7th, 2016 under , , , . Posted by

This time, Adam and I got down to some business on skin tones. Featuring our lovely model Lathiem Oakleaf. Thanks to everyone at Tabletop Minons!Enjoy!

‘nids part 194 – Tyranid Void Shield Generator part 8.

Posted on April 3rd, 2016 under , , , , , , , , , . Posted by

Second side plate completed. I think I’m getting the hang of this now, I mean it’s not the most amazing sculpting, it’s pretty basic in fact but it’s a level I comfortable with, both in results and effort involved to achieve it.  I know I could a…

‘nids part 193 – Tyranid Void Shield Generator part 7.

Posted on April 1st, 2016 under , , , , , , , , , . Posted by

This work was all done before Throne of Skulls, managed to get the third Chitin plate doneand the flesh joints between the smaller spines.They’re really quite effective.Looking forward to getting the side plates done next.Fourth spine plate done.I’ve a…

How to build a castle: part IV – bricks&colour testing// Budowa zamku Drakenborg – próbne malowanie cegieł

Posted on March 27th, 2016 under , , , , , , , , . Posted by


Today’s entry was originally intended to show only the effects of the tests that I carried out in order to find the optimal color scheme for the walls of the castle. Due to numerous inquiries from our facebook readers about the way of creating bricks I decided to show you the process. At the same time, I would like to ask you for help as I am looking for  tips/ideas that would improve the appearance/painting of the catle walls.  I am looking forward for your comments under the post :)

Dzisiejszy wpis miał początkowo przestawiać jedynie efekty testów jakie przeprowadziłem w celu znalezienia optymalnej kolorystyki dla murów zamkowych. Z uwagi na liczne zapytania o sposób tworzenia cegieł postanowiłem przy okazji pokazać wam jak je wykonuję żeby część z was mogła znaleźć w tym wpisie odpowiedzi na swoje pytania. Jednocześnie chciałbym poprosić Was o podpowiedzi/pomysły, które pomogłyby mi usprawnić wygląd/malowanie cegieł. Czekam na wasze komentarze pod postem:)

Tests were conducted on a piece of styrofoam which was previously smoothed with sandpaper to remove the outer shiny layer. The next step was to draw one horizontal line for every 8 mm of material.

Testy przeprowadziłem na kawałku styroduru, który uprzednio wygładziłem papierem ściernym w celu usunięcia zewnętrznej śliskiej warstwy. Następnym etapem było narysowanie poziomych linii. Swoje linie maluję w odstępie 8 mm. 

The next step is to draw vertical lines. My bricks usually have length of 16-18 mm but some could be smaller to make the finished wall more interesting. I decided to prepare one of the testing areas differently by drawing irregularly arranged squares and rectangles.
Kolejnym krokiem jest narysowanie pionowych linii. Moje cegły mają standardowo 16-18 mm ale niektóre są mniejsze żeby gotowa ściana była bardziej interesująca. Jeden z obszarów styroduru postanowiłem przygotować trochę inaczej, rysując nieregularnie ułożone kwadraty i prostokąty. 

All the lines were incised with a modeling knife. Then I used the pen to enlarge the cracks between the bricks. Next step was to crush the surface of styrofoam with a sharp stone. Some of the bricks were pushed in to create even more irregularities. 

Wszystkie linie nacinam nożykiem, a następnie przejeżdżam długopisem by powiększyć szpary między cegłami. Następnie tworzę fakturę rozbijając powierzchnię styroduru za pomocą ostrego kamienia. Część cegiełek wciskam w strukturę ściany tworząc jeszcze więcej nieregularności. W ten sposób uzyskuję finalny wygląd cegiełek. W razie wystąpienia nienaturalnych uszkodzeń naprawiam je za pomocą samoutwardzalnej gliny.

I will not discuss the painting process exactly because these are only the tests and I do not know if I use any of these schemes  when the castle will be ready to paint. I decided that one of the tests will be performed on the white primer.

Procesu malowania nie będę omawiał dokładnie z uwagi, że są to tylko testy i nie wiem czy zastosuje którykolwiek z tych tych schematów malując gotowy zamek. Postanowiłem jeden z testów przeprowadzić na białym podkładzie.

During the painting I used different shades of beiges and grays. After applying the basic color I filled some of the  gaps between bricks with plaster. Excess was wiped off with paper. Unfortunately when everything was dried I had to reapply basic colours and start the painting process from the beginning.

W czasie malowania używałem odcieni beży i szarości. Po nałożeniu podstawowych kolorów postanowiłem część szpar między cegłami wypełnić gipsem. Nadmiar gipsu wytarłem papierem. Niestety po jego wyschnięciu musiałem ponownie nałożyć podstawowe kolory.

Next I applied some highlights using dry brush technique. I also added several different colors to the bricks using washes and diluted acrylics.

Dalszymi krokami było rozjaśnianie za pomocą metody suchego pędzla i pokrycie niektórych cegiełek washami o różnych odcieniach.

I covered the lower parts of the walls with thinned green paint to imitate the moss.

Dolne fragmenty murków pokryłem rozrzedzoną farbą o zgniłym kolorze w celu imitacji mchu na kamieniach. 

The last stage was to apply different pigments. Below you can see the final effect after the tests were finished.

Ostatnim etapem było nałożenie różnokolorowych pigmentów. Testowałem kolory, które potencjalnie mogłyby pasować więc w różnych miejscach użyłem różnych barw by sprawdzić finalny efekt każdego z nich. Poniżej możecie zobaczyć to co wyszło po zakończeniu prac nad murkami.

To sum up , I think I will finally use the painting scheme which will be close to the one that you can see in the leftmost side of the picture. I like the effect of filled gaps between the bricks even though it is quite time consuming. I also think that I will start painting process from white undercoat to make the bricks a little brighter . I will use the pattern on the rightmost site of the picture to create the courtyard of the castle . 

What do you think of this? What could be improved? Maybe you have some other ideas on the color/painting of the castle ? I look forward to your comments and suggestions.

Podsumowując, na tę chwilę uważam, że do pomalowania zamku wykorzystam schemat zbliżony do tego, który jest widoczny na murku najbliżej lewej strony zdjęcia. Podoba mi się efekt wypełnienia zaprawą odstępów między cegiełkami chociaż jest dosyć pracochłonny. Myślę też, że spróbuje wyjść od j jasnego podkładu (być może nawet białego) tak żeby szare cegły były jaśniejsze.  Wzór najbardziej z prawej wykorzystam do stworzenia posadzki dziedzińca zamku. 

Co sądzicie o tym malowaniu? Co mógłbym ulepszyć? Może macie jakieś inne pomysły na kolor zamku? Czekam na Wasze komentarze i podpowiedzi. 

WIP: Tokens for Tyler

Posted on March 26th, 2016 under , , , , . Posted by

Adepticon is just around the corner folks :) This time of year always carrys a lot of deadlines for me. I’m always guaranteed to paint an army for the event along with other, soft score, related items like display boards etc. A client of mine is playin…

Quick Infinity Terrain: Food Booths

Posted on March 26th, 2016 under , , , , , , . Posted by

One of the goals with the space station terrain set was to make the whole thing look like not just a collection of tactically interesting obstacles but also a (relatively) sensible, lived-in/working facility. Right now the non-cargo bay area is a bit plain, really just the Impudent Mortal walls in my collection arranged in various … Continue reading Quick Infinity Terrain: Food Booths