I'm on a mission. I'm going to smash all my unfinished projects like an Inceptor making an orbital drop on a mob of Orks. I'm firing on full auto at the moment as cut through projects in rapid succession. I'm painting at least one project a week. After the jump see more shots the Inceptor unit and I'll share 'The List' with you. More after the jump
Instead of painting new figures this past week, I've mostly continued re-basing of all the existing Necromunda figures...The group for this week...Well... most of them...Okay I did finish off two totally new minis... another ganger and a miniature I thought Amanda could use as her Rogue Doc Hanger on: Doc Sanders. The Doc Sanders is, I think, a Shadowrun miniature...? the medical kit came from my bitz box - it think it was originally from a Tempestus medic?)Mechanicus! We have an Explorator - Jer-Ohm (from Lead Adventure Astropolis), a couple of Servitors and a very youthful adept (also from Lead Adventure Astropolis). Explorators are Cult Mechanicus tech priestsTwo of the Spyrers - Abraham Ran Lo and Constance Helmawr (yes, of THOSE Helmawrs... she's officially 3416th in line of succession, though... so...).A pair of Scavvies - Exvus and Rakkr - a right nasty pair, these two - know to eat the faces off of their victims in hopes that it might make them pretty... it doesn't seem to be working (Exvus is an old
40k for the people It’s hard to pinpoint the most popular figure game in the world, but the legendary Warhammer 40,000 will be placed on the podium in each ranking. This system draws its strength from the grim, heroic universe and from models that almost anyone can fall in love with. The world created by GW has grown dozens of spin-offs for years. We have a board games, card games, computer and mobile games, books, comics … Soon there will be a tv series and another film (after the not very successful “Ultramarines”). A matter of time is the appearance of breakfast cereals with Aquilla… Something that hinders the development of popularity of “40k” is the game itself. As a miniature wargame, it puts quite a barrier at the entrance for the new players. The models are beautiful however preparing a full army to play is a demanding task. It is not only about the price, but also the amount of work that a newcomer will have to put into preparing and painting an army of mode
++PICT CAPTURE LEVEL 1, REQUEST LEVEL 3 SERVO SKULL SCAN TO ENHANCE AFTER THE JUMP++After the jump I share some close ups of my Hellblasters and give some tips on how I painted the heat effects on the weapon muzzles and how I paint the freehand icons. More after the jump
Update on my Land Raider. With the hull almost finished apart from transfers, I'm now working on all the sub-assemblies. There are a lot, but it's coming along. So far, I added the tracks, hatches, and some of the turret pieces. Next I'm working on all the guns. Leave a comment or reaction below to keep me motivated!
It’s time for another GMG Review! Today I’m checking out a HUGE box of models from Games Workshop – the new 2 Player Necromunda Starter Set: Uprising! Check out my Let’s Make when I start assembling components HERE:
Buenos dias Ninjabread readers. Today my Mexican-flavoured vintage Space Marine army gets some Adeptus Mechanicus reinforcements. An “Adeptus Mexicanicus”, if you will. I’m gonna paint all my Techmarines with that big blue hand symbol so they can rub banners with each other while solemnly chanting “high five” in High Gothic. This Marine is one of the vintage Mark Copplestone designs, wearing a modified suit of mk 6 power armour – instantly recognisable from its chest cabling and beaked helmet. What makes the Copplestone Techmarines really stand out is the wealth of bonus tech details – the toolbox, the magnifying lenses, the drillbit and equipment mounted on the belt. They’re a joy to paint. “A day like today is not a day for soundbites, we can leave those at home, but I feel the hand of history upon our shoulder with respect to this, I really do.” The gnarly witch hand sculpted onto the right shoulder is the original symbol of the Adeptus Mechanicus, before it ch
So I have this Land Raider Crusader I bought years ago (I think it was around 2012 before the price increase from 45 Euro to 50 Euro – nowadays it's 65 Euro lol), and year after year I vow in my hobby resolutions posts to finally paint it. Finally, the time has come. Don't care for Repulsors or Impulsors, give me the iconic Land Raider instead. It's actually the first Land Raider I painted in over 20 years of hobbying, can you believe it?The kit really shows its age. Fit is bad, there are lots of mould lines, and some of the details are probably worn out in the mould. Assembly was a chore, but I soldiered on and painted the main hull. There are a lot of extra pieces to paint, hatchets, turrets, frag and smoke launchers, so I think the model will keep me busy for a couple weeks. But in the end, I'll be able to add a cool centrepiece and transport option for my classic Ultramarines Close Combat Terminators. What do you think? How many Land Raiders did you paint in your hobby career?
Never say "Never!"I have learned this all too well, so many times over.I've never really been overly fond of plastic slotta bases - at least with metal figures. They were too light and I felt they made the over all model top heavy. I also thought they were a bit plinth-like - making scale creeping models even TALLER than older smaller models I had based on... well... other, thinner materials I've used throughout the years.I've absolutely HATED black sides on bases. I especially hated them on plastic bases. Why, when one spent so much time making the top surface of the base so beautiful with a grassy scene or desert with scrub, would you paint the sides of a plastic base BLACK (instead of green or brown - to match the top of the base or your table terrain)!? As most plastic bases are black, it just looked to me like you forgot or couldn't be bothered to paint them. It looked unfinished and lazy. I also found the contrast jarring when looking at them on a finely manicured tabletop - especially in close-up photo
#Dreadtober update and as promised yesterday, today is just a preliminary wrap-up of pics. There's still varnishing to do and adding some flock but it's effectively complete. I have to say Dreadtober has been an absolute joy this year. Sure I made it easy on myself by prepping so much of it in advance, but I do that with all my projects and even so I almost [actually] didn't meet the deadline so I can't be too hard on myself - I know my pace. I think next year I'll have to post every time I progress instead of sticking to my schedule and doubling. it might be a nice exercise in micro-blogging and also help with the whole community vibe.It's also worth mentioning Mordian 7th's hard working in keeping Dreadtober up-to-date not to mention painting his own Contemptor Achillus. Collating everyone's work in an additional blog is a thankless task, so I just thought I'd say 'thank you'! lastly a couple of comparison pics, alongside my old skool Rhino/Razorback. Not quite as saturated green, but th
#Dreadtober update - "so say we all" fellow Dreadtoberists and Dreadtoberistas! Given the timescale I pushed [aka rushed] on through with this last night. Not only did I resolve most of the remaining details, but I got the glow FX and battle damage done.Now the glow FX is not my best work, but once again I can live with that. Tyler Mengel covered something applicable last week in his article The Art of the Shortcut I'm referring to - 'point 2. Focal Points', in that although my glow FX is the brightest colour and stands out, the actual high quality shading of the bulk of the model may help mitigate the roughness of the glow and gives the illusion that it has all been painted to the same standard. Either way I'm not that fussed, it's alright and I'm happy with 'alright'.With the reactor glow done I could finally glue on the Dark Angel reliquary. I broke it off about 5 minutes later so I can foresee that super-gluing it is going to come back and haunt me. If it does it again I may try polycement.The fist i
Owen returns with his custom Craftworld to face my Space Wolves in another 1750 ITC mission!
#Dreadtober update and time seems to be running out, but that's only because these first 2 pictures are from the 24th of Dreadtober. The truth is I'll most likely be on track to finish this, what with working on the details now. But trying to fit in the blog updates before the end of the month, now that's the difficult challenge.As you can see I've started to pick out some pipework on the sarcophagus, shaded his power fist, added grey and a shadow wash to the Dark Angel Chapter moulding on is front and also added a company number on his shoulderThe other shoulder will have a Dark Angel decal, so I've glossed it, complete with these chunky brush strokes 😞 I'll do another coat and see if it smooths out. I mean I could have free-handed this but for some reason just felt that a decal was the right way to go, time will tell.I had a few more details to pick out, [red pipes, lenses, Tyranid elements on the base, Dark Angel Relic trophies on the back, rivets etc.] highlight all the black areas and some other bits an
Some of the detail on this old 40K Scout was a bit vague so I really did not know how to paint it, so I pretty much kept him to a neutral scheme This is another model to be used in Rogue Stars as a henchman type dude.
#Dreadtober update and the verdigris has been added. Typically it is a mixed affair, where sometimes the application looks as close to what it can be in realityAnd then in other areas where it just looks like I've splodged turquoise paint on it. But the fist got quartered for the 5th company's badge and I also started shading all the panels with black. Again, subtle unwanted tide marks with the black, that's what happens when you don;t apply a layer of texture to hide all these mistakes! However, the subsequent highlights/glazes should mitigate this issue. Waaargh Flesh I think is the highlight, mainly drybrushed on but some areas where it was applied as a line-highlight and others where it was thinned and blended.I could feel myself rushing this a bit in places, but I'm thinking I may go back in with some Caliban Green, drybushed to help blend the lighter and darker shades together.This will also help cover up any marks I hadn't resolved, although if I do any weathering/battle damag