I realised I needed even more bases for the Salute project- here they are, something like 425-450 of the blighters. They are chamferred, magnetised and sanded to perfection, and I have spray-painted the edges so that I don't need to hand paint them, it'll save a few hours, later on. There's no point in spraying the tops brown as they are already primed and will be covered in minis and grout.The above stands are mostly for veteran legionaries, and the below for standard and raw. I prime everything in Halfords grey, below you can see other bases before priming.gAnd these are command stands, and stands for elephants and lights, and a bombard for the early Renaissance.The bases are from my various ranges, mostly designed by myself and Ian Notter.So I have no excuse, now, I need to get some minis on bases!
Never say "Never!"I have learned this all too well, so many times over.I've never really been overly fond of plastic slotta bases - at least with metal figures. They were too light and I felt they made the over all model top heavy. I also thought they were a bit plinth-like - making scale creeping models even TALLER than older smaller models I had based on... well... other, thinner materials I've used throughout the years.I've absolutely HATED black sides on bases. I especially hated them on plastic bases. Why, when one spent so much time making the top surface of the base so beautiful with a grassy scene or desert with scrub, would you paint the sides of a plastic base BLACK (instead of green or brown - to match the top of the base or your table terrain)!? As most plastic bases are black, it just looked to me like you forgot or couldn't be bothered to paint them. It looked unfinished and lazy. I also found the contrast jarring when looking at them on a finely manicured tabletop - especially in close-up photo
These are the additional bases required for my Salute game (luckily, my Numidians are already based). There are (I think) 124 of them, each of which needed the edges to be chamfered and fitted with 6-12 magnets. They took me something like 5 weeks of evenings to do, I went through around 60 Xacto blades and a couple of fingers.The bases at the back are from my FK&P14 range- two of them fit in a 20cm square. The bases at the front are from various other ranges and three fit in a 20cm square. Laid edge to edge, there are 10 metres worth of bases here; the reason for having so many is that both armies will be formed up four units deep across the whole width of the battlefield.Now I just need to fill them with minis!
Some excellent photos of Swedish artillery from the collection of Russian enthusuast Alexey Kovshikov.Alexey wanted me to point out that this outstanding work was done by painter Mikhail Mirosnik.It shows both Warfare Miniatures and Ebob Miniatures sculpts together.These blend very well and Mikhail has done an outstanding job in making each piece work.Thanks for sharing Alexey.Link to Alexey's blog
I believe that only three things are certain, in life: Death, taxes and the need to re-base miniatures.I base well over 1000 minis a year, mostly onto the very large bases I designed and use with "To the Strongest!" and "For King and Parliament." Perhaps half of these need to be stripped off old bases, first, usually the 2mm MDF bases that we have learned to love over the last decade.* Following a discussion on TMP, I thought it might be useful to describe how I do this, because I have had a lot of practice!The steps are:1. Find a tray with a flat bottom, a jug of water and, ideally, a stack of pennies.2. Place the bases in the tray on a couple of pennies each (this allows water to get under the bases, and speeds the process). See pic above.3. Carefully pour water into the tray, to bring the level of the water level with the top of the bases. If a little water goes onto the top of the bases, that's all for the good. However, should the minis be in water up to their knees (or hooves), you risk damaging their p
Some new stuff which can be found in the shop:A Cossack unit equivalent to an infantry battalion. It contains three packs of Cossacks advancing (COS01) with musket and one Command pack (COS02). Price is £31 ex postage. The flag is not included nor or are the bases.The unit pictured has 18 models but there are 20 models in the battalion pack.Second up, I have a limited number of the excellent Janissary Cauldron Bearer set. This is available at the normal infantry pack price of £8.50 ex postage.
To say I have been totally absorbed by my new obsession for 1/2400 scale 1650-1720 period ships would be the understatement of my hobby life time. Not since my Ost Front Microtanks phase of the late 1990s have I been this driven to finding information and being productive on an industrial scale.2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th rates plus Fireship and Heoker - a cross section of my growing Dutch Fleet for the Medway fight of 1667I am already working on a mini-campaign covering the spectacular 1667 Tocht naar Chatham (The journey to Chatham). This has been inspired by the campaign itself, Mark Backhouse's spectacular 2mm scale Siege of Portsmouth and Tumbling Dice's ship models.2nd Rate (80-90 guns) - the largest ships in the Dutch Admiralties - this one is De Ruyter's flagship De Zeven ProvincienThe campaign will be a combination of scales: 1/2400 Tumbling Dice models for the ships, 2mm Irregular Miniatures for the board movement of troops, Brigade Models 2mm buildings which actually seem to suit the 1/2400 ships better tha
two bases from a three base Cossack infantry unitI have too many projects going at the same time. Purely a function of bringing out new figures for Warfare Miniatures. Painting samples for the website means that lots of things get started but very often wait for a long time to get finished.Command and three models to be added to this Russian unit in kartuzEvery base on this post is part of a unit which has not yet been completed but is getting some serious attention right now.Danish battalion Prinds Jorgen - not quite finished yetAll will be available as battalion deals when I finally get them done. This should be in time for the release of With Talon and Claw the Great Northern War supplement for Beneath the Lily Banners 3rd edition - which is now finished.Part of Danish battalion JyskeMany of the units will be equally at home in the armies of the Maritime Powers fighting Louis XIV between 1701 and 1714. The Prussians in particular.Prussian Guard battalion baseSeveral codes can be fielded in the Turkis
In a previous Terrain Corner I showed a simple way of reusing old terrain pieces for the upcoming War Banner game Mortal Gods. This time round I’m going to go a little deeper into some [...] The post Terrain Corner – Mortal Gods appeared first on Tabletop Games UK.
With Mortal Gods due at the end of the month I realised that when it came to terrain for the period and the location of ancient Greece I was a bit lacking. This felt like [...] The post Terrain Corner – Refreshing Old & Natural Terrain appeared first on Tabletop Games UK.
Charge! The Swedish Liv Dragoon Regiment thunders down upon its quaking enemiesIt's a legitimate question. Why has it taken you so long to produce a unit of your own cavalry, based in your own 'chevron' style?Time and conflicting priorities is the answer. I don't have enough of the former and an abundance of the latter.Squadron 1 full charge in chevronI did paint about eighteen riders but only three or four horses. That enabled me to get the web shop stocked but a long way off a 'game ready' unit.Squadron 1 - the chevron is more obvious from this angleSince these chaps emerge about a year ago we've released about another 140 models many of which required painting. We done several show, travelled hundreds of gaming miles and I have been working on several publications and articles. Not excuses, just facts.Squadron 1 rear viewNevertheless, the rapid progress on the new GNW supplement inspired me to get some of these chaps table ready and photographed. I painted around seventeen horses and an additional three ri
Russian Force #1 details below in the textWhere have I been then? Up to my armpits in getting the GNW/Eastern Wars supplement for Beneath the Lily Banners 3rd edition moved forward.Russian field gun in a log redoubtThe book is being laid out right now and the early views are very encouraging. Despite a pretty extensive archive of shots, I knew I didn't have enough of the right kind. I have thus forsaken the paint brush since January 1 and focused on focusing the lens on the toys.Russian Moscow Dragoons move up to the front.As I have mentioned in previous posts. You need to take a lot of pictures to get the shots you want. So far, the new book has spaces for over 150 shots so that means hundreds of clicks in order to produce this required (and growing) number. The book is already at circa 140 pages and rising (largely due to the lay out format we have been using).RUSSIAN FORCE #1 (Photo at top of post)Drilled battalion REGULATION with flintlock @ 1.5 point x 4 = 6 pointsRaw battalion REGULATION with flintlock
Here are my Italian Condotta for Chalgrove. Last night I grouted the bases, and now just need to flock and tuft them. I am tempted to replace the pikemen with some spearmen that Shaun McT is painting, and add some tents for a camp, but other than that they are mostly done, which is just as well since I'm a little behind with my Salute preparations! The bases are currently raw umber which seems like an appropriate base colour. :-)These are on FK&P5 and FK&P6 bases; I really like these because they are a good fit for both 15cm (2 bases) and 20cm (3 bases) grids.
There are a few, no – there are many techniques in this hobby that are mysterious. Well at least to me – Pinning Models to Bases. You see the odd picture on Facebook or Instagram of someone doing something. But you’re always left wondering… Why and how do they do that? Should I be doing it? One such technique that falls into this category for me is pinning models to their bases. You can glue the model to the base sure. But I’d seen people pinning the model to the base. And now I know why and how – let […] The post Pinning Models to Bases appeared first on Warhammer 40K Blog.
With my new Raven Guard force well on its way to being done, I thought I’d share how I did their simple dry mud bases. Big thanks to The Unrelenting Brush for the Seraphim Sepia and dry brush hint. That single technique makes these bases pop and it’s something I now need to do to my 60 odd Guardsmen! Never miss an article? Subscribe! Remember to paint your whole base with a brown before using Agrellan. I use Steel Legion Drab on the whole base. Including the rim. When the texture dries this ensures you still see brown through where […] The post Dry Mud Bases appeared first on Warhammer 40K Blog.