Great video review on this new book. The book is excellent reference on painting vehicle and troops. All can found quickly. I purchased my copy of amazon. Sit back and enjoy the video
This video will help you get that ages wood effect.
The latest crazy is Games Workshop contrast paints? Yes I got suckered into buying them. At $7.95 a tiny bottle, one has to be worried about knocked the bottle over. I remember making my own contrast wash years ago. But forgot the mix. Today I founded on this you tube channel. Yet make your and save big bucks.Here is the video. You decide!
Here is a series on how to use the modulation painting system on armor. I found this way of paiting a to be a pain. It seems soemwhere I screw up the process. Hope this will help you. The process is shown over three videos.
In this post, I take a look at the Hunt Saboteur Miniature by Tally-Ho Games. They offer this miniature in The post Hunt Saboteur Miniature appeared first on Must Contain Minis [MCM].
How to paint stone walls.3DAlienWorlds BLOG<< Assembling the samurai stone walls2018-08-22Samurai Stone Walls available NOW!! >>2018-08-30Painting the stone walls2018-08-28 by DavidJust a single picture today... of the progress on the samurai walls!Very happy with how well they came out after some quick drybrushing and washing.In case anybody wants to duplicate this rock effect, here is my recipe:Matt black undercoatMedium grey paint (Adeptus Battlegrey) everywhere except crevicesMedium beige drybrush (Rakarth Flesh)Light grey drybrush (Astronomican Grey)Brown wash (Agrax Earthshade) on about every fifth rockDark skin wash (Ogryn Flesh) on about every tenth rockTiny bit of green wash (Biel-Tan Green) just along the bottom edge, at the bottom of every other rock.Very light white drybrush to finish.Sounds like a lot of work, but actually is very quick to get through, and gives a great realistic randomness to the stones.
Saxon Dog (David Imrie) is one of the premier miniature painters in the World. Davic has own line of Scottish knight and warriors. These among the best sculpts available. Here is his latest techique for faces.Painting Flesh in Dave's own words.I use the Panzer Ace flesh range annd have down for many years, but recently I hanged how I apply it. I mix the shadows flesh with base flesh 50/50 for the first colour. Then I use the base flesh on its own then Highlight flesh into the Base flesh. Lastly I take amount of Highlight flesh and to a very thin line (thin Layer of paint) on the raised areas of the face. All are applied as thin layers of paint. I a tiny amount of black in the base flesh and highlight flesh and wash the bottom area of the face for an unshaven look.Panzer Ace paint .
Yes I know.. "not another video on painting flesh". To me it is a never ending quest to get it right. There nothing like screwing up a painted figure with crappy paint job. Hope there tip or two that will help paint flesh.
Bas de Rue Zentihal paint methodSo I tried something different today. After zenithal priming, I used a mix of Tamiya white and Deck tan to airbrush all the white on these French infantry. It went on very smooth and opaque. And in a fraction of the time it would take brushpainting white. I did 36 figures in 1,5 hours. The rest of the colours I’ll block in with a brush. Front Rank 28mm French reinforcement set.
I always basecoat all my 28mm figures with a black undercoat and use ‘Abaddon Black’ from Games Workshop.The rest of the paints I use in this tutorial, are all triads from the Wargames Foundry’s ‘Standard’ and new ‘World War II’ paint sets. I always use a wet palette and my paints are diluted to a ‘milk like’ consistency and applied in very thin layers, I always begin with the skin and for this I use the ‘Expert Flesh’ set, which has 6 pots of paint. I start with base coating all flesh parts with the shade colour ‘A’. The next crucial part (which can be left out) is getting the eyes as right as possible. I know we are painting 28mm and people have different views on this but if you practice, it can give a miniature its character. I do not use pure white for the eyes but apply EF Shade ‘F’ in the eye socket. I then carefully paint the pupil with a dark brown colour.Next I paint a thin line under the eye with EF Shade ‘D’. I then fill in the rest of the face using EF Shade ‘C’. The cheekbones are then lightened
The excellent painted figure are by Mihail Miroshnik. I asked him what paints did he use for the flesh tone. His reply Vallejo Panzer Aces Shadow flesh, highlighted by adding a flesh base.
19. When painting metal I feather in the highlight. Feathering is when you gently spay the bristles of the brush open as you paint. Takes practice and a light touch.20. The metal is now given a wash of brown and black paint. Just enough to darken the metal in the bottom parts.21. The paints I use to make the metal wash.22. The helmet and weapon are highlighted by adding Citadel Runefang silver to the Ironbreaker and then feather or blend it up to the very top metal parts.23. The figure is now dressed by giving him an off white hood, Valejo desert yellow with Citadel Ulthan White ( grey white) added in tiny amounts working up by adding more as I highlight.The red combo.The off white combo.The Brown and leather are all mixes of these paints in various amounts. This helps it all tie together. I wash all the brown with agrax before highlighting.The face all done.
9. I now add Panzer Ace Highlight flesh in small amounts continually working up to just the very top highlights.10. This is a slow process. Think subtle!11. The face taking shape.13. This image shows where the highlights should be. I have added a little black to the base flesh and run a wash over the top lip and chin, this gives the impression of unshaved. The lip is highlighted with Foundry terracotta B then some base flesh is added to lighten it. I now run some of the skin highlight mix along the edge of the top lip.14. All the paints used on the face and hair.15. The hair is painted Brown and chin strap added.16. A close up of the face at this stage.17. Paints used on hair. Brown with Black then add Brown to highlight.18.The helmet is painted a mid silver. Used Ironbreaker from Citadel.
That the information is off of Saxon Dog face book page from July 2018. David is one of my favorite Miniature Painter. I wish I could come close to his painting one day. All photos and text of David's from his face book page. Enjoy the work and instruction of a master painter1. Clean up the figure and attach the weapon by drilling out the holes in the hands. Claymore Castings are very clean figures.2. File down the bottom of the metal base so the figure doesn't look to high off the ground when based up.3. Brush away any dust. The figure is ready for paint.4. Spray the figure grey. Think light coats of paint is best. Keep the can moving across the figure as you spray.5. New brushes.6. I wash the figure in a 50/50 mix of Nuln and Agrax. I have 50 year old eyes and this helps bring out the detail. Thin layer and don't let the ink pool in the high places of the figure.7. Base flesh is a mix of Panzer Ace Base and Shadow colour. Just add enough Shadow to darken the base flesh. Think subtle.8. Now