Just a massive image dump from the weekend. A lot of cool varied tables! Enjoy!
Big night at the club, the first run out for my Russians and my first attempt at a scenario for WWII, I already had the name I just needed to fill in the blanks.Somewhere in the Ukraine late summer 1944 and a Jagdpanzer Elefant the new version of the Ferdinand is sitting in the middle of nowhere abandoned by its crew, an order has come to either secure the area or if not blow the beast up. The tank has already been spotted by the local Soviet forces and they have had orders to capture the machine intact. The Germans had an infantry platoon with 10 points of support, Dave chose a Pak 40, a medic, a Senior Leader and of course a demolition team. The Russians got 13 points due to the disparity in the forces and I chose an SU76, two MMG's and a pre-game barrage, my idea was to win the firefight and keep the Jerries away from the tank.The terrain was fairly open with the odd rough patch and a small farm with a couple of woods, the Elefant was put squarely in the middle and we diced for which side we would arrive f
Researching scenarios for Sharp Practice from the Gettysburg campaign, I came upon the stand made by the 45th NY during the retreat of XI Corps. Men from the regiment occupied buildings and backyards in the area of the Eagle Hotel and Christ Lutheran Church and fought to buy their comrades time to make it safely to Cemetery Ridge. This would make a great scenario for Sharp Practice. However, it would need a lot of buildings. Call me crazy, but I decided I would go for it. It’s going to be a long-term project, especially as I want to scratch-build as many of the buildings as possible. This is the area I want to model on the table. I decided to start with Baltimore Street, which is the big street leading to the West from the square. Fortunately, I found a historical photograph of the Southern side of the street: You can see the cupola of the Lutheran Church in the background. My main material for building the houses is plastic sheet. I also used textured sheets and windows from model railway suppliers.
Crooked Dice were kind enough to send me copies of the resin Hover Car they’re selling based on my design. They’re available on the Crooked Dice site here, and here for 16GBP each. Here’s a quick review of the sample vehicles I received and photographed. First I have to say these are lovely resin casts. They’re clean, have minimal flashing that’s easy to trim or file away and go together well. The parts are also very crisp, and capture all of the detail from the original 3D designs. Some minor changes have been made to improve the ease of casting – they are very subtle though and I only noticed them because I was comparing them to 3D prints of the original files. Each car consists of 7 separate parts. Three of them are new ‘jet exhaust’ pieces that Crooked Dice created for the vehicles. They fit into the underbody and the front vents and give the vehicle a solid base as well as a lovely flying look on the table. The remaining parts are the main body, a separ
Some what later than planned the customary pic of the Warfare loot...Reading seemed quieter than usual on Sunday, speaking to many of the traders it sounds like most people had done their shopping on the Saturday.It's been several months since my last show so had I had quite a list.Some extra walls for from Tablescape to build out the Haitian village, together with some grape vines to fill out the village. A couple of packs from Perry's Cape Wars - They need seem tweaks and adaptions they will make some useful additional to the Haitian loyalists and freed slaves.Meanwhile plenty of movement trays for Warlords of Erehwon.Annie at Bad Squiddo Games had kept back good Queen Liz, a great addition to the Elizabethan collection. She is protected by our three valiant ladies who will protect the Queen from the evil hordes or Spanish.Hopefully not a bad omen for the living but also some casualties from Colonel Bills, these will make some pin markers for Warlords of Erehwon.The shopping was a success less so the Battle
Hello! In today’s post I would like to present you a model of a supercomputer / workstation prepared by one of our artists. Terrain produced by Multiverse Gaming is made of HDF and thick model cardboard. Fitting the parts is quite good, assembly along with cleaning / grinding takes a little time. The model after minor conversions (added ground texture and pipes) received quite intense, striking colors. It will be great for every Fallout and Warhammer 40k table The key to painting intense colors on the terrains made of HDF is to correctly base them. In our studio we use quite a thickly airbrushed primer Vallejo Matt Black Surface Primer, which after 24 hours we spray Vallejo Grey Surface Primer. Commission painting services – email@example.com or Messenger.
Dave from the club is running a Iran/Iraq War-game at Fall In and needed a pontoon bridge. I volunteered to print one and you can see my first attempt was more abstract than I hoped. A little repair work on the printer and things were set right. The print files I'm using are from WOW Buildings and are for a WW2 Bailey bridge (part of WOWBuildings Market Garden set of files). Theres a file for the platform (which prints two decks) and pontoons, which I copied in the slicing program to print 3 at a time. I didn't like the look the mix of pontoons to platforms in the second picture, so printed both files again.This version looks a lot better and gives Dave and extra section if he ever needs it. The original file is scaled for 28mm some I ad to reduce it. The detail came out well but the railing are REALLY then and break easily. I snapped off a number of sections while painting up this bridge.A word on painting 3D prints. One of the downsides of 3D printing is the pr
"I love the smell of Laser Burnt MDF in the morning, it smells of gaming". Ok that's a pretty muddled paraphrasing of Col Kilgore but it is an accurate description of the scent in the Lair as I've been assembling a lot of Sarissa Precsision 28mm rail road kits.Sarissa has a large selection of rolling stock and the models are very fun to put together.*. The first picture shows the assembled Pannier Engine and freight cars set. The set is a great deal and I highly recommend it. I tossed in a 28mm Perry DAK officer figure for scale. If there are trains, then there must be some track, so I picked up a few track packs from Sarissa also. They are very simply to put together but one tip is to paint the rails and ties BEFORE assembling the tracks.The completed train - sorry the picture is a little dark A dark grey, rust streaked engine and flat car.The rest of the rolling stock. Why am I building a 28mm railroad? Well you may see it in an upcoming LWTV episode....* Usually Sari
It is the Halloween weekend and I thought that I had seen a horror-scenario for Black Seas, but I am unable to find it. Anyhow, there is Dreadfleet, of which I used the battle mat from the boxed set already with Cruel Seas. Dreadfleet was a bit of a surprise back in 2011, when it […]
I've been looking to add a church to my Gotham layout for awhile but have had zero luck finding one I liked. Most model railway church are clapboard country chapels. The more gothic models tend to be huge and expensive.I was at the the model railway swap meet two weeks ago and this church was on for $3 (!!!). I fixed a bad glue job (tower was not plumb with building even though this is basically a snap-tite kit???) and added some paint, a wash, and dull coated.I think it does a good job of conveying the impression of a church (buttresses, lancet windows, bell tower) without taking up a huge amount of space on the table or my shelves. I think this will work in either a urban setting or as an isolated country church of some vintage.
TheTerrainTutor teaches us how he makes urban combat tables for miniature games!
I believe that my Ender 3 is printing better than it ever has and I am printing terrain as much as I can.At the same time, I’d love to have several painted buildings for a small town when playing fantasy … Continue reading →
I picked up a few things from Fenris Games back in June or July, and the first pieces are finally getting completed and onto the gaming table! Two Viking Runestones from Fenris Games. Click for larger. These are “Viking Runestones 2” from Fenris, cast in pale grey resin. Each is about 2″ tall. The carved runes on the front are very finely detailed; I wouldn’t be surprised if they had been laser engraved on something (thin acrylic?) and that was then embedded in putty or something to make up the rest of the stone. Runestones, rear view. 28mm Warlord ECW figure for scale. Click for larger. I’ve got a few other bits and pieces from Fenris in progress. All of their stuff is really high quality, their range is huge, and shipping was fast. Highly recommended!
At the model train swap meet last weekend, I picked up a couple of cheap buildings. My favourite was this apartment building (there are never enough places for people to live (or eat!) in model towns). This building was $6 built. All I did was paint, wash, and dull coat. All it needs now are maybe a few decals and some blacked out glass installed in the windows (I seem to run out of clear plastic packaging). The building would be the perfect home for the United Clown Party (posed above).I have a different version of this building already (a rooming house). It wasn't until I was working on the newer model that I noticed that the person who built the roaming house model reversed the upper floors to put the fire escape on the front (thereby blocking the front doors?). Obviously the escape on the back makes much more sense.Up next: More Zeds, a church and maybe some gangsters. And then even more zombies.
I wasn't happy with my array of gaming mats for use with Mortal Gods - they are all too woody, green and more like Northern Europe. So I decided to experiment and try making my own. The parameters were to be: looks Mediterranean and is easily portable for use on club nights. The finished product - WIP pics below I went with a 3 x 4 size, using a cotton based material as a base which was pinned into place with drawing pins (to stop curling) with a few feet extra on each side. The first step was to make the base layer using caulk which I scraped thinly across the whole surface. Once this was done a few small patches of gravel were made, as was a small track sized road from one side to the other - I used some ballast as the road surface and some kitty litter along the edges. These were all pressed into the soft caulk and left to dry overnight. I chose a dark coffee coloured caulk to use, so it would be a good base colour The next day another, thinner, layer of caulk was applied - as it dried