My last update on these was April 2018. They've essentially sat in a box untouched until now. Other projects take priority and terrain often falls by the wayside. Frustratingly not a lot needed doing to complete them - the Red Planet BASE! and some additional highlights on some of the trees for variety.I did my Red Planet BASE! highlights, I also did all the Genestealer Aberrants, Hive Guard, Rippers, Termagants, Tyranid Warrior and Redemptor Dreadnought while I was at it - you see that's the advantage of the Big Build programme, it allows you to get them ready for basing.I then did the extra highlights of the mid-yellow [lemon] and then threw on some white for super hot streaks of combustion. Hopefully they'll fit in with the other set I've done previously, although the very reason for the extra highlights is variety so not sure how 'fitting in' is supposed to manifest itself as I've expressly painted them different...Wraithbone chips next and then a quick varnish. I actually have once of those cheap spray-c
My Dutch village is now complete. I’ll pack it away soon, to wait till I’ve painted up an enemy force from May ’40 Miniature’s forthcoming Fallschirmjäger (German paratroops) Kickstarter for my 1940 Dutch to fight. The final addition was to make the canal. I simply sprayed some textured sandpaper dark green, then edged the banks with sand and flock. Simple and effective, especially with the addition of some random bits of fencing and a couple of boats. The back gardens on the left are a Sarissa Precision product, which just happened to match the dimensions of two of my cardboard row houses. The only thing I had to adapt was to draw a little more crazy-paving to align the garden paths with the the back-doors of each house. By the way, some people have asked why I use 1/72 scale buildings with 28mm figures. The answer is that I prefer my houses to have a small footprint, as they then don’t dominate the table as much. In any case, wargamers usually play with underscaled trees, ri
Aah the Sanctum Imperalis… It's taken a while to get the opportunity to take pictures but I needed some to add to last season's hobby review.It's a big piece and so it's a struggle to fit it into my homemade light box but I got there in the end.As you may recall this was a project not without challenges, in particular the 'bold' choice of full verdigris on buttresses, supports and skirting boards.The red glass lighting also suffered from a lack of contrast that I repeated on my Ravenwing Dark Shroud - sometimes Tamiya Clear Red X-27 is too good.But the colour choices were made to stretch me, to do something more challenging than just the weathered brassy bronze and as you can see the Ferron Proxima background finally gives it the context it needed.On the full red/orange background the verdigris provides the ideal framework to break up the monotony of the red rockcrete walls.With the cream interior adding another dimension.I can't wait to eventually see these used on my Realm of Battle board, although that cou
Some time ago I picked up some MDF terrain from Chris Sheppard. He makes his own MDF terrain and from time to time has these extra pieces that he sells. I don’t know if he intended it to but all of these actually stake together. The large four level piece is actually on large building... Continue Reading →
Having a go at making 3D walls for Necromunda: Underhive. This is very much a work-in-progress. I still need to make another 14 pillar/post/end-bits. Need to lightly sand down the tops a bit and do a second coat of black. The sides will all be grey and eventually I'll get to mucking them up and adding graphiti and wanted posters and such. I was going to say "weathering", but are the walls in the deep, dark Underhive ever actually exposed to "Weather"...?Coming Soon to Tim's Miniature Wargaming Blog:Progress updates on these walls...? Space Rats....?Who knows? Got a lot of proverbial irons in the fire at the moment!
With almost all of my buildings on largish scenic bases I find it a challenge to make up some of the maps associated with Chain of Command campaigns, my recent experience of Operation Martlet led me to ordering up two 'stand alone' buildings with small bases to add to my Normandy collection. I chose Charlie Foxtrot models as I know Colin and have gotten 97% of my stuff from him so far, the kits are easy to build and lend themselves to upgrading and personal touches.I have watched Lardy TV and Richard Clarke building and converting a Dark Ops blacksmiths, beautiful but too much effort for me, however I decided to try my had at plastering. Normally I simply paint and brush in some fine sand which works very well. So off I trotted to B&Q or some such hell hole (for me) for a couple of tester paints, a small trowel and a tube of filler. Imagine how perplexed I was when I saw many testers not in pots but in a sealed unit with a sponge on the end, duh. I did manage thankfully to find some tins, so I was set up.
Looking north(down river) and from the west bank.Things are progressing. I have concentrated on the western bank of the river and focused on flora and dwellings.The perspective on the landscape is better with trees and buildings in place. The wooded areas and hedges are glued down with slow setting Bostik.Some 2mm troops on this base - Dutch Marines face off local militiaThe village is place on and can be flocked in. This will make any potential transportation easier. I might take this to a show or two in the future but I am not certain about that yet.I enjoyed this work. It was fun to do and every little of extra detail encourages more work.Nice shot looking down river
Two years ago now, I made a series of ships designed to be used in RPGs particularly Akhamet. These ships served me for years now. I now have more ship designs I want to build, which I will with the experience I gained from building these three guys. Here is a short guide on how to create such ships for you: 1 - The bodies were made of corrugated cardboard with the corrugations at 90' angle. This makes them light but sturdy. Make sure to keep the amount of glue to a minimum to avoid warping. 2 - Once the body is done and dry, cover the top and sides with Popsicle sticks. This will strengthen the body. Now here you can be as loose or tight with the planking as you want. Again easy on the glue to avoid warping, not only for the body but also for the sticks themselves. A little stick warping will make it look more "realistic". 3 - For the mast, use a chopstick you will stick into the center of the ship. Stick it through wood - having drilled a hole then force it through the cardboard. Since these boats are
Club night again and Wings of War. A long time ago I mucked about with the bases and added magnets and glued everything together, this was a mistake as I now need a large, deep box to hold the stands and it is a hassle finding what I want in the box, I have around 50 models. The last time I had them out I dropped the box so had to spend an evening sorting and gluing everything before packing up last night. I digress, for a change I decided to let the Armee de l'Air take to the skies against the Luftstreitkräfte, I also wanted the Germans to use their legendary triplanes and Albatross scouts.My flight.Simon's flight.Rob's flight.There were three of us and Simon and I were the Germans, we had one triplane and two Albatross each, a mixture of DIII's and DVa's our job was to prevent the French bombing a target behind our lines. Rob, the Frenchie, had a Spad and two Breguet 14's, if a plane was shot down it was resurrected in the next turn and started on the table edge, the French would not know how successful the
I have been researching how to bring this important campaign to the table top for a while now. That activity has paid off. I originally planned to build the entire river in 1/2400 which would have been a mammoth task however, I have now identified five important stretches:1.The Mouth/Sheerness2. Musselbank3. Gillingham Reach and St Mary's Creek4. The Chatham Dockyard stretch5. Chatham to Rochester BridgeThe river complete from The Dutch in the Medway- P.G. RogersAction of some sort or another took place at each. Studying old maps, contemporary sketches and very importantly, Google Maps gave me a good feel for what I needed to achieve in recreating the terrain.My first challenge - to build the Chatham stretch to look like thisAs per usual, my plan was more in my head than on paper. I bought some 6mm and 9mm thick MDF from the DIY store and decided to do a 2' x 4' test board which is what the piece features. I bought but dismissed various materials to represent the land , the most hopeful being 25mm thick polys
Terrain is an important part of any game, and I am always keen to see, what interesting pieces can be added to a gamers collection. The Dominion of Sigmar was introduced earlier this year, as fantasy counterpart to the very well done Sectors already available for Warhammer 40,000. Among those temples and shrines in the […]
If you’re going to recreate a Dutch village in miniature, what do you just have to have to make it feel really Dutch? A windmill, of course! This weekend I added a windmill to the village I showed in my last posting. This time, instead of the cardboard buildings that I’ve use so far, I built a MDF kit by 4Ground. What a joy this kit was to put together. The design is very cleverly designed to form the rather complex shape of the windmill. But, as with other 4Ground kits I’ve built, it all fitted perfectly. I personalised the model slightly, adding brick paper to the ground floor, and painting some parts of the sails and the turning beams. I also painted a small heraldic device where the vanes meet in the centre, as I’ve seen on real windmills in the Netherlands. I was worried the model might end up too big for my buildings, but I was happy with the end effect. After all, windmills are big in real life! Interestingly, having a windmill in my model village is a poignant reminder of m
Crooked Dice Design Studio have licensed our latest vehicle release, the Cyberpunk Hover Car. If you’ve reached us via their Colony 87 Kickstarter, the rest of our Sci Fi Vehicle collection is available on DriveThruRPG as well. These are a series of 28mm scale vehicles that are designed for easy printing using home FDM printers for your Sci Fi wargame tabletop.
Club night and summer continues to be rubbish, warm enough but grey and still lots of rainclouds and as we say north of Hadrians Wall "the nights are fair drawing in". No matter, Rob served up another Muskets and Tomahawks game and this time I went out on a limb and took charge of a bunch of eco friendly First Nations, no only kidding, a large blood curling war band of Red Indians hell bent on murder and mayhem. The scenario was simple, there were a couple of bunches of civilians roaming aimlessly in the woods and we had to either capture them (Rob) or kill them (me).I found myself up against Simon and his Irregulars, in keeping with my character I decided simply to bludgeon my way forward, this plan was scuppered in that the Yanks managed to leap across the table at a great rate of knots and give the civvies protection before we got close. The second turn also seemed to favour the Yankees although Rob assured me we had activation cards somewhere in the deck.Nonetheless I did manage to threaten Simon's right
To be added to the Warcry terrain, I got myself the Azyrite Townscape. I had my eyes on the kit for a while now, as it is generic set of ruins and as such can be used for multiple setups. The Azyrite Townscape is part of the Dominion of Sigmar terrain range and accompanied by […]