The famous Vince and I sat down and talked paint, turns out he was recording the whole time. Cheeky dog. Enjoy!Catch me on the Road!
I've been working on some more terrain items, this time specifically for playing 6mm wargames using the To the Strongest! rules. My game mat is divided into a 3" grid so when I'm building terrain elements for use with these rules I try to make them fit comfortable inside those dimensions or multiples thereof. My current set of hills is rather limited, especially now that I have expanded my games surface to 3x4', so I have started to build a set of extra hills that allow for a bit more variety.The following pictures illustrate the technique I have used and show some of the variety of hills I have managed to create using it.I cut slices of cork bark with a model saw and lays then along one edge of the base to make a line of cliffs. Then I built up the hill behind the cliffs using layers of corrugated cardboard cut to fit. I filled any gaps with little offcuts of the card until I had the rough shape of the hill. The whole thing was glued together with lashings of PVA glue and then left overnight to dry
The painting of Steve's Tower was very simple. The first step (which I have no pictures of) was to cover the entire piece in a primer made of 50% cheap craft paint and 50% Modge Podge matte finish. This provides both a nice black primer to cover up the pink and white EPS and also hardens the foam a bit to make the piece a bit more durable. I got this idea form the Jeremy's Black Magic Craft Youtube channel and am using it for almost all of my terrain related projects.Because the surface is so uneven, I do the priming in two steps - a thinned down version is first applied and allowed to dry and then a full strength one is applied over the top. The definition of thinned down is a dip my brush in the 50/50 mixture and then dip it again in some water before painting it on. I used a 1" brush as priming terrain isn't exactly precision work.Once the primer has been given 24 hours to dry, the next step is to paint the whole thing a medium grey, dry brush a light grey and black wash.This
A few months ago, I made a custom 3 level Wizards Tower for my friend Steve Mac to use on his D&D Streaming Channel "Castlemac". He wanted to surprise his players so I've held off until now posting about the build. It's a pretty simple design and was a lot of fun to build. This post will cover the construction. I cheated a bit and purchased some styrofoam 12" diameter circles, that were 1" think. I've always struggled cutting precise circles in EPS and wanted the base of each level to be as uniform as possible. Steve's uses a 1" grid so one was added using a dull pencil. Once the grid was drawn in, I marked off 4 points in 90 degree increments which was very helpful later on in the project. Then the somewhat tedious part of the project started - brick work. The first course of bricks are 2"x1"x1" rectangles. I went with larger "base bricks as the matches the floor level and broke up the monotony of the exterior a bit. These were attached with
In amongst everything else I further procrastinated by getting the TT Combat Gothic Ruins primed. I had sprayed it black with some cheap £1 store matt black. Then I mixed some black masonry paint with PVA, some of my finest sand and some powdered plaster/wall filler.This gave me some texture to the flat walls. Red Oxide zenithal base coat was next and then stippling/drybrushing with Vermillion art acrylic.Shading and verdigris areas to pick out next, hopefully less drama than the Sanctum as I'm far less precious about this.
I cannot believe how much this colour choice is challenging me. Luckily after a plaintive appeal on twitter [as well as feedback here] I had enough reassurance from these pictures to keep going.I mean I still had reservations but folk liked them and ultimately the decision has been made what direction these were going in, that's inevitable now. It was just actually doing it, like magnets sharing the same poles opposing each other.And instead of taking the big piece to this stage I actually took the medium piece to the next stage - adding shading and stains ot all the rivets and edges with the result I am much happier with where this is at now.Although the turquoise is still very much in your face that shading on the right hand side is working so much better than the non-shaded left in the pic below.These three sections, plus the front and the two sections from the small corner piece [more on that later] were shaded in one sitting, so now I have a measure of how long that will take.I added staining to all the
OK, we're up to the final two stages of this miniature forestry adventure - making the tree canopies and scenicing the bases. A word of warning - both these processes are extremely messy and YOU WILL burn yourself on the glue gun. Sometimes sacrifices must be made the the Miniature Wargaming gods. The first step is to cut out the underbase for the tree canopies. I like to use black foam core as its cheap, durable and the black hides any gaps from the attached foam material. Just trace the shape of each tree base onto the foam core and the cut it out with a new facto knife blade. For some added elevation I attached another layer of foam core. In actual practice this didn't really do anything so I would skip that step.With the canopy bases cut out the next step is the attache the foam. I strongly serge you get a cheap cake pan as pictured for any flocking exercises. The pan really controls the mess and helps me reused the flock that shakes off. I ended
Hi All,No rest for the wicked, so hobby time has had to take the back burner again this month. I did promise I'd share how I did my latest banner, so here goes.If you are like me and have lots of ideas but not the talent to execute them, making banners can be a frustrating task. As I was learning to use GIMP I realized that I was pretty good at cutting and pasting in the software and that I could build my banners from the elements that Games Workshop gave us to make banners in the Army books or White Dwarf Articles.So I picked a banner from the Undead Army book.You probably recognize this as one of the Skeleton banners presented in the Undead Army book p32I did a lot of this first in Photoshop, I couldn't get it to look right, so I returned to GIMP. Turns out it was the final stages printing it out that were the issue, not Photoshop. So the main thing I did was get rid of the design, I just wanted the banner shape. I made a copy of the banner then erased the design and then painted in white to get a blank can
With this one I've officialy run out of Bolt Action vehicles.Finally!Because since like a few months I've been doing anything but painting infantry models:working on vehicles, buildings, upgrading game table...So now, without Chaffee on the desk, there are no more excuses for not painting infantry. Perspective of having whole army 100% painted has never been closer:the distance is about 25 infantry models...As for the model itself I've been taking pictures while working on it, so in case of getting satisfying result I could repeat it later.The tank is Warlord Games' resin + metal piece.Must say it's nothing spectacular but otoh I've seen much worse casts from this manufacturer. Cleaning it and assembling didn't take much time, the barrel and commander got paperclip pins for more reliable bond - it's gaming model after all.Here's the assembled piece.The green color ain't proper basecoat yet, I've just been spraying excess paint on it.Basecoating. Actually - preshading.I got nice result using this trick on the
Annoyingly I was beginning to stall on this the raw bronze matched the red walls so well with the cream interior complimenting it all and I was going to throw all that turquoise into the mix?! But before all of that I needed to gild the doors a little so they were a little more brassy/polished bronze. At least that was all I'd hoped it would be.I'd already gone full verdigris on the roof top. There had been an original plan to do it rusted steel but if I chickened out of weathering the buttresses [obviously I didn't when you look closely] I'd have explored the effect in the roof at least. Unfortunately, even with my Photoshop mock-up and the reality in my hand I started to doubt this route even more. It was probably what prompted me to build some new figures! The roof is fully highlighted but I'll be putting some shadow washes on as I've been observing some patina'd overhead power cables at some of the train stations on my commute and black shading appears in some areas. Ideally that should have capture
The results are in and it seems everything old is new again.I have two criteria for terrain making efforts - looks, durability and ease of application. Both methods passed the looks category with a slight edge to the non-pre-mixed version. The flexible pre-mix on the right can look a little smoothed over. Since both will be covered 95% by ground foam those minot smooth spots will be covered up.On Durability the pre-mixed flexible grout won hands down. How do I test durability - I take the piece , turn 90 degrees and whack the side on the my workbench fairly hard. The side with the unmixed grout just flaked off while the flexible pre-mix didn't show a mark. I ended up redoing the unmixed by adding in a 50/50 mic of matte medium and water rather than just water - while the matte medium shows through it now passes the "whack-test"On ease of application their both about the same so the winner is my tried and true pre-mixed flexible tile grout. The unmixed stuff is still u
A few months ago, I made a large number of tree stands that work great with 28mm figures but not so well with 15mm and 6mm figures. Since I've got a large convention game coming up this summer - I really HAD TO HAVE a solution. At least that's what I've told my wife as she rolls hers eyes at me (again). A long time ago, Ernie Baker made some really nice tree stands for me that have removable canopies as you can see in the first picture.The removable canopies make it easy to move troops through the forrest and give a really nice look on the table top. The tree trunks are nails.My wargaming club also uses a similar style of tree bases which you can see here.I made a similar set of tree bases for Curt during Painting Challenge VIII but now need some for my personal collection. I've also stumble across new (to me) type of material call "PALIGHT" and wanted to test it out for the bases. Palight is a foam version of PVC - think foam core with a flexible plastic outer shell rather than
If you follow the 40kaddict Facebook group you'll have seen some of these pics already. The plan was always to do full-on verdigris on the uprights, buttresses and external skirting boards, despite adding some highlights to the bronze. First was a wash of Army painter Hawk Turquoise.Then another wash of my turquoise craft acrylic, followed by another drybrush of turquoise/white mix and I think it matches quite well my Matt Black Hero of the Imperium statue.But putting it next to the big piece I was wracked with doubt about losing the bronze. It's such a consistent effect and will not stand out too much on the battlefield - tonal backdrop that does not detract from the miniatures.But I realised I could Photoshop it to see the end-result and with the small piece rotated I could copy+paste elements across.I also got to conceptualise the red glass finials, although didn't add the patina in the door relief. Asking in the group got a mixed response but I think the majority said go for it. The patina is my th
The big piece needed its grunge shading, it's come over all Tudor dwelling like.Welcome to the grotty grotto.I just wish I could leave things at this stage......but you know I can't and I'll be all over this with more paint...2nd highlights, not sure if I've lost or gained with this? Definitely lost some of that oil paint effect :( but it was a bit OTTI think I've got a mixture of both + and -. I just sponged on an even lighter shade.Still some details to pick out and some shade applied in the recesses.All the internal bronze 'skirting boards' need a sponging of Balthasar Gold. Ultimately the net gain or loss doesn't really matter. I'll do my process and what the end result is will suffice so it's best not worrying about it really.Strong Tone wash in all the creases on the medium piece, as well as 2nd highlights.At least there's consistency across the pieces. Don't know whether those two panel things on the right hand side are electrical switch boxes with wires/cabling going inside or just structural features
I was a little disappointed with how my highlights had gone in my previous post so I decided to bring back the redness with a glaze of Bloodletter, followed by some purple shadow washes and I'm much happier.Here's a before and after, although colour accuracy is far from perfect you can see it's definitely changed and more importantly for the better!But despite the desire to make these buildings fit the Red Planet BASE! of Ferron Proxima so it wouldn't be too distracting in battle I had decided to flip that vision for the interiors.We paint the insides of our homes and offices independently of the exterior anyway and bone [Magnolia] seemed like the obvious choice. This way from the outside it blends in with the board but from a different angle viewing the inside you get a whole different effect.I scruffily stippled on the paitn as I will be adding a lot of shading to make the dilapidated interior I have visualised in my head.Aeverything has been shaded with my Burnt Umber art acrylic. It's a funny paint with t