It's finally happened, after painting miniatures "professionally" for 10 years, I'll be teaching a class in my home state of Wisconsin. October 19th at Gathering Games in New Richmond I'll be running a one day beginners class. I'm excited, I'm always excited to teach but this is special for the reasons mentioned :) Calling all northern troops, let's jam! Visit Samlenzartwork.bigcartel.com to get a seat!
On to basing up the Rippers I used some cheap filler to blend the ground in a bit more.Then I got some thin slate and crushed it up to make more of a fractured crust they'll burst through - more represetative of their tunneling rules.Now, the red stuff is some Martian Ironearth that i thought I could just paint on and get the fractured earth effect. But the paint had started to dry out and it went on more like peanut butter. I really didn't think it would crackle, so I panicked and blobbed on the PVA and slate. It obviously did crack and even pulled apart the filler as it shrank! But the slate worked out OK too.I may even give some of my older Ripper bases a little paint touch up when I get round to painting these - the older ones look a little tired and it wouldn't take too much effort just to bring them up to current standards, although I'm sure I'll live to regret considering it...I final coat of PVA and sand and they're built Wait a minute, look what's just snuck up as well. I couldn't just leave the
I'm continuing my Big Build theme and finally plucked up the courage to do my next three Ripper bases in the style of the Forgeworld ones. As you can see they got built and are considerably bigger and more representative than my first press-mold prototype.I had been struggling to work out how to build these up, then I just started gluing chunks of hardboard to a 40mm base with the press-mold Rippers coming out of the base [plus one Warrior face pushing through the ground].All in I think there are 12 Rippers on the base, 4 of which are the plastic ones. The next base I tried to use some of my Ripper side pieces glued to a vertical strut but it looked really odd and I ended up with the three heads running up the spine of the strut to try and hide it. Hopefully it won't be noticeable that those two halves are different.I'll need to blend them in with a bit of ground material as they burst through the dirt. I think there are 14 on this base.The last one, I think there are 15 or 16 on this, including 4 plast
I'm continuing my Big Build theme and finally plucked up the courage to do my next three Ripper bases in the style of the Forgeworld ones. As you can see they got built and are considerably bigger and more representative than my first press-mold prototype.I had been struggling to work out how to build these up, then I just started gluing chunks of hardboard to a 40mm base with the press-mold Rippers coming out of the base [plus one Warrior face pushing through the ground].All in I think there are 12 Rippers on the base, 4 of which are the plastic ones. The next base I tried to use some of my Ripper side pieces glued to a vertical strut but it looked really odd and I ended up with the three heads running up the spin of the strut to try and hide it. Hopefully it won't be noticeable that those two halves are different.I'll need to blend them in with a bit of ground material as they birst through the dirt. I think there are 14 on this base.The last one, I think there are 15 or 16 on this, including 4 plasti
Well, 700 posts. For a small time, no revenue hobby blog with predominately one contributor and the occasional post from his friends, that is quite an accomplishment IMO. I know at times it picks up and goes down. I've had years with over 100 posts. I've had others with less than 50. I have written some posts that seemed to set the 40k world on fire (the Petition) and many more that haven't. I've hobbied, been opinionated, started a podcast, and just generally been passionate about wargames.I want to thank you all for checking out my little corner of the internet for all those years (since Dec 2008) and posts.As a thank you, here is my guide to making 40k memes.IF you don't follow us on Facebook, you should, because that is where all my meme magic happens. SEPULCHRE OF HEROES FACEBOOK PAGEMagic like thisThat is probably the most successful meme I've made to date. If I had to say why, it is because it is something we all can relate to laid over a reference we all understand.&
With the frames and base foam installation complete the next step is carving the foam to look less "wedding cakey" (yes, that is a real term) and apply the ground texture. Being pretty much an idiot, I forgot to take pictures of carving the foam but I just used a very sharp knife to smooth out the slopes and as you can see in the first pictures added some exposed rock face with some pink foam. Once that was down a layer of sculptamold was applied to fill in any big seems and smooth out any transitions.I do focus of figure stability so there are still layers but they're just not as a prevalent as some of my earlier hill attempts.Once the scultpamold has set, it's time to cover the whole thing with my "secret" terrain tool - pre-mixed tile grout (and pre-colored!).I do mix in a little PVA glue which really helps with hardness and makes the surface very durable. Application is dead simple - put on a pair of surgical gloves, grab a handful out of the can and plop it down. Now hears t
The 21st video in the painting with the pro series and this time, it's sculpting! A big thanks to the indomitable Uncle Atom, the man does good work!
I confess I'm back in avoidance mode at the moment, but I'm also going with the flow. The urge to build came over me and manifested as finally making 2 more Tyranid Warriors into Hive Guard so I can finally field a brood of 6. I originally did this conversion way back when and I've had enough parts to do these 2 for ages, although not all the same bits as last time. For these I'm using the blind Genestealer heads and I've some Tyrant Guard bits to create the armoured chest instead of the previous Termagant armour plates. I'd been delaying the kitbash because I was convinced one of the warriors was too good to be converted and I was sure I had a more damaged donor Warrior torso and legs somewhere. When I came to 'dock' the tails they were a little too short and predictably having docked them I immediately discovered the damaged torso was in exactly the same 3"x2" bits box. Anyway, the damaged one on the left was duly docked and I'll be trying to reattach the tail of the un-shown decent Warrior.Poses and basin
Had a fun time conversing with the one and only Vince Venturella about all the small things. Check out the interview and subscribe as well, Vince is doing good work with his channel :)
I really like the 2x2 terrain panels I built a few months ago but they do suffer form one issue - their umm flatish-ness. I wanted to add some height variations and decided to build some modular hill sections. The height of the hills will be four inches (3 inches from the top of the terrain as standard height of each panel is 1 inch). The first step in construction was to make the sloped panels, since I'm making three sections, I cut 3, 5 inch x 24 inch pieces of plywood and traced out the dimensions of the slope which is 4 inches flat in from each end and a diagonal line connecting the two points over the remaining linear 16 inches (4+4+16=24). The three panels were then taped together and I ran them through my band saw. And just like that I've now got 6 perfectly matched side panels. Well perfectly matched after bit of sanding as band saws are never really precise. At least the way I use them.....I then cut the rest of the side pieces out. Here's the full
Now that the Sanctum Imperialis is complete I should probably be putting this ruin kit in that big pile of projects that were fun at the time but really too much to do just at the moment.Well I thought there was no harm in laying down some brown where the verdigris would go, I'm not even bothering with Warplock Bronze, it just isn't going to be seen. Wasn't sure about the crenalated battlement being coppery...?I did add a bit of gold into the mix so there was some metallics, not entirely sure I should have bothered with it on the windows - it's just going to be a pain to do but nevermind.And inside just a quick coat of cream paint.Ready for the burnt umber next......unless I see sense and leave this and go back to something smaller! ;)
By the time you read this the Sanctum Imperialis will be complete. All the finials have been painted,as well as the buttons and lanterns.Buttons and screens have been done internally too.With just some select Tamiya Clear to be added after varnishing. I tried to keep the button colour limited to warm colours, just didn't want yet another set of colours, it's already garish.And, having bust a gut to meet the weekend deadline for the store painting challenge it turned out it is next weekend afterall! Still, having that deadline pushed me to finish so I don't mind.Now what...?
This is becoming somewhat of a saga now. I've got all the stains to do and the shading but staining all these rivets is incredibly tedious and despite it solving my issues with the verdigris my motivation is through the floor - I think I need to do a separate 'where's my head @' post to get that all off my chest/mindBut I persevered and used my Vallejo Sepia wash and as you can see on the left, where I thinned it the wash split exactly like Seraphim Sepia. However, I was washing it again with black so I was not disheartened, in fact the result is great.I did a fair few panels before I stopped thinning it with water, it's a bit harder to work it into the crevices without but I eventually learned my lesson.There are a lot of rivets and areas that needed shading.But the sepia followed by Army Painter Dark Tone managed to bring it all back down to an acceptable level.The big ruin was a daunting prospect though and it took a fair bit of motivation to tackle all those rivets.Question: do I paint the scrolls either
The famous Vince and I sat down and talked paint, turns out he was recording the whole time. Cheeky dog. Enjoy!Catch me on the Road!
I've been working on some more terrain items, this time specifically for playing 6mm wargames using the To the Strongest! rules. My game mat is divided into a 3" grid so when I'm building terrain elements for use with these rules I try to make them fit comfortable inside those dimensions or multiples thereof. My current set of hills is rather limited, especially now that I have expanded my games surface to 3x4', so I have started to build a set of extra hills that allow for a bit more variety.The following pictures illustrate the technique I have used and show some of the variety of hills I have managed to create using it.I cut slices of cork bark with a model saw and lays then along one edge of the base to make a line of cliffs. Then I built up the hill behind the cliffs using layers of corrugated cardboard cut to fit. I filled any gaps with little offcuts of the card until I had the rough shape of the hill. The whole thing was glued together with lashings of PVA glue and then left overnight to dry