It may not look like it, but I had a tidy up in the Loft Full Of Lead. I have been determined to get rid of some old stuff, but I am a terrible hoarder. I did make some progress and manged to fill a couple of boxes of crap to go to the skip. Last week, I even took some boxes of old terrain up to my games club, they have a nice large room to keeping terrain and the old ruins I had would at least get used now and then. There is still loads more clearing out to do and it will likely take a while yet…
It’s not often that I write an article on terrain but Modblokz tabletop terrain has successfully caught my eye. The products are massive customisation and offer a great amount of depth. Supposedly, this even goes [...] The post Modblokz: Making Terrain Easy appeared first on Tabletop Games UK.
Recently the husband and wife team at Gamecows contacted me to ask that I link their new beginners guide to Kill Team on my site. I didn’t like that my answer was that I don’t play any GW games or update my blog so I changed it. I’m going to link their article. I’m sure they worked hard at it and I remember how hard I worked to promote this blog. What little juice this site has left I hope it helps them. And who knows, maybe the very act of posting here again will make me re-think abandoning this blog. Warhammer 40k Kill Team Beginner Guide: Build a Viable Kill Team for Under $50 The post Interested in Kill Team appeared first on The General's Tent.
My first wargame playthrough in my new house!I wanted to start with something fairly small, but new to me, so I chose to play All or Nothing: The Fight for Fort Mercer - October 22, 1777, a bonus game that came with an issue of Against the Odds Magazine (issue 49, specifically).The battle depicted in this game (the Battle of Red Bank) where a Hessian force under Colonel Donlop attempted to take Ft Mercer. Outnumbered three to one, the Americans inflicted pretty heavily casualties, and ended up holding the fort until the Hessians retreated. Let's see how the game plays! I will be playing this one solo.At the core of this game, activation is determined by flipping from a standard deck of cards, with the nines and tens removed. Black cards allow Colonial troops to activate in better ways, red cards allow the Hessians to do so. Higher number cards allow for more activations. If the Joker is drawn, the turn ends, unless one side hasn't activated yet, in which case the turn ends
As I sit here by a pool with a Gin and Tonic, I have plenty of time to read and ponder what is next on the huge wargaming backlog. As we have been enjoying Warhammer 40K again and bought into Kill Team, I have been sorting through old models to see what can be used in Kill Team. The Tyranids were an easy Kill Team to muster, they did not take much work to get on the table, only needing a handful of models really helps. To give myself plenty of options, I updated a number of models so I can try out a proper swarm team at some stage. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I just rebased them and splashed on some ink. I can now field lots to Termagants or a horde of Hormagaunts with a single Tyranid Warrior to keep them in check. Or I can try the nine Genestealer team… So now I have more than enough Tyranids for Kill Team, I am wondering how long it would take to update all of my old models an make a small 40K sized army. These are all the updated models, but there are a few more boxes that I would nee
After a lavish splattering of ink, the copter is finished and ready to give artillery spotting to the British forces.
One of the many problems with eBay is that I keep using it to buy crap. Luckily this Transformers Ark only cost a couple of quid, when I say a couple of quid, I actually mean £1.90 which was too good to turn down really. I am going to strip out all of the interior, cover all the holes from the inside and then glue it so it does not transform any more. As I now have a new compressor for my airbrush, this will be one of my test pieces to practice on before I attempt painting anything important.
As previously posted, I went for plain German grey. I still have to decide if I am going to add some transfers.
For my second Imperial Knight, magnetising the Chainsword/Power Glove options was a little bit more complicated then the ranged weapon options on the first Knight. The first step was to get all the bits laid out so I could work out where to make the magnetised joint and what spacers were required for the magnets. I had to do plenty of trimming and drilling on the main arm joint to take a 6mm diameter magnet. Another magnet was added in the Chainsword join on top of some plasticard spacer. This should work well when the whole thing is painted and fitted together.
This was a simple olive paintjob really as I wanted it to be an American Mech. I may yet add a white star transfer or two.
This Reaper Bones Clockwork Dragon has been in a state of being nearly finished for ages. I really wanted to get it done so the next time my Rackham Tir-Na-Bor Dwarfs get an outing, they would have some Dragon support. I thought my Dwarf army would like a mechanical dragon, so that if they ever run in to a live one, they have some brass and iron to send against it.
My Tyranid Kill Team got a another outing, this time against Mr Steinbergs Marines. I decided to drop the Lictor this time and use more Hormagaunts and Termagants to see if a horde of eleven models would be effective. At least it is possible to leave a cheap four poiunt model on an objective and not worry about wasting a model. Also, the multi-wound Tyranid Warriors are rather good, they stay at full effectiveness long enough to get up close to the enemy. I had originally thought a Lictor would be a key model in a Tyranid Kill Team, but now I am thinking that two Tyranid Warriors with the rest being Termagants, Hormagaunts and Genestealers are the best way forward. But I do still have to try an all Genestealer Kill Team, nine Genestealers, nasty…
For its purpose the Victory 2.0 A-case works wonderfully. It provides a somewhat innovative method of taking your miniature armies from one place to another. It's a light-weight, attractive approach that provides peace of mind. All for for very little additional effort compared to more conventional cases. [...] The post A-Case Victory 2.0 – Transporting Miniatures in Style appeared first on Tabletop Games UK.
There are several ways to build the industrial terrain models that I have been working on as there are lots of common pieces between the various individual models. This means that I can mix up a few bits and make what is essentially a new kit. In this case, by using the support structure from the Crosswalk Tower and some round levels, I have ended up with what is effectively a pringle-less tower. Without relying on the tube, the tower can be any height, so I started with a single level and twin level model.
Jim suggested I do an MDF dice tower, not something that I use in games, but I thought I would give it a go. Obviously I designed it to match my industrial towers and it works!